Hello All,
I am planning to use the single bevels this year for the first time and am working the edge on them right now... As I sharpen, I find the tip and about a 1/2" down the blade (forgive my ignorance of the exact parts of the broadheads) to the ferrel (the plates welded onto the main blade) do not take the edge as well as the main blade. It seems there is a small bit of main blade protruding from that ferrel plate that takes a bit of edge but does not really sharpen because the ferrel is blunt. The main blades take a nice edge. So, basically I have two questions:
1. Should I take the rough edge down to that thicker ferrel part and make a larger edge? OR is that just used to punch through more than cut?
2. I never really get 'shaving' but I do test the blades on a rubber band and fingernail. In both cases the blade tests VERY sharp... is it OK that it doesn't 'shave'?
Thanks gents!
I am curious too, I just bought some of these and having a devil of a time getting them hair popping sharp as they say. I am certain it is operator error but any suggestions would be appreciated.
Kevin
the laminated section is a beast to sharpen. You need to get it sharp. Something like a KME Knife Sharpener or a Lansky after you have hit it with a file to cut your bevel. Give Sharpster (Ron) at KME. He can talk you through it.
BobW
I would hope that guys hunting with single bevels this year, learn to get them plenty sharp.
Not much advantage if they aren't.
QuoteOriginally posted by George D. Stout:
I would hope that guys hunting with single bevels this year, learn to get them plenty sharp.
Not much advantage if they aren't.
Of course!! That's why I am asking for help on getting these things right before I use them on deer and turkeys.
Erik,
Give me a call when you have a few minutes. I'll help you get them tuned.
Ron
800 561-4339
Good for you mrpenguin, I hope everyone else has that sense of urgency. 8^).
I had some of those last year, before I bought the KME, and had a heck of a time getting them sharp. I ended up giving them a small bevel on the opposite side, making them double bevels, but sharp.
Sharpster,
I just picked up your KME knife kit (regular stones) and I'm having a devil of a time getting through that "laminated" section on the tip as well. I took a file to a couple to see if I could "hog" a bit of it off before mounting in the sharpener but that is easier said than done when you are left handed shooting a left-hand bevel ;) Probably need to give you a call too.
Mallardstacker,
Yea, I could see where that would be challenging. :) Useing a file to hog the tips down is a very good idea with any laminated tip broadheads. You don't have to get them sharp with the file, just take some metal off so that you're not asking the stone to do more than it was designed to do.
Absolutely, give me a call if you need some help,
Ron
Ron,
Your comments to Mallardstacker are very useful to me : ) I filed quite a bit off the tips last night to make an edge, and also changed the angle from 40ish (factory) to 30ish. They are getting stupid sharp on the blade, but need more off the tip. I am certain it will change the weight of the bh, so I will need to weigh them too... That said, I still think these are great bh's!
I hunted with these heads- last year and was pleased. The KME is the ticket but save your self some work and put file on the tip end. It has to be thinned down some to ever get the angle from but to tip with the KME.
Onehair,
Thanks for the report! I'm excited to get them out there next week. Out of curiosity, you and Owlgrowler mentioned putting a slight opposing bevel on the tip of the blade. Will this negatively affect the rotation of the blade and basically negate the advantage of a single bevel blade? What was your experience like?
I have only about a millimeter of lip left on the opposing side and could very easily turn that into an edge.
Kinda funny how putting an opposing edge on that small area would take minute, but continuing to file it down on the larger single side will take much longer....
I know I'm going to get bashed for this..... but sorry, I gotta be a wise guy here:
and the absolute precision chamfer of a stone point? Don't get too paranoid about the whole single bevel thing.... Double bevel broadheads have been killing stuff for thousands of years...
Single bevel is a great improvement and allows even more advantage for the "what goes wrong" situation. It is not the only way.
another comment: if the weight difference due to some extra filing is throwing off your shooting, you are WAY out of the average shooter's league here...
relax, have fun, shoot your best. If you worry too much, you are defeating what you can do....
George...there is no advantage to ANY head if its dull besides the rotation of the head does not lie in its sharpness but the presence of the single bevel itself. I too had a hard time getting the Eclipse head to take a good edge. I had a long phone conversation with Blake (Eclipse Owner) over this very issue. He told me at this point in time that it would be too expensive to re-tool to deal with the laminated tip. I would like to see him bump up the grains of his head and get rid of the lamination like Grizzly did. It is because of this very issue that I went to the Abowyer heads. I am waiting for my KME to show-up to put the deadly edge on them.
I only shot two deer with them, but did not notice the "S" cut on either entrance or exit hole, didn't hit any major bones, so I can't report on their bone-splitting capabilities. After studying the whole single bevel thing a bit more, I've come to realize it probably works best, (rotation), with broadheads that are shaped more like the Grizzlies, long and lean, with a straight edge, not like the shield edge on the Eclipse.
I just sharpend a Abowyer Brown Bear like Sharpster said. All I can say is :scared:
Got no hair left on my arm but boy are they sharp !! Thanks Ron Got go sharpen more up