I am ready to purchase my first recurve and have been researching for months. I currently hunt whitetail with a 70lb Mathews Drenalin Compound. I'm 6'2 250lbs with a 29in draw length.
I have pretty much decided on purchasing a Martin Hunter as there is something about the Martin bows that I like. The Hunter has a 62in length which would help with the draw, smooth even at my longer draw length, some of the shorter bows seem to have incredible stack.
My question is:
For basic all around hunting, majority being whitetail, what poundage would you choose?
45lb or 50lb?
I want to buy one bow get very familiar with it and not want to upgrade.
Many say 45lb is enough for Whitetail, some say 50lb is better. 50lb is the minimum for Moose and Bear in my province.
I am having a very very difficult time deciding and am searching for advice
45# or 50#???
Hope you can help
Your DL-
Is that an actual 29 or are you using a 29" cam on your bow?If you're using a 29" cam that means your dl is actually 28.
Just asking so the more knowledgable folks will know how to help you better,as it may affect some folks' answers.
You will not get the full 29" with the recurve. I would go with the 50# if you are reasonably fit. You are smart to not overbow yourself and form bad habits. IMO you can not buy a better bow than a martin hunter reguardless how much you pay. Good luck and keep us informed.
Jack
I have a 29in to 29.5in draw length.
Many of the short recurve bows that I pull back on stack terribly.
I work out and have healthy shoulders.
Will I enough shooting a 50#, or will it be a chore after 10 shots?
enjoy shooting...
brain fart
Tough call, but I would lean toward the 50# bow. It may seem like a chore at first, but if you're comfortably shooting 70# with wheels you should be able to handle it with practice. The lighter bow would normally be the way I would lean, but since you really want this bow to be your one and only, and you would need a 50# bow to be legal for other game, I would go that way.
Just be warned, very few of us got away with staying with one bow from the time we made the switch! ;) :D New bows are fun, and if you went with the 45# bow to start with you would have a built in excuse for a new one eventually! :thumbsup:
45# with your draw will be about 48-49#. Martins are great bows but are famous for being a bit heavier than thay are. I would find a scale take it to the bow and draw it to 29" and see what it says. I'll bet you it will be 50# or so close it wom't matter.
MS
First of all if you have shot a 70# recurve and can draw it comfortably, stick with it. I shoot 74# easily and plan to continue for many more years. You will just have to shoot at least 3x times per week to stay in shape. Byron Ferguson and Fred Bear are /were not large men and they handle/d 70# plus easily, Fred into his 70s. Second I recommend you shoot as many bows you can and find one YOU like. A good bow is like finding a mate, no two are the same. Third, martin hunter is a great place to start. I think the most important aspect of a bow is having it properly tuned. Byron Ferguson has a great video on doing it correctly. Forget spine charts, get yourself a setup that bare shaft tunes and you are 75% home. Lastly, I recommend you shoot a Dryad Orion at the earliest opportunity. Some bowyers offer a test drive program, and this is a great way to test some out if you cannot attend a shoot or expo where bowyers have test bows available. Lastly, don't get caught up trying to shoot target groups, once tuned spend the vast majority of your time roving/stump shooting- one arrow at a time.
Cheers
Mike
At 6'-2" and 250 pounds a 50lb bow should be a cake walk. I'm 5'-10" 195 and I can easily shoot 75 arrows without a hitch and I'm no icon of physical fitness.
At 6'-2" if you are coming to full draw I would expect every bit of a 30" draw out of you. I pull just short of 29" and shoot a 58" BW. For some reason I think 62" may be on the short side for you but I can't say for certain....but your fingers will if the finger pinch is bad enough.
BTW...just like Whip said...nobody gets away with one bow...nobody.
Just remember going to a 50lb bow is more than doubling the weight you are shooting now with your Mathews.With the Martin and your draw you will be pulling 55lbs or better if you buy a 50lb bow.Since you want one bow and need 50lbs to be legal sounds like you don't have much choice anyway.
tough call
QuoteYour DL-
Is that an actual 29 or are you using a 29" cam on your bow?If you're using a 29" cam that means your dl is actually 28.
