Looking to see what glue guys are using to glue in Brass inserts? Brand name, type etc. Also curious as to how you prep the insert and shaft.
Have had an issue with them pulling out in targets..... Between myself and a few friends we have used a few different glues trying to find the fix. Still looking for a better glue.
Any advise, information and help is much appreciated.
Thank you,
Brock
JB Weld. (but you wont get it back out)
I clean the shaft with acetone and a wire brush, then glue them with JB weld (not the five minute stuff) I have yet to loose an insert since I started doing it this way!
Clean with acetone and use Devcon 2 ton epoxy also works well.
Super Glue!
I've had mixed results with Devcon epoxy, maybe should try JB Weld?
.243 gun brush to ruff up the inside.
Q-Tip with acetone
220 grit to ruff up the insert
glue with Gorilla super glue impact tough formula.
So far no pulled inserts......
Super glue.
Another vote for Gorilla glue. I haven't lost a brass insert with it yet. You can also heat in water to remove inserts for tuning.
I had some Gold Tips with the same issue. I sand papered the insert, this inside of the shaft and epoxied them in with 90 minute epoxy. The key is letting them dry overnight. No more pop outs after that.
Watch out for the gorilla glue. That's what I used on my last arrows. Got one that I didn't push in fast enough and now the inserts is 1/8" out. Try as I might can't get it loose to push it in all the way.
This is what I have been doing Inserts (http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=076835)
Easton 24 hr epoxy or jb weld. Two best that I have experienced. dino
Thank you everyone. Lots of help, different ideas on glue.
Brock
Nail them in with liquid nails or any quality construction adhesive. Sold in a caulking tube and will glue 10,000 inserts, but it is cheap and will never come out. Nicety stuff.
1. Sandpaper the insert and the inside of the shaft
2. Clean with 90% isopropyl alcohol on q-tip
3. Glue with Goat-Tuff, let dry 12 hours
4. Never worry about losing an insert
Brett
super glue gel
If you use epoxy, try 24 hour and then set them under a quartz lamp. You want to get them pretty warm, too hot to touch. I find that epoxy set this way is much stronger and doesn't come out sticky. It only takes about 10 to 15 minutes (sometimes only 5 minutes) to completely set the glue and it will be pretty hard to the touch right away. The 24 hour glue gives you plenty of time to work with before you put the heat to it. I've been gluing sinew on the back of self bows this way. It is real strong. In fact this is how a lot of the bow manufactures glue up their limbs.
1. Carbon prep tool (or brush as stated by others)to roughen up the inside of the carbon shaft.
2. Clean brass for coatings & inside of shaft w/ alcohol pad
3. Goat-Tuff (there is a release agent for this product too should you need to take it apart - also a "swing hammer works - heat & carbons is risky)
Good luck, lots of good methods discussed here.
BobW
dang Brett, I started writing this, and got interrupted part way through. Once I got back, 6 more posts, including yours..... oh well, sorry for the repeat.
BobW
JB WELD
I use AAE Fast Set Gel...basically super glue gel. I never have any issues with them coming out.
goat tuff has worked well for me
I've also had problems with standard glues. Switched to LocTite 2-part epoxy-- no more lost inserts. Let them set overnight. I also prep the arrows with a carbon prep tool.
After shaft and insert prep, I use the devcon epoxy that gives you 30 minutes working time. Then I let them cure overnight. There is something about epoxy that requires an overnight or it don't come out right.
I just made some up today. Is. alcohol on a Q-tip, rough up the inside with 50gr sandpaper and glued in with 2 part JB Weld. I will let you know my results tomorrow when I bare shaft into my McKenzie sheep..PR
Well, after bare shafting and settling on 175gr field point the 100gr brass inserts held firm in my Gold Tip 5575 camo blems. I also shot 50 fletched arrows without a problem. So I think I will stay with the 2 part JB Weld...PR