I'm trying to set up for an elk hunt. The hunt isn't until Sept 2010, but I want to use the same set up for deer this season and an upcoming pig/javelina huntin January. I am shooting an 62" A&H ACS, 55lbs at my 28" draw. I have some Grizzlystik Sitkas and some Grizzlystik Alaskas. They shoot equally well out of my bow. I am shooting 125gr Magnus Stingers on both arrows. The Sitkas weigh 505 grains and shoot about 184 fps. The Alaskas weigh 630 and shoot about 165 fps. Which arrow would you recommend.
Keep em sharp!
Phil
Philip, either will do the job, so use the one you are most confident with and make sure they are flying perfectly. The extra weight will help "if" it is flying straight with no wobble. You can be confident with either though.
I shot a bull with a 620 grain arrow tipped with a 150 grain Stinger last year out of a 58lb recurve. Passthrough, dead in less than 10 seconds. I would lean that way.
You could probably load the Sitkas up with 25 to 50 more grains too without changing the arrow flight.
I like the heavier ones as well. Both will do the job, but heavier arrows sure make me feel better.....
I shoot a 53# 62" ACS and the flight with the Sitkas was weak even when the weight was down to 500 gn like yours. They were cut to 29".
The Alaskans ended up at 650 gn with a 145gn point, bareshafted pretty well and flew great fletched.
For me it would be a no brainer; the Sitkas would not fly well out of my bow unless they were set up with light adapters and light points.
Keep in mind that elk are the hardest animal in north america to kill, the elk in my avatar was hit with a 665gr. arrow w/cut on contact broadhead, out of a 65 #er 20 yards and didnt pass through. make shure your broadheads are rrrazor sharp.
I am in the overkill camp too. This is one of those times where more is better, provided your arrows are flying straight. 10-11 gr per pound of bow weight is a good place to be. Me, I am shooting 69 pounds and a 730 gr carbon arrow.
I am in the overkill camp as well..........72 lb Brackenbury Quest shooting 690 gr thin carbon arrows tipped with Grizzly El Grandes ;) Better to have and not need than to need and not have.
Brett
505 grains with a cut-on-impact head at 184 fps? Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. Like Goerge said, both will work. So it really comes down to which one you shoot better and have more confidence in.
Shoot the one you are most accurate with at the distance you plan to shoot. Where you put the arrow is most important regardless of which animal you are shooting.
Phillip,as George stated either will do. The kenetic energy of the 505gr. Sitkas @ 184 fps = 37.97. The 630gr. Alaskas @ 165fps = 38.09. Use whatever flys the straightest and gives you the most confidence. Bow noise and stability may also be a consideration.
Greenie
The 505 grainer all the way. For those possible 30yd shots you will eliminate a minimum 20" of drop between the 2 arrows mentioned. 500 aprox grn arrows is all we shoot in our elkcamp! 3 of us have taken 8 bulls in the last 3 years with 500grn setups! Razor sharp heads are way more important than trying to decide on arrow choice there! Good Luck!
ElkNut1
I say shoot the pretty ones! You need to be prepared for the trophy photos! LOL.
With all do respect guy's, I have a hard time sitting back and reading some of the recommendations for killing big animals.
As I have said before WE ARE NOT FLY FISHING, I don't want the lightest tackle I can get away with and still land the fish.
I want to use a BAZOOKA ( more than I will ever need )figuratively speaking.
If a Bull is brodeside at 10-15 yards and stands still, I can kill it with a 40lb bow and a 300 grain arrow.
However we don't live in NARNIA, this is the real world, and in the real world poo poo happens, and this dude MURPHY has this law he found, and that law says: if anything can go wrong, it will go wrong.
Now what happens when this same bull drops at the shot?............. decides to spin at the shot?............... whorls at the shot?..................... or just flat out EXPLODES at the shot?
Now your perfect shot has turned into a bad shot ( at no fault of the hunter ) I want more penetration than I need, with a heavy arrow you will be able to drive your broadhead deeper in this 800-1,000lb bull.
Just like MORPHY'S law, we also have the law of physics, and that law say's, mass in motion has a tendency to stay in motion ( for those who live in Rio Linda, it keeps going )
Can you kill a bull elk with a light set up "YES"
Why take the chance, when we know better, we have those who have gone before us and shared what it takes to turn a less than desirable shot into a killing shot.
