It's been about 3/4 of a year since a made a complete switch to wood arrows. In that time, I've been completely content with them on every level except one: stumping.
Now, I've tried a lot of glues. I finally settled on a certain green miracle glue used by a member of the gang. Works the best out of any glue I've used by far, yet I still loose points. So, it's gotta be my prep work.
What do you guys do to prep a point/shaft. Nothing's too obsessive; really getting tired of loosing a quivers worth of points in short order...
What is this greem miracle glue called bud.
All I know it's that it's some sort of contruction grade hot melt...
I use 2 part epoxy and never had one come off. If I want take it off I heat it with a candle and pull it off with pliers.
Did it Brian; lost all 4 points in 15 minutes. Ishiwannabe was there and gave me a sample of the glue I was speaking of. Granted, the brand of epoxy was more generic in comparison with my favored 2-Ton epoxy, and prep work could have been better.
Still, I wanna know how you prep a shaft. I've gone through at least ten different glues; standard hot melt, ferr-L-tite (worst of the bunch), Loc-Tite superglue (desperate), 2 part epoxy, Kim-sha hot melt...the list goes on...
I use "Kimsha" hot melt from 3R or KK.
You aint shootin' field points into stumps are ya? didnt think so.
Eric
What Westbrook said, it's the best I have ever used.
Yeah, don't get me wrong. I love the Kimsha glue. Not effected by heat or cooler temps., and switching to it from Ferr-L-tite assured that I never lost another point in foam again. Any target, for that matter. Hay bales, styrofoam, bean bags, layereds, 3-d's. Not the same deal for stumps, though. Which again, leads me to believe that it's all about how one preps both point and shaft...
I'd stick with shooting softer targets.
-Vig
You cleaning the inside of the tip well?
I do that as well as take a 11/32 tap and scratch up the inside of the point after wiping it out with alcohol, then gluing it on.
I never shoot stumps with field pts.- I always use judos in stumps.
I clean up my taper with acetone before gluing until a q- tip comes out clean. You would be surprised how much crud is left over from the machining process. Chips and oil.
More than likely the inside of your points aren't clean enough.
Put them in a laquer thinner or acetone bath for several minutes then force a cone of paper towel into point and twist it.
Next roll some emory cloth (80-100 grit) into a cone and twist it around until the you can see the steel shining.
Repeat the laquer thinner/acetone treatment and they are ready.
Some suggest burning the inside of the point with a torch or flame, but this only leaves the burned residue of whatever was in there to begin with.
You want clean!
As far as using the hot melt, about any will work. I like to mix a stick of common Walmart hot melt with a stick of FeruleTite. Makes a strong flexible glue.
The taper itself should be sanded smooth with the 80/100 grit paper... the more perfect the fit of the taper in the point, the tighter the head tends to stay.
It only takes a small amount of glue smeared on the taper. I don't heat the taper other than warming it up slightly with my torch. You don't want to scorch it.
With any head, the ferrule should be pretty dang hot when you slide it on the taper... hot enough to make the glue instantly liquid.
At this point spin the head 4 or 5 complete revolutions seating it as you do. The excess glue should come out around the ferrule pretty evenly.
Force the point against a hard surface to do the final seating and spray water on it or wipe with a wet rag.
Don't release pressure until the head is totally cooled.
My local public range used to use excelsior bales and they ate my hot-melt glued tips like candy.
I finally tried a good quality 12 minute epoxy from a hobby shop and haven't had a problem since.
I generally soak the tips in a diluted Simple Green mixture for about 1/2 hr, agitating a couple times. After draining I dribble in some denatured alcohol, swirl well to rinse, and then dump the tips on a rag. I use inexpensive cotton swabs to clean the inside of the taper and a rag on the outside.
Guy
Pin them
Charlie nailed it for me. I used to loose some points until a fella told me to use HEAT on a CLEAN head. It only takes a a few munites.
Chris, Charlie's process with the green glue will about eliminate almast any point loss......If you want a stick or two more of the green glue, let me know...
If anybody knows the name of the green glue please let me know. I would really like to try it. Can you get it at Home Depo or Sutherlands?
Never found any hot melt that would hold on below 32 degrees while stump shooting. Sub-floor adhesive in a caulk gun tube works best for me, stays flexible even when frozen.
I use a propane torch to burn out the ferrel and mount my points with ferrel-tite.They stay put.I don't stump shoot much and never in the cold so might be better options for that.Most times when I see people loose points it is because they did not use enough heat to mount them.I don't care for epoxy.The hot melt works much better for my needs.
I've found grinding a spot-on taper helps too -
the wood tip goes clear to the
bottom just shy of a mouse whisker.
'Perfect' taper = less gap-filling demand
on the glue.
I soak the points in MEK,
run a riflebore brush on their
insides, wipe out the taper with
Q-tips, get them clean, lightly abraded.
Ferrule-Tite works very well for me.
Trying to glue dirt just doesn't work,
no matter what glue is applied.
Charlie Lamb's method is almost identical to the way I was taught by Stinson Hill, Howard's uncle. I was losing points at the Howard Hill World Championship in Wilsonville, AL around 20 years ago and Stinson helped me out. He was cooking burgers, and put my points on the grill to heat them up. When they were hot, he gave me a cup of water to quench them in after they were glued on and pressed hard. Haven't had a problem since. I now use a torch to heat the clean tips to the point that the little bit of glue bubbles some, but doesn't burn when the point is rotated on under pressure. As soon as it sets enough to release the pressure, it goes in a cool cup of water. This seems to create a vacuum when the point contracts that keeps the point in place.
Ferr-L-Tite will work fine if everything else is right. One thing to consider if you still lose points is whether the taper is accurately cut and the proper length. If the angle is off or if the taper is a hair too long and bottoms out, the points won't stay on regardless.
What I do for glue on points is I take a NPT 1/16-27 pipe tap and tap some threads in the point to give them some teeth.Then clean it out with alcohol and use a hot melt,but not Ferr-l-lite I find it becomes brittle after awhile.I use Saunders hot melt or Stick tite.They are more of a white colored hot melt,it is stronger and never lost a point after doing this.This is what has worked for me.
From JRY - "NPT 1/16-27 pipe tap"
Now that's one of the slickest ideas
I've seen in a long time, I'm heading
to the hardware store
JRY - What size points do you use? 11/32 or 23/64? I no nothing about pipe taps and their sizes. Would one need different sizes for different sizes of point? I would guess so.