Why can I not get the speeds that are listed in bow reports? I currently have a high performance longbow that is normally listed as being in the 190's with a 9 gpp at a 28" draw. I am getting 166 at 10 gpp. Am I doing something wrong? Don't think that I am hung up on speed, I really like the bow and don't plan on selling it because it's not as fast as I thought it would be, I'm just curious.
Have you measured your drawlength, properly. It's quite surprising how many people believe they have a 28" drawlength, measure it & realise it's nearer 26" ;)
Release has a huge bearing on speed too.
This is why I HATE chronoing bows. I bet you were really happy with it before you chrono'ed it too, weren't you?
what is your draw length? If you are drawing it to 28 I don't know.
Still really happy with it. I thought about the release as one possible culprit. Drawlength was measured and monitored at 28".
QuoteOriginally posted by Crash:
Still really happy with it.
Then why worry? ;)
i haven't chrono'd any of my bows and don't plan to for just that reason.
as long as a bow shoots where i want it to and is quiet i don't get too hung up on speed. they all shoot close enough so that you'd need a chrony to tell any difference and most shoot plenty fast enough
Not worried, just curious. Sometimes I over-analyze. I shoot the bow well, it's quiet and shock free. Before we broke out the crono, everyone was saying how fast the bow looked like it was shooting. After we tested 5 different bows, there was less than 10 fps between them. I know it's still a good performer, it was faster than one recurve that was 8 lbs more drawweight.
one's release has alot to do with it. it's not uncommon for me to have 8-10fps difference between a real smooth release and one that's not so smooth, add a little bit of a short draw on top of that not so smooth release...ughh
Crash, if your release is from a static 28" the string doesn't really leave your fingers until the draw is 1/2" to 1" shorter. I used to consistently get about 10 fps slower than Blacky with the same spec bows until I started drawing thru the release. So I am actually beginning my release around 28 1/2". Since I have started using a dynamic release my chrono speeds are much closer to Blacky's #'s. Now I understand why he uses a clicker, you release at the auditory signal while continuing your draw. If you want more exact only a shooting machine will do.
I have bought 30 or so major longbows in the last 3 years and sold them all. I was chronographing all of them using the same arrow with a average for each bow.Most of these bows were my draw weight. I was reading TradGang reports and any others I could find to find what kind of fps they were shooting and out of all those bows they were within 5-10 fps, with none of them being close to what I had read they should do and I draw a constant 28".
Most of the 47# bows showed about 155 to 160 fps with a 550 grain arrow, so I searced for a faster one which is not the thing to do. I have settled on one that is so quiet that when you shoot a big buck or hog and he runs off, the other deer or hogs just keep feeding. This longbow is also very very acurate and I love the looks of it. I love this bow! Ken
I've taken quite a few bows and out shot(speed)there owner useing a cono.some as much as 10 feet a second.So it's defently your release.I build,shoot,hunt alot with selfbows and I say people that stwitch over your a compound go through the speed and distance thing.It won't make you a better hunter.
DEAD IS DEAD NO MATTER HOW FAST YOUR ARROW GETS THERE.
Worrying about speed means your not haveing the fun you should be haveing.
When chasing speed, a lot of bowyers will be using thin, low stretch strings. The bow will be shot out of a machine using a mechanical release. The conditions are not such that you can duplicate normally, and no where close to set-up for hunting. Some test more realistically.
Speed is okay if it is made to fit the rest of the package. To obtain one without the other is a bow that is out of balance to me. I had a custom bow once that was fast and unfortunally that was all it was. It was noisy, harsh in hand, and I was not consistant with the thing, I sold it and went back to my super kodiak. Why? Because the Kodiak was no where as fast as the other bow. The kodiak was fast enough, quiet, stable and smooth to shoot and consistant.
In addition to draw length, release, and potential string material and size differences that others have already mentioned, don't overlook that (at 10 gpp vs 9 gpp)you're also shooting an arrow that's about 50 grains heavier than the test arrow.
I chronoed one bow in my life about 30 years ago. It was supposed to shoot about 190 fps plus at my draw length and I "only" got 180 fps. For the next few months, I was overdrawing considerably trying to get more speed out of the bow, and my accuracy went to pot. Finally said the hell with it and never looked back.
It's sort of like EPA auto gas mileage estimates. If measured the same, which they supposedly are, they make for a nice comparison among various vehicles. However, few people get the mileage advertised,
"fast is fine....but accuracy is final" Wyatt Earp
:archer:
I found out a long time ago the only numbers that really matter are your own.:)I am usually pretty close on test such as Blacky's myself but I have a good release and use skinny strings.Back tension during the release can easily make 10fps difference in results.I will shoot any bow a consistant 15fps faster than my buddy even with our draw lengths being the same.He tends to creep a little. :)
My release must really stink, I recently got a chronograph and tested both longbows I own - I draw around fifty pounds on both and both shoot between 140-152 fps - arrow weight changes it, I tested everything from 510-590 grains. KE stays around 23 or 25 and I can reduce brace height and get to the 25. Made me want a recurve again - it is what it is - no big deal. In addition I have tested a glove verses a tab and did gain a little speed with an Alaskan golve with cordovan finger tip overlays - my tabs are cordovan as well.
I was going to check the difference between a glove and a tab as well. I currently use a deerskin glove that is a little worn. Thanks for the info guys.
Orion and SSWV hit it dead on... The truth is we never get the report speeds. Most advertised speeds are shot with mechanical releases and unfletched arrows. If you calculate, hand release and fletching alone, you will find a 25 or so fps drop. Ultimately, speed is not significant. Animals will ALWAYS be faster than arrows. Try to get the bow as quiet and accurate as possible with a deep-penetrating arrow. That is MORE important IMHO :)
My cousin and I have done some chrono testing. Same bow, same arrow, even the same tab, same draw length, and he will consistantly get 5-10 fps more than I because he has a cleaner release.
Speed isnt important, but Ive never been dissapointed by any numbers Ive seen.
Kid
I've been telling anyone who asks about the speed on my light flat bows that if they really, really want an extra 6 fps, just run toward the target as they shoot! :D I got real interested in speed about 6 to 8 months back, then i figured out it's all a game, with just enough variables that everyone can win. The arrow gets there when it gets there. The important thing is whether its "there" is your "there". Relax and smell the flowers, or, in our terms, watch the arc of the arrow. Now me, I like to enjoy a good smoke while the arrows's on its way.....