I know alot of guys say to use 38 or 357 shell casings as blunts but how do you guys add weight to them to get them up in weight? Thanks Flint
Lead shot works well.
I used to melt solder in them while on a scale and brought them right up to match my other 145 gr. points. Only takes a couple minutes to do a doz. I've also done them lead shot thing but thought it was too tedious.
Flint,
I think it was Tim Nuss who told me he used a hot plate and lead shot. Stand the casings up on the hot plate, put a predetermined number of shot pieces into them, let it melt and then cool.
just be cafeful with the torch. The brass melts easy..I would think it would be hard to melt the lead inside of the brass. I like the solder and scale idea.
The old standard was to punch out the primer and use a brass screw or small nail into the wood shaft with a pre drilled pilot hole.
For what ever it's worth if anything, #8 shot (Dove and quail load) weigh 1 gr per pellet.
Don't worry about melting the case, the lead will melt much sooner, they solder brass and copper tubing all the time.
I've melted .177 pellets that weighed 7 grains per one pellet. Used a propane torch to melt them inside the head.
I put the case on a digital scale and dribble in shot to get to the weight I want. I use 7 1/2 shot because it's what I have on hand.
I mount the case on the shaft with epoxy and put a couple drops of epoxy in the shot just before seating the shaft. Between the epoxy and the shaft fit everything is tight enough to hold and not rattle.
Guy
If you are using them for small game, slip a 125 grain HTM rubber blunt over them, and you have what I call a Wrecking Ball! This gives you a tip weight of 188 grains. Wicked deadly on small game and birds. Not bad for the rotten stumps we have up here in Fairbanks too.
You could use the Internal Point Weight and Footing Jig.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Internal+Point+Weight+and+Footing+Jig_o1_i5603X_listproduct.html
I've too have used lead shot to weight my .38 Special cases. I simply dropped the required number of shot into the case and heated them on the gas ring of my stove until they melted. I then glued them to my arrows in the normal way.
I found that because the case isn't particularly strong away from the 'webbed' area near the base, my case blunts were very prone to get bent up when hitting the ground at an angle.
There is another way. If you glue some ordinary 11/32 inch field points to your arrow, the empty .38 case will slip over the top with a good friction fit. The combination of the two points gives you excellent weight forward and they hit very hard, plus you can always slip the cases off and use them as field arrows.
Mick
I do mine the same way as Gray Taylor,without melting the shot and they work fine.
Denny
QuoteOriginally posted by geno:
just be cafeful with the torch. The brass melts easy..I would think it would be hard to melt the lead inside of the brass. I like the solder and scale idea.
I guess I should have used a smaller tip on my torch.. :knothead:
Check for a live primer in the casing before adding heat.
If you stumble on one without knowing, it'll get exciting in a hurry.
Don't ask how I know. :scared:
I leave the field tip of desired weight ON the arrow, punch out the spent primer and slip the case over the field tip. The case is light enough not to affect spine or trajectory significantly. Most stay on pretty well without glue, others could be fixed with epoxy or something. I have a lot of cases so I usually just slip another case over the tip should it come off after a shot.
A #4 split shot sinker dropped in the bottom, tap it a few times with a punch (bolt) and heavy hammer, and you have a blunt that weighs around 125 grains.
The sinker smashes into the bottom and doesn't require glue to hold it in place.
I made fifty of them in just half and hour. And that includes the time spent dancing around the bow room after I hit my thumb with the sledge. :(
And you have to know Red to understand why he would use a sledge to put 38 caliber cases on his wooden arrows 8^). I'm trying to get the dancing out of my head though....kind of like the Pat McManus, Crouch Hop. :biglaugh:
George,
Small hammer=many taps.
Big hammer=one big tap, AND one big purple thumbnail.
I never said I was real bright. Cheap, yes. But not real bright.