Doctor Ed Ashbey has so unselfishly shared his findings on what it take to get maximum penetration, with over 650 big game kills recorded in just the last 25 years ( he does not have records for the first 25 years)
For me, I have just cooked up my arrow for elk this year, 300grain grizzly El grandy with a 1716 shaft over a carbon for a total arrow weight of 765 grains out of my 60lb Centaur, with 28.07% EFOC, my point on is 40yards, which I could shoot out to, but probable wont, more like under 20yds.
Now with perfectly tuned, supper duper razor sharp, heavy arrows, I stand a much better chance of a kill if something go's wrong, and if it don't, I just pick up my arrow 20-30 yards on the other side.
Just my two cents
king, i,m with you. Overkill camp only makes sense and IME it pays off often.
70# caribow, 800ish grains, 31" AD hammerhead+310 gr grizz. bring on the ribs.
shoot the heavies. 20" drop seems a bit on the pessimistic side. can someone do the math? either you shoot well @ 30 or you don't, know your limitations.
All of the data scientifically and I would argue theoretically is in the ashby camp on this one. If you like lighter arrows good on you. I got a pass thru with bemans and a 125 gr razorcap, shooting a 65# saluki.
however I also got complete penetration AFTER cutting an unforseen limb with 750 gr arrow tipped with a 290 gr ribtek. thats when I appreciate the extra umph.
I'm with Elknut - the 20" drop are real numbers and could make the difference between a great shot and a tough trailing. And his results seem too work.
Steve
Kingwouldbe as always :thumbsup:
All arrows 'drop'; the 'drop' does not exist if that is what you shoot regularly. My set up is 12 GPP, works great on big hogs and should work equally well on Elk.
I'm honestly curious, how do you arrive at the 20" drop difference? Gotta be some wicked trig to figure that out?
Dan, I was using the arrow tip as a reference on equal length arrows of the various weights when I did the testing. Take a 500grn arrow & any other heavier arrows of equal length that tune out & you'll see the results for yourself.
Not saying there's anything wrong with shooting heavier equipment, but I am saying don't disregard setups that are proven & may differ from others. Weight of an arrow within reason of course is nothing when compared to a truly razored up broadhead that is tuned beautifully to ones arrow! (grin) Just ask me & I'll tell you! (grin)
Guys, use what works for you!
ElkNut1
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I don't know squat about elk myself.
I do know that they are like anything else in that you got to hit them before you kill them.The 184fps arrow will make the most important part of hitting them easier than the slower arrow so it would be my choice. Even if I had to shoot a smaller broadhead if I thought it was needed. jmo
Kingwouldbe has killed more Elk and supersized Hogs than most of us can dream about-all with Trad gear. His set up has proved it's worth.
9.18 gpp vs 11.45 gpp...
web page (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=067177)
Interesting post.. Especially like O.L. posts to show the science to show the trade offs of vel, ke, mometuum...
I doubt the drop will be as big of an issue.... I personally think the latest wheelie speed bow will shoot even flatter... But since we choose the voluntary restraint of what trad offers... I think both would kill... Primitive archers are able to do so with the limitations of lower weight stone heads and much lower bow efficiencies..
9 gpp seems ok for medium sized game... Most of the hoghunting fellas want more... I would want more for a half ton elk... I think a lil more efoc would aid penetration as well... Do you have enough length to cut back shafts to increase spine in order to go heavier on the head? I'd suggest at least 10 gpp and think heavier is better until about 12 gpp...
"Weight of an arrow within reason of course is nothing when compared to a truly razored up broadhead that is tuned beautifully to ones arrow!"
That statement kinda suggests that a heavy arrow is unlikely to be truly razored up or beautifully tuned to the arrow. And that is ridiculous.
Its kind of like the statement.."just hit him in the right spot and don't worry about it..or hit em in the boiler room is what counts."
OF COURSE...That is all a given.
A heavy arrow can have the exact same sharp broadhead, it can be shot just as accurately and it can be tuned just as beautifully as any other lighter arrow.
BUT....At the "30 yard" range that was suggested the lighter arrow is NOT going to carry the momentum that the heavy arrow is. The heavier arrow doesn't like to stop near as fast as the lighter arrow.
That is a reason to use the heavier arrow.