Maybe for a while. Maybe for always....but it wasn't the case with me.
I shot a 70# compound, also....and my first trad bow was a 50#/64" Bear LB. I had no issues with it. I'm 6'1"/200#.
My first bow only made me want to try more. I went through several compounds to find the one I LOVED, also. In a short period of time, I went through two more LB's and one TD recurve before I found the one I suspect I'll be using when I hang it up. Good luck with your choice.
BTW....My DL with the compound was 29". I now draw 28-3/4" with my recurve. I have two sets of limbs, and draw 52#'s with the lighter set. I can easily shoot (after MONTHS of shooting it) 75-100 arrows in a session with little to no discomfort. My 58# limbs (at my DL) are a different story. I can shoot about 50 arrows per session, now, before I feel it afterwards. That's fine...and I'm sure I'll work into these, also.
Go to 3D shoots and shoot a LOT of bows (just ask.....we don't mind!). That's the only way to find the perfect bow FOR YOU.
Good luck...and welcome to the affliction. I sold all my compounds earlier this year.....and I wish I'd done it, sooner.
Jeff
If you like the Martin line of bows, why not go with the Hatfield takedown? You could start off with the 45# limbs to get comfortable with the new bow and then later on buy a set of 50# or 55# limbs to hunt Moose. The riser, grip would be the same so you wouldn't have problem switching between your light and heavy bows. I have this kind of set up with my Rose Oak recurve. I find myself going with my 48# limbs for turkey/small game and also late season whitetail when the temps drop and I am wearing more/heavier clothes. Good luck! Mike
As someone with a long draw length who used to own a Martin Hunter, here's my take: find a different bow. Not only are Martin recurves notorious for being heavier than marked, the Hunter, while being 62", stacks past about 28" of draw. I've shot 58" recurves that didn't stack as badly as a Martin Hunter.
I shoot a switch back, my all time favorite compound, but it collect dust most of the time now. I still like to shoot it, but it is not as much fun as the trad bows now that I am hooked. I shot it at 70 lb. with I think a 28" or maybe it is a 28.5" setting shooting off the string with release. I am 5'-10". I am drawing 28.5-29" on a curve and a little less on a LB, and I think my form is good. I don't doubt your 29" draw on a trad bow particularly if you are shooting with a loop.
I started with a Predator TD with 46 and 50 lb. limbs. I was on the 50's quick. I think you will be fine with the 50's. I would take a predator hunter over a Martin anytime. With in a month I had a 53# LB I was shooting. Now I have a 56" Mojo at 54#@ 28 drawing more like 29" and no stack. I am decent with the weight, but still gaining strength for the first couple shots to be smooth and easy. After the first couple I can shoot 50 no problem. I find when I shoot a lot it is the first warm up shots that are the hard ones.
There are a lot of bows with no stack out to 30" and on the short side. Don't settle for something that is longer than you want or stacks before 30".
I am skeptical of the whole shrinking DL when coming from a wheelie bow.. I actually seemed to magically gained about 1/2 inch!!! I think that with draw loops and depending what release one uses and how he anchors the compound...
I being 5'6" just have a hard time thinking he'd be only an inch longer in the draw...
...........and with a good efficient bow and reasonable weight arrow like 9-10 grains per pound of draw a 45 is plenty for deer at reasonable range. 50# is all you will ever need. All my bows I have had since I got back into to trad of 46-54# have had all I need to take deer as far as I can shoot well. My 54# Mojo smokes a 530 gr. arrow out to 30 yd. Up to that distance I don't even think about any real amount of arrow drop. I don't see where I ever would shoot even that far so I am set. As far as bigger stuff goes, I would have no hesitation to shoot a moose or elk with it at reasonable range with probably a little heavier arrow.
I use a loop, and release. My compound bow is marked and measure 29in draw length.
I am starting to think that I will be drawing a recurve at 30in.
