I shoot BW 51 lbs @ 28". I draw about 28.25-28.5, I think, that is if I am measuring correctly. I am shooting GT 55-75, 125gr ft with another 50gr weight on insert. I have 5 " featers with 9 " wraps. I am a right handed. I have my arrows cut 28 5/8, I am to the point where my BH will hit my bow at full draw, but this is the only length that I can get good arrow flight (bareshaft). Anything longer causes my bareshaft tail of arrow to fly to the left, which means under spine, right? Does adding that 50 gr weight to the front weaken that arrow that much? I would really like to have a longer arrow to stay out of the bow with my broadhead. Any suggestions would be appreciated, I am still extremely green at this trad. Hope all is well, GOD BLESS!!!
I'm shooting 2 widows that are 52 & 53 lbs @ 28 & a 30.5" 55/75 with 225gr up front was overspined for me,I changed to a 35/55 with 225gr up front & the rest is history....been shooting the 35/55 ever since with the best arrow flight I've had.....If you cant you bow quite abit the tail left can also be your nocking point....My guess is your overspined,but I'd get some of the more seasoned guys on here to give ya some advise....
thats what I was thinking 35-55 but I don't know because I don't shoot that heavy.
I'm glad I saw this, I need arrows for this season and I was about to order the gt55-75's. I shoot 51 lb recurve @28". I draw 28.5" I was planning on a 30" arrow with 250 grains up front. All of that figures out perfect in the dynamic spine calc but if im going to be over spined I don't want and cant afford to waste the money. I will be watching this thread close....
--c--
I would also agree that you are overspined. You are probably getting the tail left due to the arrow bouncing hard off the strike plate. If I were shooting that bow and arrow combo, I would need to leave those 55/75s 30" long and shoot 350 grains up front. I could probably shoot that arrow out of a 70# bow. I do generally shoot lighter spines than most though. Do you have any longer shafts, or have you cut them all down?
Caleb, you are probably close on your guestimate.
I am shooting a BW 50@28 and using GT 5575 cut to short of 29" and using 3 gr pr " weight tubes + 14,6 gr inserts and 150 gr. silverflame broadhead and they fly like darts with this bow( my draw is 28,5"). Total weight is 525-530 gr.
Also tried with lighter bh but i have better flight with the 150 gr. When i shoot cedars i shoot 11/32 70-75# cut to near 29" with 5" feathers no wrap and a tophat adapter (40gr.) and 150 woodsman elite or a 150 silverflame. The cedars fly nearly as good as the carbons but i think they are a little light spined so i`ll try some 75-80# Probably i can use a longer shafts and get a better flight. Think the reason for the high spine is that the BW are cut 3/16 past center.
Have u tried to put a small skin behind the strikeplate to decrease the center cut?
Margly
The way people shoot effects the spine you need a lot.I could probably get rid of the brass and have that arrow work just fine for me.I need stiffer arrows than most.Of course the easiest fix is to change your centershot some and tune the bow to the arrow you want to shoot instead of buying more arrows.Once you learn to tune your bow instead of just trying different arrows most of these type threads would go away. jmo
5575's with 250 up front and 29" long shoot good out of my 62# Recurve----I think you may be overspined............
I have a 50#@28" self made T/D longbow. I was shooting 55/75 GT's with 225 up front (125 gr point and 100 grain brass inserts) cut to 29" and they flew excellent. I shoot split finger instinctive style, just for the record.
Over spined with the 5575. I had a 52 lb psa and drew 27.5 and used 29 in 3555 with 250 up front and did well with it. (540 grains in gt trads) I now shoot a 49 lb bob lee with that same arrow combo but also also shoot 5575 uncut with 275 upfront for combine weight of about 600 for hunting in Africa. The 5575 are stout arrows and when cut are even stouter. When I bare shaft carbons, I roughly pick th length of arrow I want and adjust the weights accordingly. I would suggest trying the 3555. My widow loved em and never took to the 5575.
agreed, overspined for sure!
ElkNut1
remember carbons are rated for wheel bows. a 55-70 carbon is for 55-70 wheelies.BIG difference between them and stick bows.
Think of it this way...55/75...is approximate and figured thusly: Full length (not cut) with insert and standard point (125/145) you will be near 55#. If you are at about 28" length, with same set-up, you will be spined for approximately 75 pounds. The numbers are ambiguous at best which is why a real deflection number is needed...not just .500 (which could be .480 to .550) or .400..which could be .380 to .450), but "real" deflection at 28" so one can adjust more reasonably.
