Ok,just got my new arrows today, went down to the shop, cut them to length, put my field tip on...perfect bare shaft flight out to 20 yards.
I cam home, put a wrap on the arrow and fletched it up and it seems about evey 3rd or 4th shot out of this arrow, it is hitting the shelf, making a loud slapping noise!
Shooting CX 250's cut to 29 1/2 in w, 200 gr field tip. My bow is a Black Widow PSR 58# @ 27 inches and my brace height is 7 3/4, the recommended brace height for this bow.
ANY THOUGHTS?????
You should bare shaft with the wraps on as for they will stiffen the arrow some as will the fletch.
VM, I did shoot it with the wrap, bare shaft, I failed to mention that. Even with the wrap and no fletchings, I didn't have this problem.
Have you been shooting a lot? You could have just fatigued your muscles and may be plucking or otherwise screwing up the release every once in a while.
Try a little point weight just to see what happens, sounds like they might be a little stiff.
My guess is STIFF also.
QuoteOriginally posted by jcarter:
Ok,just got my new arrows today, went down to the shop, cut them to length, put my field tip on...perfect bare shaft flight out to 20 yards.
I cam home, put a wrap on the arrow and fletched it up and it seems about evey 3rd or 4th shot out of this arrow, it is hitting the shelf, making a loud slapping noise!
Shooting CX 250's cut to 29 1/2 in w, 200 gr field tip. My bow is a Black Widow PSR 58# @ 27 inches and my brace height is 7 3/4, the recommended brace height for this bow.
ANY THOUGHTS?????
I do not have the experience of the rest of the gang here, nor the technical knowledge, but do shoot a lot every night and run into the "slap" noise often. Two elements change it; one pay attention to my bow hand, holding a little tighter, making sure that wrist is in good position, the second fix is to shoot cock feather "in" if there is a shaft that is not just right spine wise. Had a friend at shop sit while I shot and he could not believe the slap would go away when I shot cock feather in. Hope you find your solution, and sure there is a more technical solution.
Is the same arrow doing the slapping? Could be a bad arrow.
Raise your brace height by 1/4" and see if that doesn't correct the problem. Remember the suggested brace height is not an absolute only a starting point, you must tune from there.Also check your nock point as it could have slipped and that could cause down kick. Ben
Sence its slaping the shelf your string nock needs moved.Use'lly down if this happens to me.Unless it's hitting the side.Then it would be arrow spline.
J, "perfect bare shaft flight out to 20 yards."
If you used BW method of bare shaft tuning, odds are you are over spined. Hitting the riser is a classic sign. Up your point weight and see what happens....O.L.
If its only doing it on occasion,you may be torquing the string. Pull straight back to anchor making sure your string hand is in the same plane as the bow and string.
I had the same issue when I tried to put too much weight up front without cutting my shaft down. I used to shoot 29.5" arrows with 300 up front. I went up to 350 and had the same "clicking" sound you described. When I looked at my bow I saw a tiny mark where the arrow was touching the SIDE of my riser clear up frfont where the tip of the arrow is. So I cut my arrow a 1/4" at a time and when I hit 29"(1/2" less) it stopped. Never heard the noise again. My bareshaft was almost perfect as well. So basically I noticed my spine was too WEAK and had to stiffen it up. Now, alot of these guys are experts on here and they know better, so try there ideas first. If it doesn't work then this is just another option for you.
Mike
I had the same problem. I went to a deep hook
on the bow string and the riser slap went away.
It was the way I was putting uneven pressure on
the string. Just something else to try.
I used to do that, different grips, shallow hook, deep hook, finger pressure......Part of WHY we need to tune and why no one recipe works for all is the quirks in our "style". Changing something that comes natural to you to get the arrows to fly is like aiming somewhere else with a rifle instead of adjusting the sights! There are some things we can do that are bad and need to be corrected but they don't turn themselves on and off like a light bulb. Even very poorly spined arrows will group and fly well if we "do things just right", the goal with good tuning is so they fly and group better even if we do something wrong. Holding it this way or that, on one foot, only on Tuesday is not a cure. A properly tuned/adjusted bow, the arrow should never hit the riser no matter how bad we screw up.....O.L.
I say up your point weight about 50 grains if you are drawing 27"s, if you are drawing 28"s or a tad more than play with braceheight and nocking point. Shawn
make sure it is not one specific arrow
watch your release
-where on the shelf is your arrow hitting? Is it the outside edge?