I have a 58" Widow recurve. 60# @ 28". I draw to 28". I have always shot carbon arrows and they have flown beautifully. But the allure of wood has really gotten my attention. A few months ago I shot a wooden arrow out of it. Well I was amazed at how much quieter it made the bow and it was only about 65 grains heavier. I am unable to identify the type wood it is but it is heavier than cedar and spruce. Fast forward to present. I have read that widow recurves require a stiffer spine of say 10-15#'s that normal. Like 70-75# spine for 60#bows. Well I purchased some sitka spruce shafts that were 70-75# and they were 29 1/2 and 28 1/2 inches long. I am shooting 125 grain tip and they are showing weak bigtime. So much that when bare shafting they are breaking when I shoot them into the target. I cant shorten them anymore than I already have. I have never had a problem shooting carbon bareshaft therefore I dont think it is form. But being new to wooden arrows can someone please give me some insight to we to go from here. Thanks
Try fletching one of those shafts and shooting it. I would say that you are in the right area spine wise. Wood doesn't like angular hits and I've never bare-shfted a wood arrow. Never saw the need for it. If you want heavier weight than the sitka, try doulas fir. Wood is VERY acommodating just fletch a couple and try it.
Black Widows are normally cut well past center which really ups their spine requirement. You can build the side plate out to center (my recommendation) or go to a heavier spine shaft. With a 29" BOP arrow and 3/16" past center, I would think you'll need 80 lb spine or more. Try building the side plate out to center and shooting one of your remaining spruce arrows. It should look a lot better.
Moe is right about woods not liking to hit the target sideways. That is one reason I much prefer paper tuning.
Moebow I actually did try fletching them and although they did fly better they still had significant fish tailing.
Fletcher, I think i will try to build out the sight window. Any ideas on the best way to do so. Right now I have a leather side plate with a tooth pick as a pressure point and seal skin for a rug. It doesnt look like I have a great deal of room for a rest if I go out much farther.
Pick up some velcro dots and stick on one or two of the loop pieces. The fuzzy velcro makes an OK rest or side plate. Yeah, Widows don't have a lot of extra shelf. The lack of shelf space may limit how far you can go, but moving the plate just a little bit back toward center should help quite a bit. If this works for you, move the velcro or glue some leather under the side plate.
I have a 60# TF that like 90# spine. You can order these or us 3/8 Ramin dowels. They spine 85+. Wood arrows from a Widow is the way to go for quiet.
It's about the centershot of the Widows. Build out the rest to accomodate what you have, or just go to a heavier (stiffer) spine.
First you are absloutely correct to bare shaft spine. Second, widows generally require much heavier spine for a variety of reasons. What arrow are you currently using? If 340/2216 you will need 80-85# spine. If 300/2219 you will need 110-115 POC or 100-105 Sure woods. I got a tuning set of 45-130# POC from Rogue RIver years ago. The new owners don't get them that heavy so I have switched to tapered Surewood from Dave Doran at archery past. I have a bow that shoots 2219s with 125 tips and I use 110-115 Tapered surewood with 160 grain tips. The arrows finish out @780 grains so they appear a smidgen stiffer as the increased mass absorbs more energy.
Most sources of POC are not accurately spined, so you will need to spine test your own. With Dave Dorans Surewoods they will all come right on the money.
Mike
Brian, my testing suggests you might need 90 or 95# spine. Widows do need a lot. I don't have any 90's left, but I have several dozen barrel-tapered poplar 95's in 29" shaft length (28 1/4" finished). PM if you're interested.
wooden arrows always tend to quieten down a bow and yes, they require heavier spine. after all, carbon and aluminum are hollow tubes and will transmit/generate more sound/noise. wood is a solid, porous, sound absorbing material for the biggest part.
years ago when wood arrows reigned, the standard was measured at 26" between centers for spine testing a wooden shaft. draw length standard for poundage rating was/is 28" (unless specified differently by the mfgr)
if you go to a 28" CTC measurment of spine from 26" CTC, it changes. that's why there's a difference in spine ratings of wood/alum/carbon...basically.
I've got a Habu that acts similar. It's 53lbs. and I shoot woodies spined at 80lbs. I believe.
When I shot woodies, I shot a 80-85lb spine and that did the trick. They required something that stiff
Thanks to all for all the help. I am pumped about using wood and cant wait to getum flyin straight. Thanks again.
At 51#@29 I shoot 60-65 cedars 31" long 125gr up front and I draw 29". At 60 I think 70-75 or 75-80 would work. My Widow is MAII 62" long.