Starting a set of Arrow Dynamics Carbon shafts and wondering if anyone has any suggestions on squaring them up after cutting to lengt?
I've seen the G5 ASD tool, but it seems a bit spendy for what it does, wondering if there are any alternatives/home made devices you use to get the same results?
I use the G5 and feel it is worth the money. Not sure what else you could rig up.
I just put a piece of extra fine wet / dry sandpaper on the work bench and then just hold the arrow carbon shaft tip down onto the sandpaper and rub.
this seems to do the same as the tool.
For shafts like the Axis with hidden inserts, the squaring tool may be of some value. But if you're using shafts where your inserts go out to the tip of the shaft, it's pretty much a waste of money.
It depends on how you cut them.To cut a shaft square you need to be able to rotate the shaft as you cut.Thats how the more expensive arrow saw cut,you rotate as you cut.I use a Harbor Freight mini chop saw and made a jig,and on the adjustable stop block I drilled a taper hole with a chamfer bit.The taper keeps the nock end centered but allows me to rotate the shaft.I just bring the saw blade into the shaft and then rotate it as I cut.The saw blades last longer because you are not trying to cut all the way through a clamped shaft and you get a square cut.
Well, after seeing the difference it makes on getting broadheads to spin true after truing the shaft and insert face I wouldn't call it a waste of money. To each his own.
G-5 all the way!
I took a square piece of teflon about 1" thick, drilled a hole (using a drill press). Then I lay a piece of fine grit wet/dry sandpaper underneath it. Just make sure you are on a flat surface, stick the arrow in the hole and spin it.
I have to agree with Jason on this one. Your insert goes inside the shaft and is square to the shaft. Unless you cut the ends of the arrow at a 45 deg angle, your insert should be square. Just use sandpaper or a dremel tool to get it close and the insert should take care of the rest.
At least this has been my experience.
QuoteOriginally posted by Masham Man:
I took a square piece of teflon about 1" thick, drilled a hole (using a drill press). Then I lay a piece of fine grit wet/dry sandpaper underneath it. Just make sure you are on a flat surface, stick the arrow in the hole and spin it.
Simple, effective & pretty darn foolproof. Like it :thumbsup:
It's the squareness of the shaft tip, and insert face and broadhead insert face that sets the primary alignment true. The ASD G5 is worth the money in my opinion.
I vote for the ASD also.
If the broadhead or field tip does not seat squarely on the shaft walls, it will not spin true, and if it does at first, it won't for long. (internal inserts, carbon)
The arrow (carbon) is less likely to split, or break if the shouldered type insert seats fully against the shaft walls of a carbon shaft.
The ASD works quickly, and does a good job. Even though I have a lathe, the ASD gets the nod for truing up carbon and aluminum shafts.
QuoteThe arrow (carbon) is less likely to split, or break if the shouldered type insert seats fully against the shaft walls of a carbon shaft.
My feelings exactly.
I use my Dixon broadhead aligner. I put a Dremel abrasion disc at the point end and spin the arrow until I am happy. Works great and I don't need ANOTHER tool.
Well, decided to use the $50 gift card for the big Sportsman's Store up the street and bought the G5 ASD and some other goodies. Pretty simple device.
I assume you square up both the Bare carbon shaft and then the insert outside edge of the insert as well.
"I assume you square up both the Bare carbon shaft and then the insert outside edge of the insert as well."
Yup, you've got it Buck. One face of the cutter for "sanding" the carbon shaft, then the opposite face for "milling" on the aluminium insert.