I would rather be hit with a plastic wiffle ball at 50 mph than a shot putt at 5 mph....assuming they were tuned properly of course.
http:// (http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii259/ElkNut1/Elk%20Hunting-Our%20Photos/ElkCutAway-1.jpg)[/IMG] Here's a picture of an elk cut-out, hopefully it works! (grin) Now please show me all this steel armor plate we need to get through! Incidentally, since when is 500grns light? 350-400grns is considered light!
Check out the position of an elks scapula, it's not a good shot selection no matter the arrow or equipment used, you hit it & your odds of recovery go way down even if you get through the lower portion, fact is stay away from crowding the plate you will lose more than you win!
ElkNut1
If all the "givens" are taken care of...sharp head, well tuned arrow, proficient practice with your weapon, etc. what is a reason to NOT use a sayyyy....650+ grain arrow for elk? What does a a hunter loose by shooting the heavier arrow?
elknut,
you make one very good point about not discounting what works for others. If you can knock elk down with rubber bands everytime then whom am I to argue.
A sharp broadhead with 25" of arrow sticking out of that elk may not kill it. There is no armour plating but if you center a rib with a light(er) arrow out of a light bow or get some arrow deflection off of some twig, or whatever, you may be sorry.
If 500 grn arrows are already proven to not have a problem with all of this then sounds like there is no arguement, but it sounds like that is not conclusive for everyone.
I practice at 30 yds with selfbows and shoot 630-780 grn arrows consecutively and get nowhere near 20" of drop difference. Scientifically it might be provable that they do but in practice I do not have that problem. A 600+ grn. arrow out of that ACS bow should sizzle down range and that is what I would use.
The thing about elk that I don't think people realize is not that they are thick skinned and thick boned, it is that they can be tenacious. Their tendency is to run harder and further in the first place, when spooked, so even with a good shot they can put enough ground between them and the hunter to make finding them difficult. Not always, but often enough that you'll hear those stories, and from rifle hunters too.
Add to that an elk that is shot with a less than ideal shot and you have an elk that can get completely out of that area on you.
I've heard too many stories from bow and rifle hunters of broadheads and bullets found inside of elk that have been there for weeks or months.
So you definately want the full package....max penetration and maximum cutting.
I certainly agree with your folks last thoughts to an extent. But define "light". I have said that heavier setups work just fine, no question there. You guys are the ones stating that 500 is Too light. I've proven as have others that's non-sense. It's what some have read in books that are misleading them. Actual testing & proof of meat on the ground & horns of the wall prove otherwise!
For the record, ribs are not solid bone contact, even a 25lb bow will blow through an elk rib, a rib is no match for any 50#-55# bow. Look at the kill zone well, on a broadside or quartering away shot do you want to hit the leg-bone or plate? No, you must hit them where they live regardless of what "rubber band" you're shooting.
Steve B. please go outside & shoot a 500grn arrow then shoot a 700 grn arrow. Use your point on tip at 25 yds shoot both, you'll see the 20" drop. Don't dare go to 35yds or more or you'll see 4' in drop. (grin)
King, how many elk have you lost with a 500grn setup? My gut tells me you've not tried one! I mean no offense but one shouldn't knock others because they may use different setups!
ElkNut1
elknut,
There is no "light", there is only "lighter". The argument is not that 500 is too light, its that 600 is better.
And the argument is not whether 500 shoots flatter. The arguement there is, as Bjorn said, that there is no "drop". You are not out hunting with 500 and 700 grn arrows, shooting max distances at elk. You are out hunting with whatever you have been shooting all year, and at ranges that you shot all year. So why would I move back to 35 yds.?
And likewise, the argument is not whether such and such a rig will break a rib...its whether that rib is slowing down one setup MORE than another.
No idea what kind of bow you are shooting; but your 'test' is not wotking for me. I took a 560gn arrow-lightest I have-and a 700 gn arrow and shot both at 25 yds 3 times-to try and be fair I always shot the light one first. I have never shot 'point on' before so someone else may need to try that too.
I got an average drop difference of 6". Maybe it is the bow?
Elknut1, hello good to see you here as a member, I'm going on my first elk hunt in Sep 2010. Found your web site and find it to be a wealth of info, I will be reading it for the next year and will be buying your books to fill my brain with as much knowledge as I can.
About arrow drop, with trad gear there is no perceived arrow drop. If you shoot 500 grain arrows they go where you look if you shoot 700 grain arrows they go where you look. Now if you shoot 500 grain arrows and switch to 700 grain arrows the day before the hunt you will shoot under everything you shoot at, at a distance, now if you switch 6 months or a year before the hunt and get your brain trained, weight will be earlavent.
