i just got some 160 snuffers from a fellow tradganger that had some 40 grain glue in inserts installed. problem is they are not even close to spinning true.... :eek:
can i unglue them and start from scratch? also, what should i use to reglue assuming i can??
i should mention that it looks like he used epoxy.
gaff :thumbsup:
yes, you can reglue them .
yea you can reglue them if you can get em out to reglue. i would use a hot melt of what ever kind you like and start spining them slow till you get em where you want them
Epoxy will break down with heat just like hot melt will.
Take out the inserts and start over.
Guy
Yes, heat em up and reglue. Hot melt is good but you have to be quick. If you have time, use a 2-part epoxy that way you can position them and spin them then let them dry. Either way will work.
I have had great results using PowerBond to glue the heads onto the inserts. It gives you all kind of time to get them set and spinning true, but then you have to let them setup and cure for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight before using them.
I have had hotmelt turn loose inside hard to pull targets. Makes retrieving your expensive broadhead very difficult.
I have never had PowerBond turn loose on me.
The great thing about PowerBond is it's heat reversible, so it's really easy to take the heads back off if you need to.
GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot
thanks guys, good info.. BUT, i do have another question for ya...
whats the best way to get the head to spin true? and once i do that if set it down to dry, will it just settle and go out of alignmebt again???
I just push mine on and then spin them. Once they are true then I stand them up point down. Check This is where hot melt is better because it will harden immediately. If your head is out of line then reheat and do over. With an epoxy, if they happen to come out of tune then you just waited 8 hours. For the record, I can't recall the last time one came out of tune while drying.
Another tip is to use the longer inserts instead of the short ones. They will line up alot better.
I built this spin tester this year.I put a good, straight field point in the arrow and make a reference mark on the tape in front of the point.I turn the arrow so the blade is horizantal and align with the dot.I then turn it 90 degrees so that the blade is vertical,and check alignment there.If it lines up with the dot,both ways,it's perfect.
I used to spin mine but in checking them on this tester,I wasn't as good as I thought.
You don't have to make one this fancy.It could be 2 "V" blocks made of wood or metal angle with notches in it etc..then a block in front of the point for a reference mark.My roller distance is 8" apart.I don't know how critical that is but you don't want the shaft to bow when you turn it.
My last ones,I used a paste epoxy called Ultra Smooth.It gets fairly hard in 3 hours and full cure in 24.I glued up 6 broadheads,let them sit for 1 1/2 hours,at which time the glue was firm but still moveable.I then aligned them and set them aside. (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/SpinTester.jpg)
I use jb weld. It also gives you a reasonable amount of working time.
JimB
I made one just like yours and thats the main reason I have been able to shoot big old Snuffers for the last 15yrs. and get 100% pass thrus. Much more accurate that spinning on your finger. Just watch the dot on the point plate heat and push in the right direction for perfect flight!
Chuck,I wish I had been smart enough to make one 15 years ago.I've never had such consistent good arrow flight from my broadhead arrows.
I made one with a board and four nails. Works fine. I just put the point against the wall and pic a spot to use as an alignment.
heat the insert and not the broadhead so you don't change the temper of the blade.