So my new question is:
A 45lb Martin Hunter, 62in AMO
How bad will this thing stack at 30in?
They advertise smooth draw with no stack out to 30in.....?
I shot a compound with a 31" draw length for ten years.
The first time I shot a recurve, I thought, "this is what I've been looking for my whole life!" I still feel that way today with every shot after fifteen years. It may not be for everyone, but it touched something deep within me, and for my purposes and style, I think I have a superior hunting weapon...
My draw length is 29" with a trad bow... a two inch decrease from modern equipment.
Best wishes on your decision.
Daryl
QuoteI use a loop, and release. My compound bow is marked and measure 29in draw length.
I am starting to think that I will be drawing a recurve at 30in.
Utilizing a D-loop doesn't affect your DL. It only affects your anchor point(s), IF you're fitted, correctly.
I have never heard of a compound shooter switching to trad and lengthening his DL (initially or otherwise).....IF (again) he was properly fitted with his compound.
My compound set-up fits like a glove at 29in.
It is looking like I will need a 30in draw on a recurve, anything less and I can't get my shoulder back and arm straight.
I'm not an expert, but it is looking like I will need to draw between 29.75 to 30.25....
I would take Jason R.Wesbrocks advise. With a longer than average draw length 45# will do the trick but if the law states 50# for your quarry then 50# at your draw length it is.
Greg,
You might need that length but maybe not. Are you still going to use the release with the recurve? Fingers? Where do you anchor your fingers with the recurve?
At 6'2 255lbs, I'm almost exactly the same size but I've got really long arms and pull around 32". I've pulled back martin bows in the store but never shot one. Never noticed the stack but when not actually shooting sometimes you don't pay attention to that. I know Jason Westbrock has a pretty long draw and I'd listen to him.
Have you looked at the Martin Savanah bows? I think they are really well made and pull very smooth for me. But again, I've never shot one.
If you're a younger fella in pretty good shape the 50# at 28 inches shouldn't be much trouble at all. The first longbow I ever shot was 53# at 28 inches so about mid 60's at my draw and I shot it for two hours straight with no trouble. However, I will warn you that my first one I bought was 59# at 28 inches and started to stack at about 29 inches and in the end it led to a bout of short drawing/target panic that took years to overcome.
Find a bow with a weight that is comfortable to shoot for an hour or more and that pulls smoothly to a good inch or more PAST your normal anchor and you've got a good "fit" in my opinion. For me, that was a 66" heavily reflex deflexed longbow weighing 60# at 30 inches. My first bow was the same weight but 64" and less R/D. The extra 2" of bow length and more R/D really made my current bow smooth and easy to shoot.
QuoteMy compound set-up fits like a glove at 29in.
It is looking like I will need a 30in draw on a recurve,
I'm sorry. But, this just don't add up.
Either you're not anchoring correctly with your compound, or you're mistaken on your assertion (IMO). When these guys tell you your DL will probably SHORTEN, they're not making this stuff uo. It's a "more" than general rule.
I didn't read every single post on this thread but when I got to whips post thats what I was thinking too. 50#'s should be just fine. and take a good look in the classifieds. Should be a nice bow there for you,,JB
The best thing for you to do is buy a used bow in the 45# range, it's tough to beat a 70's vintage bear Grizzly or similar to get you started. The first bow I bought was a Martin Savannah longbow, it was 50# I learned in a hurry that I made a mistake and should have gone with a 45# bow, remember that the farther you draw it back the harder it gets, there is no let off on a recurve. That is why you should consider buying used and inexpensive then when you build up your muscles get what you want, or you may discover what many have, that those old Bears are as good or better than the new bows. Good luck.
50. You want to legally hunt those other animals right? I started with a 50 and actually jumped to a 60 for the same reason.(60# was the legal requirement for NH moose). Took a little work but now that bow feels like my 50 did. Any average, healthy male in America should be able to quickly adjust to a 50# bow.
