Trad Gang

Just wanted some opinions on this broadhead...

I think it's a classic. Have used it since it was a Zwickey Delta with a slot milled in it for the bleeder.
Depending on what you hunt with it and the set up you use it out of, you may want to think about it some.

I'm shooting 575- 600+ grain arrows at about 180 fps. No problems with penetration on even the bigger stuff.

Oh yeah! Rugged, easy to sharpen, quality manufacture and reasonable price.
 :thumbsup:    :thumbsup:    :thumbsup:    :thumbsup:

Why did I know Charlie would wake up for this one   :bigsmyl:

It's a great BH that will do anything you need it to do....

Wide and 4bl= good stuff    :thumbsup:

Easy to sharpen, quiet, flies great, leaves a BIG hole & tough as nails. Can't find a fault with 'em myself.  ;)

Thanks for the info guys I thought it would be a great head. I will be mounting them on douglas fir arrows.  
Does the point taper hold the bleeder in place.

Wow Ted, am I that predictable?   ;)  


""Does the point taper hold the bleeder in place.""

Not sure what that means. You'll need to "slot" the taper a little to get the bleeder in place.
Usually there will be a little excess hot melt get in the slot when mounting and I just heat the bleeder slightly and insert it. The hot melt holds it in place.

Ok  Charlie pardon my ignorance but, What does " since it was a Zwicky Delta " mean.
Did I miss something ?
 :knothead:

Tommy... it's part of the history/evolution of the Magnus I.

Originally Mike Sohm slotted Zwickey Deltas to accept a bleeder blade. I'm not sure of the exact process, but that's what he did.

Side note... at the same time Fred Asbell down in Colorado was doing the same thing, which is where I got my first broadheads of that style.

I don't know if Fred thought it just wasn't worth it or what, but when he found out Mike was doing it too, he started just getting the heads from Mike...and so did I.

There was a little squawking from Zwickey aimed at Mike Sohm who eventually started manufacturing the whole broadhead... making it slightly larger in the process.

I worked very closely with Mike in the early days and watched the broadhead line evolve.

Since sooner or later I am going to run out of my beloved Simmons I have been looking replacements.The 4blade Magnus one is in the running.  :)  I think it and the Deltas are about my only choices in large heads right now.This trend of every new head going smaller instead of larger today sucks for some of us.  :bigsmyl:

btw..Where is a good place to find the 4 blades.I see the two blades for sale at a couple places but never see a place to buy the 4 blade heads. thanks

They work great on hogs and are easy to sharpen.

James KK has the 4 blades listed in the catalog and they were on the website before the remodel, so i'm sure they still have them. I think Braveheart has them as well.

Ken

thanks Ken.I ordered some to try out.

I like them, but wish they would make a heavier version. Why dont they put slots in the 160 Gr Mag I 2 blade?

I much prefer the thicker tip on the 160 gr 2 blade vs. the 135 gr gr 2 blade.

BP

I have set of them and would like to use them, but I'm shooting a lighter bow this year.

Can anyone tell me FROM EXPERIENCE if 550 grains moving 166 fps will push these hatchets through a deer?

Yes

Thank you.  :thumbsup:

Naw Charlie , I just know that you love that set up, still remember hunting with you and Pete , both of you swore by that broadhead. I also remember the big hole and great blood trail it left when Pete shot a doe.

Bear... I pushed an arrow of that same weight and speed in one side and out the other of a bull elk. I suspect it will work on deer as well.
 :D    ;)

I'm thinking of trying this BH out also...actually this one and the 160 grain Magnus I 2 blade.

Is there a considerable difference in damage between the 4 blade and the 1 1/2" cut 2 blade Magnus I??

Mike

Though I prefer shooting the Magnus I with the bleeder in place, I won't hesitate to use it as a two blade and often do.

Yes there is a difference in the amount of cut since the main blade is 1 1/2" and the bleeder is 1 1/4". That's a substantial amount of extra cut.

Thanks! I didn't realize the bleeders were so wide. Looks to be a MEAN BH!

Mike

i shot the magnus 1s for a while now RobTattoo put me onto them
recently been playing with the Magnus 1 4 blades really really like them!!

Charlie
Thanks I never new that. I used zwickeys for years and have tried almost everything in my 30 plus years of bowhunting.
Remember the cookie cutters  serpentines deadheads
etc..
But now I use the magnus  something to be said for a head that is good enough to be bought only once.
Thanks for the answer.

Well the ones I ordered came yesterday.They look like they will do the job just fine.I hope to mount a couple and see how they shoot today.

Charlie,

Any recommendations as to how to slot the taper ?

Thanks,

Chris

Chris,

For wood shafts you can use a dremel with cut off blade, coping saw, hacksaw or bandsaw. Exacto makes a nice little hobby saw that works well also.  

