I've gone back and looked at a number of posts on AD carbon shafts. Its seems as if the Tradlights break a lot more often than the Traditionals. Is this true or is it just a perception that I picked up in the posts? If it is true, should I go with the heavier shaft even though my bow would probably shoot the Tradlights better? I have a 60" MOAB that is 55# at my draw length of 27".
I shoot the Traditionals out of a 58#, and a 62#longbow with no problems at all. I have them weighted up 360 gr up front. My friend shot one of my arrows and he shoots a 45# longbow. I havent seen the posts where "they break alot", Any concerns you may have contact Ted@raptor He is a sponsor here, he will be more then happy to talk with you about your questions, and concerns.
I never had any problems with the lites as they are the 1st ones I tried. Never broke a lot of them, however, I did switch to the Trad Heavies cause I wanted a heavier arrow. And so yes, more weight means more material, more material means more durability.
I don't see why you can't shoot the Trads out of that MOAB.
Wall thickness is what makes the difference with all the Arrow Dynamics shafts , Trad lite is thinner wall than the Trad so yes it would be less durable but should not be an issue as even the Trad lites are tough. My choice for what you are shooting would be either the Trad or Hammerhead ( even tougher) All would fly fine from your setup , just have to decide the mass weight you want.
I shoot the Trad Lites out of a Morrison Shawnee 54@27 and can't seem to break em. I stump shoot all the time shooting rocks, stumps, etc. and have not broken any as of yet(about 1 1/2 years now). I had one broke when my partner shot it on the side while stumpin and another when I buried a BH in a tree and tried to twist it out. But I have never broke one shooting or hitting something. Most durable shaft I've shot to date.
Mike
Tradlites cut 29" with 225 FOC will work from your bow. I haven't had anyone complain about the Trad lites breaking compared to the Trad Heavies.
I switched to nock adaptor for glue ons and that I like , dont break as many , other wise you will go through some arrow nock!!!!!!!!!!
I'll 2nd the nock adapters. I also use brass inserts on the business end. maybe this is why I never break them.
Thanks, I've learned a lot.
Here's an option that I will offering for the AD wood grain shafts. It's an aluminum collar that gets put on before the insert. This will help out on those hard hits.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e358/BadgerArrow/P3220595.jpg)
I shoot the Trad Lites out of all my bows. I've lost a couple but have never broken one. If you don't need a real heavy arrow, you can't go wrong with the Lites.
Paul,
That aluminum collar needs a taper on the back end too so we can pull it out of targets! I hate a flat shoulder on the rear of the arrow tip!!!! I have a bunch of AD Trad shafts that do not have the inserts glued in. I need to order some 100 grain brass inserts, and I would like to have the collars too if they were tapered at the rear end. Other than the taper issue, the collars look like a great idea.
Thanks,
Allan
I've been shooting the same dozen AD Trads for at least 2 years without a problem! 100 grn brass insert with 150 grn broadhead up front easton bushings with G nocks at the back, excellant shafts not a complaint!! Jason
Badger , you can also make a collar out of a 2413 Easton aluminum arrow , this way you can cut different lengths to fit what you want for weight as well. Allan very easy to take a file or sandpaper and make a slight taper on the back of the collar
I've been shooting the collars for a little while now and pull out of targets very easily. They are rounded over on the back edge and slide out nice. dino
These are machined collars, they have a shoulder on the inside that the shaft rest on. This helps to protect the shaft. It is not the same as using a piece of shaft. Allan, like dino said, they will pull out of a target easily.
Thanks for the clarification on the rear of the collars!
Allan
What size brass adapters are you guys using for the tradlites? I got some 5/16 but they are too small.
Only inserts made for the AD shafts will fit , sorry bowhuntah but you will have to get them from an AD dealer , happy to help you out as would any of the other dealers on here.
Is anybody using the steel to glue on kind?
I have been thinking on trying carbons so after some research and talking with Ted, I ended up getting a dozen Hammer heads. Used 125 gr adapters with 160 gr glue on points. Shooting a 64" R&D Long bow center cut, 59# at 28" pulling close to 28.5". Total weight 744 gr. arrows shoot great. Left them full length. Now all that said, they just don't feel like my woodies but I have to admit, maybe just a little more consistant.
Use JB Weld to install a brass insert and you will have no weakness in the shaft for the full length of the insert. Adding any additional external material that is shorter than the insert length will only add weight and diameter. Being that the shaft will be bonded to the full length of the brass insert resulting in a single unit, I doubt you will see any strength issues within that length.
Any footing added for the purpose of increased strength and reduced breakage would need to extend beyond the insert length. Externally the best option is a length of 2413 arrow shafting that is epoxied into place, but this does increase the external diameter of the shafting. I prefer an internal tapered footing which not only eliminates the increased diameter, but it also eliminates having an abrupt transition at the rear of the footing. Many times by adding a stiff external foot with an abrupt transition, you are only moving the weak spot directly behind the head/insert further back on the shaft without eliminating the weak spot:)
Best,
DB
Raptor archery has the 100 grain brass inserts for the AD's.