I use a Lansky and get my heads sharp enough to shave without touching the skin. It's a great system for me but I wanted to add file sharpening for touch ups in the field.
I've watched the videos in the how to section but I can not get an edge much sharper than a butter knife. I'm not even to a point yet where I feel there is a need to remove the wire edge for final sharpening.
I'm using an 8" mill file that is brand new. Bought it last night. Do I have the wrong file? I painted the edge with a marker and used the file like in the videos. Pretty, shiny steel results but the edge is pitiful.
Any advice or even better a fellow Arkansas that uses a file that can give me some hands on training?
Single Cut mill bastard....lines go only one way across the file
The lines only go one way. At least it is the right kind of file. Must be the way I'm using it.
It's all about keeping the angle through the process. Patience....it takes patience. Cut with the edge on one side, then turn over and cut into the edge, using the same angle. I use the ferrule for a guide (lightly touching it) and you can get a burr very quickly.
Pac, I just e-mailed you a short(?) article I wrote a while back on file sharpening. It's kinda wordy, but I hope it helps. There is also a couple of sharpening how-to clips in that forum and Tom Mussatto has a good one on his web page, if I can find the address.
George is right about the angle,its important to keep it constant on both sides. Also you can put some chalk on your file so it don't load up with metal that your takeing off. A file is all Fred Bear uesd....it just takes some time to get it down.
don't press hard with the file. Soft and easy does it.
ChuckC
I added a diamond card to my "in the field" head touch up stuff. They are only the size of a credit card and will get that edge back. I even use it right before going to stropping with leather. Just let the weight of the card do the work.
I used to have the same problem until Dean Torges showed me how it's done.
You might be using too much pressure. The last few strokes on either side should basically be just the weight of the file as pressure. It doesn't take much.
Jerry
I also use a lansky, have since I started...I also carry the system in the field with me as most of my hunts are backpack style hunts.
I've longed for cutting a few more ounces by leaving that hole system at home and havin a quick touch up system in the field, maybe a pair of ceramic sticks at my finish angle...sure would be nice!
I could never use a file...Have seen some fantastic file sharpeners at work even had a couple TRY and teach me..ya no cigar...lanksy is just to perfect in every way.
For my field kit I carry the medium and extra fine for touchups...usually can get by with just he extra fine ceramic....if I shoot one I'll have to use the medium first lightly.
Funny, I can't get anything sharp with the Lansky, but can do the heads fairly well with a file. I can do a head with a file in less than 5 minutes, but I can work a head for 20 minutes with the Lansky and it ends up more dull than when I started.
QuoteOriginally posted by Stinger:
Funny, I can't get anything sharp with the Lansky, but can do the heads fairly well with a file. I can do a head with a file in less than 5 minutes, but I can work a head for 20 minutes with the Lansky and it ends up more dull than when I started.
Looks like we are in the same boat with the Lansky.
I tried the file thing a couple of nights ago and it worked out pretty dang good but it might have been beginners luck. I didn't really put any pressure on it other than the weight of the file but it was taking the marker off so I figured it was working.
Have you watched "Castaway"? You know the scene where Tom hanks is trying to build a fire for the 1st time and just can't quit get it? That's where I am with sharpening with a file. I made this clip in hopes that someone will see it and say, "Well there's your problem right there."
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/th_100_1357.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/?action=view¤t=100_1357.flv)
I don't have much experienc but you might have better luck if you clamp the broadhead in a vise or attach the file to a table.This will take some of the possibility of inconsistency away.Again I am not speaking from vast experience here just spitballin.Bill
Some folks that have tried to help said they were having difficulties with a Lansky. I made this today to see if I could help them out with this method. I edited it from 15 minuets to 8 minutes but it should get the idea across.
Part 1 (5 min)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/th_lanskeypt1.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/?action=view¤t=lanskeypt1.flv)
Part 2 (3 min)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/th_laneskypt2.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/?action=view¤t=laneskypt2.flv)
You're doing it in your lap...and the head or file is not stable. Any pressure from your file hand causes the head to move away. It's curling all right.
Go to a stair railing, or a fence, or a table.
Hold the head on the edge of the table..run the file on it so the head won't move. It's as simple as that. Once the head is stable you'll see that edge come to a little foil pretty quick.
Strop on your jeans, or a piece of cardboard gently, until that foil falls off...back and forth till it just breaks loose. STOP!
Pac... I watched your video and here's my take on it.
As Ray said, support the hand that holds the broadhead. I usually lay mine on my right (for a right hander like you) thigh/knee.
I can adjust the blade angle easily and let the knuckles of the file hand brush along my thigh so it holds a consistent angle.
You are keeping your wrist straight with the file and that's good.
If you are getting a burr then you are really where you want to be. You just need to remove the burr.
That can be accomplished by draw filing or making a few light strokes on a ceramic stick or fine stone.
I carry a small crock stick in my field sharpening kit that's always with me when hunting.
As soon as you get the burr removed, do like Ray said and STOP.
Don't get discouraged, you are real close!!
Whoo-hooo!!!! :jumper: I finally got it to shave hair. Holding it stable against my computer desk was a big help. But dang it's going to be heavy to pack around with me in the woods.
I didn't have a ceramic stick but I did have a tungsten welding rod. I finished the edge with that and bingo.
I was expecting to get the blade hair shaving sharp with just the file. Have to look up draw filing to see what that is and give it a try on another head.
Anyone need a lop sided broadhead for shooting around corners?