For aluminum or steel, the Dremel cutoff blade is what I use. Quick and accurate. Hacksaw works as does a metal cutting blade in a band saw.

I usually dry mount the head in the position I want it and then using a shop knife I score through the slot on the ferrule to mark the adapter.
A pencil would work on a wood shaft.

When I mount them I like to use hotmelt cement. Heat the head and twist it around on the taper to evenly spread the glue.

I keep a bleeder handy and push it through when I have it lined up to make sure. When the head is cool I heat the bleeder slightly and pull it out to clear the slot.

I just used a shorter taper on cedars. Problem solved, right? If you buy the aluminum screw-in adapters for these heads they just have a shorter taper. I just made my wood taper the same. I realize that a "too-short" taper will compromise the joint integrity, causing the head to potentially cock to one side upon impact. But that has as much to do with proper arrow flight/tuning as anything. To me it seems like enough taper for a solid joint.

Charlie got me interested in the Mag 1's a year or so ago After my Simmons Interceptors got hard to find....My buddy Conan started shooting them also...We've killed 8 whitetails and nine hogs with Mag 1's with the bleeders..Needless to say we love them and THANK YOU Charlie!!! (http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/CIMG3366.jpg) (http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/CIMG3362.jpg) (http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/CIMG3369.jpg) (http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/Solana09117.jpg) (http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/CIMG3269.jpg) (http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/CIMG3258.jpg) (http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/CIMG3256.jpg)

(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k209/rickybob_2006/DSC00270.jpg)

Wow know I see why they call them flying hatchets Magnus 1 will be in my quiver this fall.

Yeah Don, the only bad part is if a guy gets queezy at the sight of blood.
 :bigsmyl:

Thanks Charlie for providing info on real experiences in killing animals with the head in question.  It sure is refreshing with all the speculating running rampant by those that don't have any experience.

Could a filter be created for bow/arrow/string posts that aren't backed by experience?   :D  

Those of us still lacking a lot of kill experience with arrows need to pay attention to those who have. I encourage all the newbies to consider the sources. Everyone here is well intending, friendly, and usually descriminating, intelligent bowhunters. But that don't mean we know what any given head/bow/string/arrow will do to flesh and bone.

Theres a few fellers here who do know, cause they they've done it... a lot.

And lets not forget the wildcard factor. All of us who have rifle hunted know that you can put a centerfire rifle round through the goodies of two deer in a row... one drops dead, the other runs 65 yards spraying blood. And then theres the heart shot deer that hardly bleeds.

Just do your best. DONT OBSESS. Quit tinkering and enjoy what you have.

Bear... thanks for being a voice of reason. You hit the nail on the head.
 :thumbsup:

Yes Bear, there is disscusion going on about how to solve the problem. Folks with experience will NOT be challenged and run off TradGang by non-experienced people that do more hunting of letters on a keyboard than in the woods. That was one of the many reasons Tradgang was started as it was a huge problem on another site and one reason for the growth here.

:thumbsup:

Brian P, Contact them and tell them you'd like to see the 160 grain version slotted. They don't feel the demand is there to justify offering them. Greg

Bear Quest III

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj8/fatman60/BearQuest075.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj8/fatman60/BearQuest074.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj8/fatman60/BearQuest061.jpg)

Here's a few taken with those big Magnus 4 blades last season....

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/woodwizard/markscoyote.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/woodwizard/Mdoe2.jpg)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/woodwizard/Kbull3.jpg)

great pix guys     :thumbsup:

Sweet

Great pics on the "effeciveness" of these bheads. They look very similar to the Zwickey Delta 4 blade which I am going to try this fall.  Will use the 170 gr screw in.  Have used the Magnus 145 gr 4 blade before and had great luck but have chged to carbons, heavier FOC and want to go with a screw in as I am not a great glue on technician LOL.

Brent, you'll love the Zwickeys also...Do you know Larry Smith ?

so how would one get the bleeder in if using a long aluminum adapter?

Also can someone post a couple of pics fromt he front of the broadhead ( as if you are looking at it coming towards you.) I want to see how wide these bleeders are. Also can the bleeders be resharpened?

I have the 160's in 2 blade but this has me seriously thinking of trying the 4 blade.

I would guess that you'd have to slot the longer adapters with a dremel. I use the short 75gn steels, so I have no experience with the alloys. Charlie may be The Man to ask about those.

The bleeders are really simple to re-sharpen & big enough that it's not too fiddly a job.

I tried getting you a 'head-on' photo, but it's really difficult to see the head at all. Hope these are OK instead.....