Carbon arrow manufacturers have not seen the traditional light yet; they are still in the buy something close and add weight mode.
I have 28" GT 55/75. They have 100 gr brass inserts and even with a 170 tip on top off that, these arrows seem to be overspined for me at 58#.
For what it is worth, I have 3 dz of these arrows. There is as much as a 30 gr difference =/- within this group. I would expect that from wood, but not carbon. I have noticed how some of these arrows do come close to flying like darts, yet others demonstrat time and time again there is no hope of flying right. This leads me to believe that there could be spining differences also within this batch.
I know some folks out there love their GT. Good for them. I'm not hear to bash other's equipment, but just let me say, IMO, GT are junk.
Colt, one thing you will find with traditional archers is that they tend to be more inquisitive; looking into things and how those things work, either negatively or positively. I have friends who shoot compound bows who can't tell you how much their arrows weigh or what spine is involved; their pro shop guy takes care of all their needs. They are clueless as to how things work.
There are a few carbons out there that are not very consistent. You can tell by weighing them, but even more by putting them on a spine meter and checking spine around the shaft. The spine can change by simply rotating the arrow, and that indicates inconsistent wall thickness around that shaft.
There are good quality shafts out there (carbon) but you still need to sort. I would ask my supplier to weigh them before sending. My aluminum 2016 don't vary more than a grain or two from shaft to shaft.
And yes, they are stiff as heck. That's why so much front loading is needed for our bows that are not cut way past center. I would never put up with a 30 grain difference, even with wood.
I can buy them withing 4# spine, and about 5 grains of weight.
Use 100 gr brass insert and 250 gr field tip it will fly fine, you are way overspined with those light tips. :archer:
QuoteOriginally posted by Apex Predator:
I would also agree that you are overspined. You are probably getting the tail left due to the arrow bouncing hard off the strike plate. If I were shooting that bow and arrow combo, I would need to leave those 55/75s 30" long and shoot 350 grains up front. I could probably shoot that arrow out of a 70# bow. I do generally shoot lighter spines than most though. Do you have any longer shafts, or have you cut them all down?
Caleb, you are probably close on your guestimate.
I have some mor arrows that are uncut. You said it may be bouncing off plate and getting the tail kick, how do I cure this?
You cure it by putting a bunch more weight on the end of that short shaft. You could start with the full length ones and start adding weight to see what that gives you. If you leave them full length, you will need a lot less weight up front to get the spine right.
I'm just telling you what I think may be happening. Let your own results guide you. That, and some good advice should get you to where you need to be.
Chad, there is NO way a 3555 will work for you... 3555's are way to weak... Don't do it... NO disrespect to anybody here. I know Chad well and his bow, and a 3555 won't work.. I'd be willing to guarantee it...
You are way overspined. I shoot 3555's with 225 grains up front from with all of my recurves which are around 50@29 and use low strand ff strings with all of them.
I agree that I should be overspined, but why is it that my arrows are tail kicking to the left in flight?
I shoot 51 lbs at 28", and yes GT 5575 are to weak in spine with any weight up front. 29.5" GT 7595 with a total of 225 grains up front works great. Shoot what works for you, not what someone says you should shoot. I have shot stiffer spines than most others recommend since about 1972. It works for me.
The simple test is to put less weight on the front and see if it gets better or worse. Make the required changes based on that.
I was prepared to order gt35/55s from sipsey last year, but he convinced me to try the 55/70s for my jodie cole #50 longbow. The 55/70s are cut to 30 1/4" and I'm shooting 200gr (point+insert). They shoot great. I was afraid they would be too stiff, but no problems at all.
Steelhead
I am shooting a 52 lb bow and useing 55/75 gt arrows and am shooting better then I ever with these arrows!! I just got back from the range and am very happy with them. I useing a 145 gr tip works great. Just trying to help? :)
I shoot 5575's out of my 50# @ 29 inch Widows. Arrows are cut 30" BOP with a std aluminum insert up front and 125 gr. field tip.
I've never understood why some folks need a 1/2 pound of weight up front to make a carbon fly. But it does show that everyone is different.
Personally I think you just have too much weight hanging out front. I do not beleive you could get a 3555 to work with your setup. I would gradually reduce the amount of weight you have up front and see if you don't see improvements in flight.
One thing I learned long ago is there are no absolutes when it comes to what will fly and what won't.
Thanks for all the info