Thanks for the Lansky video. I use a Smith's sharpening system (basically just like a Lansky) and learned a lot from watching you. I have to use a steeper angle (25 degrees) due to the stone hitting the ferrule, but using your sequence really helped.
"Well there's your problem right there."
I totally agree with Ray and Charlie; I would add that you should not be filing twice on each side - but only once on each side.
Think about it. :)
I have been sharpening zwickeys for decades; and I can get them shaving sharp in a few minutes (although sometimes it take an hour!!) :banghead:
boy we do that lansky system almost EXACTLY the same LOL!
I dont ever use the fine, I skip right to the extra fine and I finish up the same way.
I will add, I start with a extra course diamond. I think the stone handle is a light purple color. It REALLY knocks the time down on getting the angle to the dangle on a new head. SO I buy the cheap set of 3 stones...non diamond type..then add the diamond course and the extra fine...and use all but the fine.
And like you I'd love to find a way to be able to touch up a head in the field without destroying my angles..or the head itself LOL!
I always had a tough time sharpening two blade broadheads with a file because of an inconsistent angle until I ran into Blake Fisher of Eclipse Broadheads at a PBS gathering in San Antonio a few years back. He sells a tool called an "ARROW GRABBER" which is a piece of plastic shaped like an arrow with an arrowhead with a grove in it that prevents the broadhead from moving while using the file. If you use bleeders it has a slot for them so they don't have to be removed. For me it made stabilizing the broadhead and therefore sharpening them, a lot easier so I bought a couple of them, one for my archery room and the other for my truck.
Pac,
A filed edge will kill, but it ain't what you would call shaving sharp. I carry a medium grip diamond stone along with my file. Three, maybe four strokes on a side after filing is really all it takes to complete the edge. I don't use the file again unless I've nicked the edge.
I prefer a diamond hone to a stone or even a ceramic stick because you don't need any kind of lubricant and you can clean the hone on your jeans.
After last night's success I tried to sharpen another head about 15 minutes ago. I used Charlie's method of holding the head on top of my knee since I can't lug my computer desk with me in the woods.
I paid close attention to keeping my wrist straight and drug my knuckles across my thigh. It really worked great. 15 minutes later and Taataaaa. Shaving hair.
Thanks folks.
Outstanding! It took me awhile as well, but once I figured it out, I wondered why everyone didn't do it. I use the inside of my leather belt to remove the burr. What would we do without our Charley Lamb. Two thumbs up.
In the field, just use a log, a tree, a tree limb, your knee..there are all kinds of solid objects you can rest that head on.
That arrow grabber is great for double bevel heads.
I just do without it since I use single bevels and just run the flat side of the head across the file to remove the burr that's created by pulling the head across the file on the beveled side.
I spent a lot of years sharpening Zwickeys and Magnus 1's in the field...and my knee, or the side of my shoe tucked up under me were always available to keep the steady angle.
Glad you got it figured out. If you keep after it you will be able to get it surgical with little effort...just don't give up.
When the country breaks down as the economy fails and we all have to resort to being subsistence hunters and gatherers-being able to use a file in the field will pay big dividends.
Could mean the difference between your family eating well and having to become vegetarians.
How's that for a prediction? :thumbsup:
I had much the same experience as you. I could not get 2-blade heads sharp to save my life using a file or stone. I re-watched Charlie on the TG video and decided to give it another try. I am not sure what I did differently other than using lighter pressure but I can finally get them sharp enough to shave. I still need alot more experience because sometimes they sharpen up easily and sometimes it takes me quite a while(not consistent technique) but at least I feel like I can get them sharp if needed.
Pac - thanks for the vid on the Lansky. I'm going to try it tonight. I think my problem may have been not enough oil and pressing down to firmly.
I'm no expert, but I notice in your flick that when you file the broadhead, on each edge one side gets filed towards the centerline of the shaft, while (after you rotate the the arrow) the other side of that edge gets filed away from the centerline.
I always seem to roll up a burr on the backside of the edges when I stroke away from the center line. I can feel it with my fingernail as a lip.
Maybe turn the arrow around so the head is lying over your wrist instead of your knee for one side of each edge, so that all strokes are toward the center? See if that helps.
could someone tell me where i can see Charlie sharpening 2 blade heads on the TG video?
Two part video in the 'How To - Resources' forum, in the forums list. Here is a link to the post: http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000095
thanks ray!
I would suggest an even smaller file , maybe a six incher...It will have finer teeth. The next thing that would really help you is a fine quality knife steele (smooth no ridges). A few strokes with the file to true the edges and then go to the steele (get a guy at the butcher shop to teach you how to use the steele.) It will burnish the edge and compress the metal on the edge and you will be surprised how sharp they will be!
You could also get crock sticks and finish with them and light strokes! Other than that, it is trial and error and PRACTICE!
With a two blade head it is a snap to get them sharp like this. If you want to do even better use a polishing compound with a leather strop and you can put a mirror finish on the edge which will cut you if you look at it!
I will add that the arrowsheads will dull from just carrying them around. If you will use a steele properly on them at this point, you can touch them up without removing any metal. The steele just straightens the edge and it will be sharp again. Hope this helps.
Your file in the vidio is bigger than I use. Smaller files have smaller cutting teeth, and use light very light strokes!
I carry a duo fold diamond in the field for touch up. It's compact and easy and if the head is already sharp, it just takes a few strokes with the course and a few with the fine and your good too go.
We have the duo folds in stock.
Mike