when bare shafting is it better to end up alittle on the stiff side.
thanks
mike
weak
I would guess it depends on how long your bareshaft arrow is. If it's weak you can shorten it a little at a time to dial it in if you have the length. If it's stiff add weight to the point...easier maybe.
Slightly weak for sure. Remember that fletchings will have the effect of stiffening the shaft. So, if you finish bareshafting with a shaft that hits weak by about 3-4 inches, you should be dead on when you add your feathers.
Claudia
thanks for the help
Being in the archery business over the years I have always been able to get a stiff arrow to fly but not a wqeak spine that never recovers..
stiff you can add tip weight etc.
I reckon there's more room for error on the stiff side of things; way too stiff still flies (just try shooting one of your own arrows out of a kid's bow); a little weak is okay, too, but any more and they'll be all over the place (especially with broadheads). Well, they're my observations.
Slightly weak when bareshafting. Fletching and broadheads will stiffen the arrow slightly.
My bare-shafting set has 125 g. points, so I go a little stiff to compensate for heavier broadheads.
Dan Quillian thought it was better to be a little stiff, because slightly stiff arrows shoot better (more accurately) than slightly weak ones.
stiff
JMHO, but I was taught to be ever so slightly weak on the bareshaft for several reasons. As pinecone and vermonster have already said you are adding about 30-40 grains to the back of the arrow with feathers which stiffens the spine. Also most people in a hunting situation with extra clothes, cold, buck fever, etc, etc; tend to short draw a little too. All these issues add up to a potentially stiff arrow. Again, JMHO.
nocams
QuoteOriginally posted by Pinecone:
Slightly weak for sure. Remember that fletchings will have the effect of stiffening the shaft. So, if you finish bareshafting with a shaft that hits weak by about 3-4 inches, you should be dead on when you add your feathers.
Claudia
Claudia is spot on!!
The lady is right, as usual. The bare shaft should be slightly under spined.
so from what i gather its a matter of opinion some like it on the stiff side and some like it on the weak side.
thanks
mike
ur right , I meant slightly week...
A lot of it is subjective, depending on your shooting style and type of bow, among other things.
Mike ,
When Bare shafting you do need to be a "tad" weak as most have said . BUT for a arrow already fletched with points or broadheds ready to hunt , being a little stiff is better than being a little weak if that makes any since to ya .
Mike
Ken Beck says it is better to be a little over spined. But I try to never disagree with a lady who has killed a lot more animals than I have.
I would try OL's method of three bare shaft and three fletched shafts for shooting, and getting them to group together.
Rick Welch says it is better to be a little under spined, and I wouldn't disagree with a man who has won as many tournaments as he has. I wonder though....obviously being as good an archer as he is, he must have a near perfect release. Could that have anything to do with why he prefers an underspined arrow, whereas that might not work out as well for the rest of us?
Somebody explain "add fletching to stiffen the arrow". WHAT ABOUT THE ARROW THAT IS FLETCHED!!! We're shooting bare shafts and fletched then looking at the difference in impact. To me that statement doesn't make sense.
Bowmania
I want my bare shafts flying a little weak! Stiff arrow's are(for me) very unforgiving. I've had bare shafts they grouped with fletched back to 60 yds...and yet that setup never grouped as well, as much weaker shafts .
According to those who know way better'n me, (and I quit expecting things that are right to make sense...logic doesn't always follow correctness) :) ...according to those who know, fletching "corrects" for minor spine differences...influences paradox enough. What you want to do is find how your arrow is shooting "raw". Bare shafts do that and by comparing the fletch POI to the bare POI, you see what "difference" there is between your bow, release and that arrow set up by comparing the bare to fletched impact points.
I shot arrows that were "ok" for many years...but they were on the tail of the standard bell curve of what arrow would work...so under hunting conditions, if I short drew, or was out of position in a stand, I could easily get errant arrows because I didn't have much error margin in my spine set up to start with. Critters deserve better'n that. :(
Using the bare vs. fletched... changing what was needed on BOTH till the bare show slightly.. slightly weak... I found a arrow/bow combo for me that was more in the 'middle' of the bell curve of balance in spine and I had more margin of error for a errant release, etc.
You want a good explanation, Bowmania? Go to OL Adcock's website and read, then print out and re-read several times, his entire tuning guide.
It'll make sense. :)
I prefer weak on anything I plan on hunting with.I want good flight at an inch or so shorter draw that I normally use.I know ME. :)I tend to be in short draw situations from treestands at times so allow for it when tuning.To me nothing is worse than a stiff arrow when a deer wants to walk too close to the stand. jmo