Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Stiks-n-Strings on September 17, 2009, 11:34:00 PM
-
I'll be getting my new striker slapstick in Nov. and am gonna go with woodies.
Why or why not go with tapered shafts?
I would like POC and plan on a 4 point footing of osage or something similar and want to set up as heavy an arrow as I can possibly shoot out of this bow. It will be 45 to 47# at 28@ so with my draw of 28.5 " it will be a little more I figure. What do you guys suggest.
-
Tapered shafts are more forgiving and penetrate better but usually cost a little more. Depending upon the cost I would get the tapered shafts.
-
I use tapered spruce with my longbow, just can't beat a wood arrow. You can't go wrong with a footed cedar arrow, they just look really good.
-
Strker Stinger loves woodies, tapered and straight.
-
I've shot both for a lot of years and can't really decipher much difference in the way they fly, though theoretically, the tapered shafts recover from paradox a bit more quicky. Also, because there should be somewhat less flex in the shaft on impact, they should penetrate better. However, I haven't noticed a difference in penetration on deer size game, probably because most times, I get passthroughs. I do my own tapering and tend to shoot tapered shafts more now.
Depending on the diameter shaft, tapering the nock end will reduce the weight of a 11/32 shaft by about 20 grains. Likewise, footing it will add about 20 grains to the front. More for 23/64 shafts. So, you can get slightly higher FOC by tapering, slightly more overall weight with a parallel shaft. Another way to add weight to the shaft is to soak it in Watco or some other oil. That generally adds about 50 grains to 11/32 shafts. Good luck.
-
I'd go with tapered ash: Plenty heavy, tough, and fly great. Beautiful grain you can stain
F-Manny
-
I use compressed/tapered/cocobolofooted real tuff-straigten out quick good FOC
-
Parallel shafts are a product of the machine age. Before mass production, practically all shafts were tapered. Many were barrel tapered, for the best performance. That's my preference, since I used to manufacture them. :)
Dean Torges has endorsed them; you can check it out on his web site, http://www.bowyersedge.com/
-
i think the quicker recovery is the main advantage to the tapered shaft and thats always a good thing.Especially on close shots.I think they clear the shelf and strike plate a little cleaner as well with less fletching contact.Fletching tends to get less wear in my experience with tapered shafts.Tapered is a good option and barrel tapered is even better IMO.
I am shooting some parellel sitka spruce right now and they perform very well.I shoot all 3 styles.Since the barrel tapered and tapered cost more the last few dozen shafts I have bought have been parrellel.
If i was gonna be a perfectionist and wanted the best wood arrow I would get an Elite arrows barrel tapered style.
-
I would go with a tapered shaft for the above mentioned reasons. I have tapered my own on many occassions with a one inch thumb plane. Set plane to make thinnest cut possible and experiment with an old shaft. I believe most produced shafts are tapered the last 9 to 10 inches on the nock end.I started 12" back and made a series of passes side by side,move 2" toward the nock end and plane off the high spots,repeat. Finnish with sand paper and the shaft chucked in a cordless drill. not as hard as it sounds with a good plane.