just wondering if the center of the shaft is the best place for the joint verses say 1/3 from the front end say? made some with joint in the center and they fly great but wondered if anyone has tried other locations?
thanks
What does that do to the spine? What do you need a take down arrow for? What type of shafts?
I saw one once in a survial kit.
I think there are a couple of articles in TBM about these arrows. You might try to look at thier site to find out which issues the articles are in.
Lucas
Badger- the article I remember was about hunting Mountain Lion the author said that the smaller broken down arrows were easer to travel with.
44charlie,what kind of harware are you using to connect them? Got any pictures?
i've used wooden dowels and plastic tubing. if you like some pic's i'd be happy to send some if you give me your email.
Well I'll toss out a bit of hackneyed theory...would one want the connections at the two node points? Just a thought.
Easton made this for a time during the Rambo craze. I have one here... Imagine a tent pole with shock cord holding the two tubes together over a aluminum junction.
I've made and still use takedown arrows. I take a 2213 aluminum shaft, cut it in the middle and splice the two ends together with a 3" 2018 shaft. I also make some t/d arrows using a 2117 shaft splicing the ends together with a 3" piece of carbon shaft. These arrows fly like darts out of my bow.
I'm sill wondering :)
"What do you need a take down arrow for?"
I have made a few, with 2216 shafts and a 2018 insert. I always put the joint in the center of the shaft, because it just seems logical.
That gives you the shortest bundle when it's taken apart, too, which is the point, after all.
I have one here that is all carbon. It is in the experimental stage I was told. The shaft is barrel tapered and just fits into itself. It is a heavy shaft (550 grains with 125 grain field point). It flys pretty good out of my longbow and my Bear TD. It is made for hunting. I hit a solid object with it (rock) while the shaft did not break I can no longer take it apart.
I was told because of so many carbon shaft choices on the market already the maker may pass on selling these shafts. To bad a one piece shaft as heavy as these are would have a place in the Trad market. IMHO
Coaster500,
You asked "What do you need a take down arrow for?"
Here's when I use them:
(1) I hunt wood lots in subdivisions. There are a lot of people that do not approve of hunting, any kind of hunting. So when I hunt those wood lots I like to travel from my vehicle to the woods not appearing to be going hunting. I can fit my t/d recurve and 3 t/d arrows in one of my kids old school backpacks along with camo clothing needed and other necessities. As far as the people know, I'm just out for a stroll.
(2) Sometimes I hunt using my bicycle. I need to pack as compact as I can, especially if I'm going on an overnight trip. Having t/d arrows really help.
Good luck,
Murray
I would buy some takedown arrows if they were available. My arrow is longer than the limb or riser of my takedown bow. Takedown arrows would fit better in a suitcase for travelling on airplanes, or in a backpack for taking the occasional rabbit or squirrel to supplement the pot on a backpacking trip when you'd just as soon not advertise the presence of a bow and arrows. It would be nice if they could be reused, but I would probably still buy some even if they jammed after one shot.
McDave,
You stated "...but I would probably still buy some even if they jammed after one shot."
The arrows I made do not jam after one shot. I shoot them pretty regular at targets and have never had any of them jam together. What I have had happen is the front end of the arrow exit the deer while the back end stayed in the body cavity.
Murray
You can give Bob Burton at Whispering Wind Arrows a call, I know he can make them.
A
I think Don Thomas uses them for lion hunting. A while back he was busting his hunting buddy Rosie by with a pic in one of his lion hunting articles in TBM of him trying to put two point ends of an arrow together with a caption saying "Rosie struggles with the intricacies of the takedown arrow"
I have thought about takedown arrows for a long time.The other day I played around with an idea using aluminum insets and it seems to work pretty well.This is a screw together joint that shouldn't come apart with pass throughs.
To keep all broadheds aligned the same,you might have to number the shaft sections.
I just ordered an arrow saw so in a few days,I will try to get one made and some pictures of the process.
Here is a picture of the joint.If you have a small drill press,it takes a few minutes to make one and the cost is $1.15 per arrow (2016). (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/Take-DownArrows.jpg)
I was playing around and made a few of these, I might use them for backpacking.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/kingwouldbe/DSCN0502.jpg)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/kingwouldbe/DSCN0506.jpg)
I went to the range and shot these out to 40-45yds and I was vary surprised how well the flew, made my Bow dead quite
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/kingwouldbe/DSCN0512-1.jpg)
765 grains 29" with EFOC 27% :scared:
It has a 1716 over a .230 carbon with a 2018 footing over the 1716.
I did use spare parts to make these, if you have broken arrows there great for the back end and I used about 3-4 pieces covered in Gorilla glue shoved in the front.
The back end slides in about 3-4" nice and tight, this is my first try, I will try some others later.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/kingwouldbe/DSCN0500.jpg)
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w27/kingwouldbe/DSCN0498.jpg)
Here's what mine looks like. I used a 2213 shaft with 3" 2018 shaft to splice it together, with one end glued in. It's hard to see the 2018 splice cause it's the same camo. I can put both of those arrows with broadheads into that black piece of tubing for easy carrying.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/Trooper_026/MVC-001F.jpg)
This picture shows how compact it can be. In that green bag I have my Fred Bear t/d bow with 6 takedown arrows. The brick is there just so you can have something to judge the size by.
(http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w129/Trooper_026/MVC-003F.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by JimB:
Here is a picture of the joint.If you have a small drill press,it takes a few minutes to make one and the cost is $1.15 per arrow (2016). (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/Take-DownArrows.jpg)
That's an AWESOME idea. How well do they fly and how did you make the male end of the joint?
TROOPER, I love your little bundle that is way cool
CO_Redneck,I turned down a short broadhead adaptor till it fit in the aluminum insert and JB Welded it in.I haven't made a real arrow yet so haven't shot one.I will try to make a couple in the next few days and post pictures of the process.
Here are some parts.You can see the short adaptor and one that was turned down,before it was inserted in the aluminum insert. (http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/Take-DownArrows001.jpg)
Very nice! What method did you use to 'turn down' the short broadhead adapter? Bench grinder?
I chucked the smooth shank of the broadhead adapter in a small drill press and held my mill,broadhead file against the side of it.
I kept one of the inserts handy and when I got close,I stopped the press and tried the insert for fit.After that,it is just one or two file strokes and check again.It only takes a couple minutes.
You also have to make sure the insert flange isn't wider than the shaft.
For this,I used a cutoff piece of shaft,put the insert in it and chucked the shaft piece in the drill press.Just a couple strokes with the file and the flange is flush.
JimB, I have to try your set up, I like how it will screw together.
Question: has anyone noticed a spine change in there T/D shaft.
I have not bare shafted mine, but they shoot like lazier beams, dead straight.
I haven't made one to shoot yet but planned on putting the joint dead center in the flexing area of the shaft ie. halfway between the back of the insert and the nock.
It will add maybe 50-60 grains but I am hoping won't affect spine much.It may stiffen them a little but it wouldn't hurt my feelings if I had to add a little more weight up front.