I had 2 Dozen GT 55/75 Camo Blems that had been in my shop for about a year, bought them from Sipsey River. I had since sold all my heavier bows, #50 down is all I shoot due to shoulder surgery. I am shooting a#50 Quinn Stallion and I cut some to length, hate extra long arrows, put in a 145gr. field tip and bare shafted them. Awful, shot 2 foot to the right, too stiff a spine. I was kicking myself, knew I should have shot them full length first. Well no use crying over spilt milk, so I fletched them with 4" parabolics and went back out to my range. I shot 4 shots with my regular arrows, and then shot the 3 55/75 I had fletched. The first 4 were in a circle about 5 inches around the 4" dot, shooting from 25 yds, so I could see arrow flight well. Then shot the 55/75's and the flew perfectly, all inside the 4" dot!! I tried this again and the shot tighter than the tuned arrows that I had bareshafte and go to shooting good. Then I went and screwed broadheads on, same great results! Just goes to show you never know until you try some things. I still have more faith in my regular shafts that shoot as good unfletched as they do fletched, but what do you guys think, any similar expeiences.?
Fletching can hide many things. Have someone stand behind you when you shoot the 55/75 and see if they kick at all. I have some light bows that shoot arrows of spine they should have no business being able to shoot according to the charts, but shoot them they do and very well at that.
I have done that Dave, they fly like they are on a line to the target. I guess one thing is for sure, nothing is for sure.
Are you left handed? cuzz for me being right handed stiff arrows shoot to the left.
Yep, I am right handed, use a cordovan tab treated with leather lotion, slick stuff!
You can add some more weight up front and they will shoot even better. That's what I shoot out of a PLX 52@28. It all depends on how cut to center the bow is.
The 55/75 are stiff as heck at your length. You can make them shoot better by adding more point weight.
Vermonster said, "fletching can hide many things."
That is correct, but that is not all it does. Bareshaft as you may, feathers add a new dynamic to the outcome...steering (spinning) and drag. Of course it can hide things, but feathers also steer, much the same as a spinning bullet. A spinning projectile isn't affected as much by the vagaries of the wind, etc.
Fletching won't help much if the arrow is stiff as a crow bar to begin with. Those 55/75 are spined approximately 55 at full length. At 28" they are closer the 75 pound spine with the 125 point. About 70 with 145. You would be much better off with the 35/55 range. Everyday we see folks buying horribly stiff carbons and trying to shoot standard tips at lower poundage; one needs to think more about flex (deflection) as it applies to their bow weight, draw length, and point weight.