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/robtattoo/Magnus1002.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/robtattoo/Magnus1003.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/robtattoo/Magnus1001.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/robtattoo/Magnus1004.jpg)

good pics, Rob, don't those things just LOOK medieval?

oh, also, I like your tailgate.....you're gettin' the hang of this....   :thumbsup:

QuoteOriginally posted by fatman:
oh, also, I like your tailgate.....you're getting the hang of this....   :thumbsup:  

:biglaugh:

DW - sorry.  Don't know "Larry"

Rob thats exactly what I needed to see. Thanks!!

Rob's pics covered it pretty well. Here's a couple I had layin around.

   (http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/Magnushole.jpg)
   (http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/holeinheart.jpg)
 (http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/MooseBlade.jpg)

Comparison of Magnus I to Wensel Woodsman...
   (http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/magnuswoodsmanoverlay.jpg)

The long aluminum adapters are easy to slot with a dremel tool or hacksaw. Metal cutting blade on a coping saw works great as well.

I remember seeing that pic of the scapula (Moose I think?) with a hole in it. Dont suppose you remember the specs as far as bow weight and arrow weight on that one do ya?

BP

:campfire:

Brian... I don't remember the specs. Seems like it was around 60#, but don't hold me to it.

Yes. Moose scapula.  As far as arrow weight goes it depends on what size aluminum that is, but most likely it's a 2216 or 2219. That would put it in the 575- 650 range.

Thanks Charlie. Maybe someone else will remember.

A couple years back I put a 160 MagnusI thru a whitetail scapula. I was using a 59# Bamboo Backed Osage bow with cedars of about 620 gr.

I recently switched to a 50# recurve and will be shooting carbons that weigh in about 630 gr. Just curious what this set up is going to be capable of.

BP

I bought some Magnus 1 heads last week and have been testing them for 2 days now and the verdict is still out.

On the one hand I love the big cut but on the other I am getting inconsistent arrow flight.  Some shots show weak and others show stiff.  Of course that could be me but I have never had this much random shot placement before.

I'm taking a break but in a little while I'm going back out with the Mag 1 and two arrows with flield tips to see how they group.  

I'm shooting 51 lbs and my arrows are CE 150 with 195 gr up front with either the Mag 1 or field tips.  Total arrow weight is 686 gr.

Don't take this as a knock against this head.  I'm still tinkering with the set up.  If I can get it to work for me I know I will be using it this season.

Pac... tuning can be critical with this head, though I've never had an issue with it.
Make sure the head spins absolutely true on the arrow first.

Make sure there is adequate fletching with substantial helical or offset.

Anytime you have a "solid" blade of this size it can be prone to planing if your tuning is a little off.
Get the details worked out and they fly as straight as anything out there.

Charlie you are right on the money.  I checked all 6 of my heads and only one spun perfectly.  I took it outside and it shot true.

Guys this was the 1st time I have ever mounted a broadhead on an adapter so i could use it on my carbons or aluminums for that matter.  Any tips for getting the adapter glued in place perfectly straight?

Make sure that the glue is evenly distributed around the taper. It's been my experience that that is what causes most alignment problems.

Make sure the ferrule is hot enough to make the glue run easily then twist it at least two complete revolutions before final seating.

This will make some guys groan, but I like to put the point on something like my vice in the shop and tap the adapter LIGHTLY with a hammer.

Not so hard that you deform the tip of the broadhead.

Using steel adapters you can be a little more "assertive".

It's the odd adapter or broadhead ferrule that doesn't match up with the other.

Ok got my heads glued on straight and test fired each one.  Very happy now except my 3d deer target is about cut in half.  There is no doubt in my mind these are going to be deadly!  They are not called "Flying Hatchets" for nothing.

Last question.  I sharpened up 1 head and also did the bleeder blade.  I had a tough time seating the bleeder blade without cutting myself.  Is there a safe way to do this?

Pliers  :D

Good stuff again Charlie on the glue .....I spIn my heads 4-5 times(I use epoxy), and then spin the arrow back off the adapter and have myself a look to make sure it's eveny dispersed before I seat it for spinning.

I do the same, hold my BH's with a pair of pliars and heat after applying hot glue to the adapter and spin it several times till it seats and spins perfectly.

I personally don't use epoxy on my BH's because it seems that there are very slight variances from arrow to arrow. I find that most can't be switched from one set of arrows to another....sometimes they just don't spin perfect....not sure if it's a not so perfect cut are a insert issue...

I number the arrow and BH and only use them together.So if I take them apart (unscrew)for travel or something...I just match them back up...spin check again and good to go!

I've never had a bh come off an adapter using the hot melt I use.....

Easily heat reversible when needed.....

Curt, where do you get those green glue sticks?

I got them from the pipeline job I was on....I'll send you some bud.

I want to get more for giving to friends and for own use. Thy're a 3M product that's used to repair dings in pipe before backfilling.

Awesome stuff for arrows...steel or alum. adapters or woodies....best I've ever used!

Working on getting more now....