I went from longbow to recurve to compound and back to longbow and recurve. My draw length with a compound was 30". With a recurve it's 28, and with a straight grip longbow it's closer to 27. Mount Sweetness, you need to shoot some bows and find out for yourself.
QuoteThey advertise smooth draw with no stack out to 30in.....?
Listen to JRW - they can advertise anything they want.
Most coming over from compound would be well served to start at 45 or even lower - regardless of what your cpd wght was. Much easier to learn good form and accuracy at a lower wght and move up. That same journey can take much longer or never going heavier.
The best thing to do is go to a trad bow shop or a shoot. Maybe find a bowyer in your area. Get measured with proper form by someone who knows what that is. Then you know what you should be drawing when it is done correctly. That is good to know. A good 45# used starter bow would be a great way to start out and figure out draw length and correct form.
I would find a 45 to 50# bow in the classifieds at a good price and buy that. Even if it is not exactly what you want. Shoot it for a while to determine if it is the weight,length that you need. You can sell it and get most if not all of your money back, and have a better idea of what you need in a trad bow. I agree also that maybe some of the Martin bows are heavier than marked the one I have for sale marked 55 feels like more. I dont have a scale to measure it but I also have a 53# widow that feels much lighter.
Good luck...Mike
as far as stacking and such the older recurves seem not to stack much....i have an old pearson hunter i got from a gentlemen on here. It is 58" i am 6'2" with a long draw...i can barely shoot full length shafts. the older bear recurves are good shooters (had an older bear grizzly at 55# and loved it) but my wife's newer bear grizzly 45# 58" stacks to way more than my 50# 58" pearson. best way to find what you want is to shoot around with several. some will stack like no tomorrow and some will be sooo smooth to draw to your full draw it will seem lighter.
Dave Bulla and all...Thanks for the advice
"pulls smoothly to a good inch or more PAST your normal anchor and you've got a good "fit" in my opinion"
this is what I was thinking and I haven't found that bow yet...no pro shops anywhere near me
I have a new 60" predator classic for sale 50lb @28", I draw 29 1/2" with no stacking at all. I also have a new set of extra limbs that are heavier if you are interested. Predator bows are very fast and very easy to shoot. If you are interest please let me know.
Thanks
Dirk
Long limbs are smooth limbs. Long risers and short limbs can be found in a 66" recurve and can stack at 29 or 30 inches. The Martin Hunter limbs are not much longer (if at all) than limbs on a 52" Kodiak Magnum.
Jason Westbrock is correct about the Hunter stacking at his draw. Look for a nice 58 to 62 inch recurve with medium riser and longer limbs.
bow suggestions?
I am chasing my tail...
How much $$$ you got? :goldtooth:
I just got a used Ben Pearson. My friend got it at a yard sale and gave it to me.It's 58" 45#@28", if you want to pay for the shipping I'll send it to to try for a week, month the hunting season or what ever you need! Hows that...
Sounds like a good deal...I will let you know, thanks!
I am heading over to Cabelas on the weekend to get my hands on a few and see how they fit. Would like to shoot a Martin Hunter, Predator Hunter a couple others as well as a longbow or two.
I wouldn't want to spend more than $600 max
Go try all you can. If you get a good idea of what you want hit the classifieds, for alot less than $600 you can get a real nice bow. But my offer is still there if you want to borrow a bow to try.
predator w/ 62" limbs ...smooth, accurate and sweet to shoot..... @ 45 or 50 # you can't go wrong and replacement/spare/light /heavy limbs are always available without sending the riser back
ben
Went to BassPro today, spent well over one hour shooting.
Shot 200 arrows from each of the following bows:
- Bear Super Kodiak 60in 50#
- Martin Hunter 62in 55#
I can handle 55lbs without a problem, I am more comfortable with the 50lber.
The Martin is supposed to be 2in longer than the Bear, layed side by side they are literally the exact same length....the Martin might have a 1/2in over the Bear.
Martin was smooth right through to 31in, Bear gave me no issues either at full draw but signs of stacking past.