I shoot 56# and a 530 grain arrow. I am going to switch to a 600 to 650 grain arrow right now. I know my 530 arrow will do the job but the heaver arrow in my little mind will boost my confidence and that is a big part to.
Key here is this will work for ME.
Thanks!
I shoot both instinctive & gap, this is why it's important to me. But you are correct that if you shoot instinctive only, it only takes a short time to be accustomed to whatever arrows you shoot! Makes perfect sense! (grin)
I would be the first to jump on the 600grn+ band wagon my friends if I was having any issues with penetrating & killing any animal I hunt. Fact is I've had no issues at all this is why I can honestly recommend a 475grn arrow to a 700grn arrow depending on draw weight shot. In my case I prefer a 480grn to 515 grn arrow, that's with a 200grn head wt. It works well for us!
Here's several bulls we took all with 500grn setups! We have more but you can see no issues or reasons to change!
ElkNut1
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Elknut, thanks for your thoughts. No doubt they've worked for you. And they do work for others. I have killed several with lighter setups than you're talking about here. And on the other side, I've killed another bunch with the heavier. They both work! and if you want to use em go for it!
The drop thing is relative though, as I don't find it any harder to hit at further distances, given the ability to practice with both.
But, to say that lighter are as good at penetration and killing power as a heavier EFOC arrow just ain't true, even at relatively slower speeds. If we hypothetically went to Africa to kill an elephant, I'm willing to bet most here would take a heavy arrow and sharp cut on contact 2 blade. Heavier meaning heavier than lighter. In the instance mentioned at the top of the the thread we're given two options from the same bow. The heavier one would out penetrate the lighter given a clean shot within ethical limitations.
Ashbys studies are hardly misleading. They are the most scientific thing we have in this field, with by the far the most kills recorded in detail to produce it from anything I've heard of, more than I'll likely see in a lifetime of hunting and killing, even at the rate of kiling a bull or four a year. They show consistently that a heavier arrow given the same head and flight characteristics will penetrate deeper regardless of what it is shot into, in an unbiased manner. Physics behind momentum describe the same ability. That is all that the argument is. So, if that's what he is looking for, the ability to kill most effeciently, use the heavier and stay within your limitations.
However, if you are more confident with the lighter, use it, since it too will do the job.
All of the data scientifically, and I would argue theoretically, is in the ashby camp on this one.
Subjectively though, you're entirely correct that there is room for difference of opinion; in that if you are confident with the lighter setup and believe it to be more than enough for the given animal, especially favoring that setup at a further distance, than go to it. If you shoot the heavier great at the same distance though, well...around we go.
If you like lighter arrows good on you. like I stated earlier:
"I got a pass thru with bemans and a 125 gr razorcap, shooting a 65# saluki.
however I also got complete penetration AFTER cutting an unforseen limb in midair with 750 gr arrow tipped with a 290 gr ribtek. thats when I appreciate the extra umph." A lighter arrow may have deflected enough to gie me one lung or worse, a non vital hit.
That's My opinion, which also has a bunch of testing, meat on the ground and horns on the wall to back it up.
I consider you a friend here, so if we gotta hang this one on the wall and just disagree, I'm all for it. Perhaps we can have that argument over a fire in camp some day!
:-)
sorry didn't see you post. I'll never tire of seeing that big boy in the creek!
Looks like we've come to an understanding though. Shoot straight, I'll be ordering up a few spare calls in a week or so.
Regards, Dan
No question you can be every bit as accurate with a heavy arrow as a lightER one at longer distances. There is a difference in arrow drop. It only becomes a problem when you might see a 25 yd shot as say 20 yds (consciously or sub consciously/instinctively). Then the margin of error increases more with the slower heavier arrow because of the differnce in drop.
Easy to do in the heat of the moment with a big critter with seconds or less to shoot. A faster arrow allows me to make the shot a good one a greater % of the time.
Steve
QuoteThe heavier one would out penetrate the lighter given a clean shot within ethical limitations.
No doubt - but using those parameters, the only difference to the choices of the original question is how deep in the dirt are the 2 arrows.
If both arrows are flying perfectly, the heavier will "probably" out penetrate the lighter, providing both are the same material and are within reaon the same relative energy level at impact. The perhaps one can measure how far out the other side they will land 8^).
