I got some Beman MFX off the classifieds that some of the brass inserts weren't seated deeply enoughand leave about a 1/16th inch gap. I can use the 5 grain weight washers, but the seller says they were installed with hot melt. I'm not wild about heating carbons, but if I try will an alcohol lamp do the trick?
Alcohol lamp should work fine. Screw in a field tip and heat the end.
Dont heat the shaft, put a field point in and heat that up. Once the point is hot, grab it with some plyers and it should pull right out!
Heating the shaft will damage it.
I prefere to use a candle lower temperature it takes just few second more and does nt heat the carbon too much.Heat the field point not the shaft
even a plumber's torch will work, trick is not to get it too hot. Heat a little at a time and then grip the fpoint with pliers and with a twisting motion see if it moves, once it moves continue to twist and pull it right out. Or in your case where it's not seated deep enough, just screw the fpoint in and heat and then push it against something hard, heat a little more, push some more, until it seats all the way.
Or just hold the tip in boiling water for 10-15 seconds, and then pull it out with pliers. I've removed hundreds of them this way, and never damaged a carbon shaft.
I heat a field tip very hot, THEN I screw it in while trying to pull out the insert. This allows only enough heat to get to the glue to loosen the tip. I have even done tips that were Goat Tuff'd in.
If you heat the tip while it's in the shaft, you don't know when to start pulling and can ruin the shaft.
I've used a heat gun on low, but you only need it for about 15-20 seconds. However, having now seen it, I think I'm switching to McDave's method. That sounds really safe.
Screw in the heaviest field point you have, for mass and length (I use 250 grainers). Heat the very tip with an open flame. The heat conducts quickly down into the insert, so don't over do it, as everyone else has warned, even before the field point and insert begin to move, remove from heat and allow the heat to conduct into the insert. By doing this you'll avoid over-heating. Seat to your desired depth by pushing in against workbench top. This process can done any number of times w/o harm to the carbon shaft, provided you don't over-heat. I always cool the field point and arrow in cool water immediately after seating. This allows you to touch field point and helps contract the steel of the field point shaft so it unscrews w/o sticking to the inside of the shaft wall from any residuel glue.
Hint: When seating or reseating inserts, use hot glue sparingly, as excess glue will be forced up the length of the insert and into the inside of the shaft, making it difficult to screw anything out, or in. I always wipe excess glue from insert before final seating. I use Kimsha Quick-Stick on 100 grain brass inserts in Beman MFX 400's & 500's, it is an awesome system and allows for flexibility! It also works for aluminum inserts but reqires a little more time for the heat to act on the aluminum, as it is less dense then brass. I guess we've killed this subject :)