Hello,
as I am getting tired of bend aluminium arrows i want to try some carbons.
When i asked for the right alu´s the recommendations here on tradgang were perfect. (Thanks vermonster and KillDeer again,was bareshafting the recommended 2016s - and no need for changes.)
So, what would you recommend?
50# @28, 60" recurve (Bear TD Hunter)
I draw 29 1/2 so meassured 54# at my draw.
125gr. heads preffered
If relevant i got a bow quiver, silencers and hushpuppys on it.
What would be the thinnest and most durable carbon shaft i should try? Cheap is OK but durable more important.
I already thought about Easton Endurance 400.
I am not sure though if that would be heavy enough to make a hunting arrow, as said, no knowledge about carbons i have.
Thank you very much in advance, any help highly apreciated.
When you thinnest, I quess you mean small dia. The one of the smallest diameters are the Beman MFX Classic's, also durable as most carbons are.
A few more choices would be Gold Tip 35/55, CX Heritage 150's, and Arrow Dynamic Traditional Lites.
thanks, yes sorry i meant small diameter
You could probably shoot Beman MFX Classic 400's. I use the 100 grain brass insert. Around 565/570 grains at 30" with a 125 point. MY 400 classics are 29" long with brass insert and weigh 557 grains. They shoot well from 50 to 62# for me. I also shoot the 500 Classics and they shoot well up to 56 or 57#'s for me.(Also with the 100 grain brass inserts.
I don't like MFX and Axis - Easton has big nock issues - they keep breaking some on release rest on impact of 3d targets. For your $$$ get some GT blems and try them at $42.00 a doz they cannot be beat.
If you had x-nocks breaking on release something else was wrong.Sounds like you had a real fat string that the nocks would not fit on to cause that.Those nocks will shoot from 100lb compounds with no problem at all.Using the wrong sized serving had to been the issue with yours. jmo
btw..back on topic
The cx heritage 90 is a very close match to the 2016 in spine.It should work fine with the same points and length as your 2016s.If you want decent weight without screwing with brass inserts and such that is what I would use.Other than that any thing with a 500 spine will work as well if cut about an inch longer than what your 2016s are cut. jmo
Just as James suggested, if the 2016 bareshafts for you I'd be looking for a .500 spine carbon.
James,
The guy at local shop checked serving and asked easton rep and they said fine. The Beeman nocks have held up better but they have now given me 3 doz replacement nocks for two dozen shafts. This past weekend at Denton Hill I took 9 Axis shafts in hopes of loosing them in ferns ( I really have had it with these things) by Sunday 6 more broken nocks. All 6 broke when arrows impacted 3d target. I have had four break on release in last two months. At $120.00 a dozen this is not acceptable to me and I'm sick of the replacement nocks.
Well it sure beats me.It is the first time I have ever heard of someone breaking an x-nock on release.They are much stronger built nocks than the gts.It is unusual for any nock to break on release unless it was damaged or so old the plastic had weakened as with some of the bohning nocks.Glad you found something that worked for you anyway.
James, the dealer has been saying he thinks it is because they ship the shafts with nocks in that they are getting damaged during shipping. I don't buy into that theory. Bad plastic/design is my take on it. The three new bags of inserts all came in different shipments at different times so not from same lot. Maybe it's just that a 75# Morrison is way to powerful for those nocks! Either way, the easton nocks and the new,never fired MFX that blew up on release and almost tore my arm to pieces have me 150% sure I don't like those skinny shafts. Grizzly sticks are great - little heavy for everyday use but for big game they are #1. Rest of time the GT are fantastic - a few may split at nock end when hard rock hit but for the price you can afford to throw those away and still be many $$$ ahead. I have never had a Grizzly or GT nock break yet.
i shoot the Beman MFX Classic 500's and they work out great. I have Easton Broadhead Adapter Rings on the front of them, to do a number of things. straighten the tip and to make it easier to pull out of the target. Ive had a doz of this arrows for over a year now and have only had one break on me and i cant even tell you how it happen just seen it in my quiver one day broke, and ive done every thing with these arrows hunted small, big game, practiced, shot 3d targets, and have shot them in trees on accidents :)
I picked up some CE Heritage 90s at ATAR, and they spine the same as a 2016 on my tester. Now, if they spine the same from lot to lot, I will be buying more!
2016 is what my new Centaur seems to like the best, so I bought a mess of them. The CEs are a good tough shaft with a super slick finish that oughta slide through a deer without a blink. They are also heavy enough that it isn't any strain to get 10 or 11 grains per pound of pull built into them.
Killdeer
My herritage 150`s are weak out of my Bear Super Kodiak 50#@28 even with 100gr.points(total weight around 440gr without weight tubes,about 525gr. with weight tubes.)Herritage 250`s are just right with 100gr.brass inserts and 200gr.points.(total weight around 650gr.)which is where i want for arrow weight.Herritage arrows are realy tough.And they look like woodys.They fooled alot of compound guys. :thumbsup:
I'm a big fan of Axis shafts. I have been shooting them since they first came out. I have also shot Beman MFX and like them as well. I have not had the nock problem as described by Hunt it. I have not shot the new Axis Nano all mine are the Axis ST. Maybe they changed the nocks, I don't know. The only time I break nocks is if I hit one shooting groups. Other than that they have been a very reliable and tough shaft for me.
thanks for the advice.