Elknut has shown his arrows work fine, there is no need to even discuss why. They work....great.
I don't think anyone here really realizes what an arrow can do from 400 to 800 grains. At some point we know there will be diminishing returns, but to argue with someone about their choice, when it is proven to work well, is flat out stupid.
What is stupid is that some people here think we are trying to change elknut's choice of arrow weights when all responses are to his suppositions about arrow performance. The thread isn't even about him. But one is for sure...it is pointless.
My vote goes to the 505 gn...that in itself is a heavy arrow and is more than enough IMO. I prefer a faster and flatter shooting arrow when hunting big game...9-10 gpp of bow wt seems to give me excellent penetration with sufficient speed. Some may prefer the arc...I prefer to see only a ball of feathers streaking to my target. Again this is just MO.
"The 505 grainer all the way. For those possible 30yd shots you will eliminate a minimum 20" of drop between the 2 arrows mentioned. 500 aprox grn arrows is all we shoot in our elkcamp! 3 of us have taken 8 bulls in the last 3 years with 500grn setups! Razor sharp heads are way more important than trying to decide on arrow choice there! Good Luck!"--------------
Steve, note my original post above. I was not questioning anyones setup. I merely stated my thoughts & the reason why I'd choose the 505grn arrow, period. Others chimed in later questioning a 500grns ability, I now in turn post photos to prove my point on the effectiveness of a 500grn arrow setup. Again, use what works for you but don't downplay it's effectiveness on ones elk hunt! For instance, they are far from tossing rubber bands at elk! Have a great day!
ElkNut1
http://shrewbows.com/carbon_arrows.html
Good article George. thanks for sharing
George, thanks, I too appreciate real life experiences as well.
Elkbreath, I'd share a campfire with you anytime! Actually it would be a privilege! Thanks!
ElkNut1
Again I ask this question.....
If all the "givens" are taken care of...sharp head, well tuned arrow, proficient practice with your weapon, etc. what is a reason to NOT use a sayyyy....650+ grain arrow for elk? What does a a hunter loose by shooting the heavier arrow?....
Because, simply put, research has shown (and I know a lot of you guys just love it when more great arrow lethality research is mentioned.. wonder why?) with the above conditions in place, the work and efficiency of a heavier arrow hitting an animal is better than that of the lighter arrow.
Richie - because I choose the setup that FOR ME will give ME the best chance of making the shot that will blow thru and put the animal down quickly. For me that is a setup shooting about 190 fps - and I'll never shoot enough draw wght to get that from an Ashby arrow.
Please note - I am SteveB - not Steve B.
Richie, good question! For me & I speak for myself. It's about a reasonable amount of speed & trajectory, they go hand in hand. But at the same time I don't want to sacrifice penetration so I stay with a happy medium. Meaning, I could go with 400grns & yes that would be quicker but I'd sacrifice penetration in all tests I've done & I'm not willing to accept that on my elk hunts, on deer hunts you could negotiate your arrow weight some. The other end of the spectrum is too heavy for my 55# longbow. 9-10grn per lb is efficient & deadly for me.
I want this type of speed/setup to put the odds in my favor a bit, you never know when that elk may move or jump/bolt or do the infamous dip at the shot, when this happens & it doesn't always happen but I want my arrow there as quick as possible so my good shot doesn't turn into a bad shot because of a slower setup. The difference between a 500grn arrow & a 650grn+ is an easy 20fps & at times more. This means in a 1/4 second the slower arrow is still 5' behind the 500grn arrow at impact, as I say it can be a heart breaker when a bad shot does occur. It's bad enough to keep ones composure during a high energy close elk encounter, no need to add something else into the equation.
Too, I will take a 35yd shot at an elk if everything is right, both speed & less trajectory certainly can come into play here, it's not for everyone & I understand that but I'm prepared for it. My longest shot at a bull & my 1st one (grin) with my longbow was 26yds, he jumped & bolted upon release I believe that quicker arrow did make a difference there but it's difficult to prove! The arrow sank to the feathers on him as he was quartered away & the magnus SnufferSS 3-bladed head lodged into the off shoulder solid as rock, I had tons of penetration with a 490grn 2016 arrow. So 500grns for myself is the best of both worlds, it hasn't let me down yet! Here's the 26yd bull.
ElkNut1
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Thanks...