Preferred the grip on the Bear, I was more accurate with the Bear, was able to aim and shoot naturally/instinctively with the Bear, and the Bear was much quieter..........
Martin was slightly faster but much much louder and it didn't feel as natural to point and shoot at the tilt that felt comfortable...
Just thought I'd pass that on, Bear Super Kodiak felt right in my hands, I'm no expert but I was happy with the way it shot.
One tip,
Don't count a store bow out just because it was loud or twangy unless they let you try to adjust the brace height. It can make a BIG difference. Also, I expect that both bows had endless loop strings on them. SOMETIMES a flemish string will shoot quieter. Sometimes a lot quieter but I think a lot of it is due to being more adjustable rather than actual design. That adjustment range allows you more freedom to find the "sweet spot". Also, make sure the store can provide you with properly matched arrows. If you were shooting the same arrows through both bows, the 5# difference might have been enough to make the arrows shoot good in one and not quite as good in the other. Tuning is everything and face it, most store bows are neither tuned by string length nor are the arrows they loan you always matched to the bow.
Did you try the Savannah or Montana longbows? One pet peeve of mine if you compare the build quality of the Martin to the Bear, look at the tip overlays. The Bears look like they were just slapped on and nobody finished shaping them. Big ol' clunky tips! However, they still shoot well and they are easy to shape yourself it it bothers you. Plus, the Bear (At least the Montana, not sure about the 'curves.) are quite a bit less expensive than the Martins. I still like the Savanah but it's about $400+ compared to $200 something for the Montana.
As for the length difference or non-difference I guess, the length of a recurve is measured along the curve of the limb starting at a nock groove all the way to the riser fade then in a straight line to the fade on the other limb and follow that limb to it's nock groove.
The design of the riser and amount of curve in the limbs can make two different length bows seem real similar. Or, two same length bows of different design seem different. The amount of tip sticking past the string groove can throw off your eye too but is totally irrelevant to the measured length. The big tips on the Bear might have made it seem longer to you.
Put out an APB to any tradganger close by your area maybe and get your hands on some different bows - maybe a bow shop close by has some trad.
I started out with wheels and had a 29 inch draw. Shooting the curve dropped me down a an inich and for some it will drop even more.
Just hard to give advice when thsi is a really hands on deal.
Can't go wrong witha marttin hunter though - the one I shot shot really well.
Good Luck!
J
Dave Bulla, thanks again for the great info, I am learning this as I go...
One thing is for sure though, I love the power behind these trad bows, I love being more involved physically in the arrow and the skill involved to shoot instinctively. Will make for a thrilling hunting season even if no meat in the freezer.
I want to get a bow within the next week or two, practice for a couple months and try hunting with it this fall. Yesterday was pretty much my first time ever shooting recurve, I was hitting the pie plate from 23 yards, 70% of the time, with practice I feel that I am capable.
I have be bombarded with so many recurve options that it is blowing my mind, I need to buy one that feels right to me and shoot.
Thanks again
Greg
Where are you located bud? If you went to basspro I assume you are within 2 hours of me. I can point you at a couple of proshops that have a little better selection for trad than basspro. And like most have already mentioned I shoot a 55lb recurve and the other day tried to pull back a 70# wheelie bow and just about blew a nut! IMO I would start with 55lbs for a guy of your size. Also as you just said, be prepared for no meat in the freezer for a while, it can be a really tough adjustment, at least it was for me, and I would have considered myself a seasoned hunter before shooting trad...
I'm in Essex Ontario, down near Windsor. BassPro in Auburn Hills Michigan is 50 minutes from me.
Looks like you are in Guelph, who has Trad bows around here?
"I am starting to think that I will be drawing a recurve at 30in."
After having met Greg recently, I wouldn't be surprised if he's pulling closer to 30". Good thing he's real friendly.
Congrats on the new bow purchase and getting into hunting with the recurve, Greg! It's addictive. No doubt you'll be ready this season. Keep it close with some tuned-up arrows.