Ill get me a few different ones mentioned above and start testing
Hi,
somebody (i think the usename started with "sweet ol..." but i am not sure) wrote me emial and i deleted it accidently. please write again.
THX
If Sweet ol' Bill has some words of wisdom, I am all ears.
Killdeer :thumbsup:
I ould love to hear it, but i dont know how to ask him...
another question, till now i did not find any carbon shaft heavy enough. they all would be around 400-450 grain as an finished arrrow.
So it is not possible to build a good working (penetrating) hunting arrow witout adding extra weight or fancy stuff somewhere i assume.
I ask because round here its hard to get those things, almost all archers here are only target, they want their arrows light...
Sausmensch....you can screw a machine screw into the back of the insert and glue it in place (before glueing the insert into the shaft. (just read that in the tips from the oldtimer column in TBM.) I've always bought the 100 grain brass inserts for added weight ....but the screws seem to be pretty cheap.
100gr brass inserts are available for just about all shafts these days. Grizzly sticks with 75gr brass inserts will go close to 500gr without broadheads. Your other option is to load up front, I use 250 and 300gr field tips and broadheads on all my carbons. The more weight you load up front the better they will fly.
I shoot the 100gr brass inserts and a 125 gr point/broadhead. I shoot Axis 300's and they finish out at 590 gr. The Beman MFX weigh more than the Axis per inch so if you use the 100 gr brass insert and 125-175 gr point you can get an arrow to finish out plenty heavy. Hope this helps.
thanks, it helps.
Hi all I guess I will tell you all that I also finally went to the dark side from ALum to now shooting 100% carbon.
Now where I have the issue it sure seems that the big problem with carbon is that if you follow the chart you may pick the wrong spine. I have been using now for about a full year the Bemen in 500 spine, fletched with 3 5.5 bananna cut fletch and 125 gr points. The bows I am using are all in the range of 46 to 52 lb at 28 inch and I draw 29 1/4, shaft are cut to 30 inch. I have not had one nock break upon release and or with 3D or even some 1/2 doz I made up for stumping that has a 1/2 inch outsert of alum 2117 epoxy over the carbon 500 shaft with 125 gr blunts. These bounce off trees without breaking, just do not shoot to close and or you may get a flash back and hit in the head.
I now have added internal weight that makes the arrow weigh in at close to 550 gr each. This was done by using a 2 inch 10 x 22 alum bolt with head cut off and 1/8 poly rope to fill the inside of the arrow carbon shaft with 1/8 inch long so as you push in the nock it makes nothing move inside the shaft. So far all is working well. I did have to cut on one shaft another piece of the poly rope as I could hear a clik as the arrow hits the 3D target. Now all is soundless as I shoot.
I wish there was a chart to show what results I do get by adding the weight, I am sure there has to be incease in peneration and a loss of FPS in speed of the arrow. But nothing that I can see. Being a retired IBM Eng, the idea of just keep adding weight upfront sure does seem to kill the positive reason for going to carbon. I should stay with my 2016 xx75....
lets keep having a full discussion on this.
Bill ( SOB )
Hello again,
so after i got time to do some testing and glueing, i wanted to share my results with you.
I am now shooting an EAston ST.Epic N-fused 400.
The arrow is durable, we tested it by shooting it against a concrete wall from 10m, no problem except for one nock breaking on impact (out of 8 shots).
I only added some 6mm polyrope on the full arrow length. Then my 125gr. tips, normal insert and nock.
They weigh in at 560 somewhat grain. Bareshafting them i got hits a little low and right. on 15 meters it was aprox. 10-20 cm low and right.
The nocks of the bare shafts were pointing left and high.
If anyone could comment on this i´d apreciate!!
Enough grain for a hunting arrow?
what or should i make adjustements according to the bareshafting test? the fletched arrows go out straight and just were i want them.
Do you think i would need more FOC because i didnt add tip weight or front insert?
Thank you alot!
Kind Regards
Breaking nocks:
mfg by injection moulding material Plastic.
Looking at Easton knocks - looks like an acrylic material, Grizzly knocks and Goldtip knocks are not an acrylic mat. Could we have some specs from the mfg? Are the the knocks produced from virgin material? is the material certified and where is these little puppies made?? I would hate to blow up a nice pair of limbs with cheap knocks.
Saumench looks like a weak reaction to me.
TX
Asgeir
tiur,
yes it is a weak reaction, but it is said that a slight weak reaction would be good because the fletches stiffen the spine alittle,
I just dont know how "slightt" this weak should be.
max 1" - 25mm
good luck
Asgeir