That is pretty much the same reason that I shoot 760-770 grain arrows at elk instead of the 900-1000 grain arrows at whitetails in Alabama. The only reason I use the big arrows for whitetails is for bow quietness at 12-15 yards. Although I like heavy arrows, I drop back to the lighter 760's for elk so I can have a flatter (not flat) shot out to 30 yards and decrease my margin of error as SteveB mentioned before...and I'm not near AS worried about the bow noise. Although it is very quiet for elk hunting. But for me pulling my 69 lb Black Widow, any arrow under 650 grains is too loud and not near as smooth to shoot.
BTW..All the information all of you offer is very much appreciated.
Richie
dangit 'nut, i gotta buy a bunch more arrows!
actually your posts here coupled with stouts link helped me make a decision. I've been mullin over using a snuffer this year over the 300 gr grizz. You've made up my mind. Shootin 72#'s I've decided I might as well shoot the lighter 255gr massive 3 blade... got enough punch I think to get two BIG holes rather than two skinny ones, and my AD hammerheads shoot both clean. I'll put one thru a muley first to test em out.
shalom! and good discussion.
Elknut.."The difference between a 500grn arrow & a 650grn+ is an easy 20fps & at times more. This means in a 1/4 second the slower arrow is still 5' behind the 500grn arrow at impact, as I say it can be a heart breaker when a bad shot does occur."
Is this actually true?... When you include the down range momentum, the lighter arrow is going to slow down quicker than the heavier arrow. I wonder at which distance does the fps of each arrow get really close to being the same.
It is probably not significant in your example with 500 and 650 gr. arrows but I think at some point it may be important to know.
Elkbreath, LOL!!! Dude, you're good enough to kill elk with a baseball bat! (grin) Whatever arrow you choose will be just fine!! By the way I had no idea you shot 72#, what a stud!
Richie, I'm no scientists by any stretch, just an elk hunter. But I've shot enough combination's of various wt arrows over the years out of just about everything to say that a 500grn arrow shot out of a 50#-60# bow & a 650grn+ arrow shot out of the same bow, both arrows being satisfactory tuned to the bow that the 650+ arrow has no chance of catching up with that 500grn one. I'm talking out to 50 yds anyway as I don't practice a whole lot passed that except for occasional stump shooting at unknown distances.
Heavy arrows have their pros but speed isn't one of them! (grin) They do have good down-range penetration however, once they get there! (grin)
ElkNut1
Elk ribs are pretty small in diameter for the size of the animal and are easily broken with a lighter bow. They also have a kill area approximately twice the size of a deer. A hit in the ribs is going to most likely result in a short recovery.
But, like you all have read many times on here 'use the heaviest bow you can shoot accurately". I think this is true with elk or whatever you are hunting. Also use the heaviest arrow you are accurate with. Accuracy being the key word here.
Elknut....How fast is your 500 grain arrow from your 55 lb. bow?
I killed the elk in my Avitar with a 605 grain carbon arrow and a two blade Zwickey from a 58# Black Widow recurve. My draw length is only about 26.5 inches but I got a complete pass through. I doubt my speed was much over 165 FPS.
Elknut I'm with you also 450-550 grainers for me noo problems from hogs to elk. I don't think anyone on this post is saying a 500 grain arrow with out penetrate a 700 grain one. The 500 grainer will do what is needed though, just at a little higher speed.
FWIW...
I have taken 4 elk with a WW or smaller Snuffer, 55 lbs, dacron string, about 185FPS and a 550 gn arrow.
Three pass-thrus and one lodged on the off side shoulder.
It seems a reasonable combination of all the factors one should consider when selecting their tackle.
Your mileage may vary.
Bob
Richie, not sure as I've never had my longbow chronographed! I would estimate in the low 190's though.
ElkNut1
If your broadhead is sharp and you make a good shot he is dead.Nobodys elk is more dead then another mans dead elk.reguardless of the set up.It's a personel deal.Thats why they make diffrent equipment.Be sensible and shoot what you like.
Lots of good information here. I still haven't decided. Even though both of these arrows were tuned to different bows they shoot well off this bow. I think I'll finish fine tuning and go with whichever shoots the best off my bow.
Keep em sharp!
Phil
Phillip, Your last sentence makes the most sense. "I think I'll finish fine tuning and go with whichever shoots best off my bow!" Absolutely!
Absolutely...that sums it all up :thumbsup: