Trad Gang

I'm lost right now. All my bows are 62" and 50 or 51# @28". I'm right handed. My woods fly great out of all them except for the bow I just recieved. The arrows are hitting way left, about 10"..The bow is cut past center. Do I need to build up the side plate? The aluminum arrows fly ok out of all the bows....Roy

Your arrows are too STIFF... No doubt at all.. Add point weight or switch to a lighter spine..


John III

I believe if you bow is cut past center you should build out the side plate.  The real guru's will know for sure and be able to guide you on this.  :)  

Bo

What JDS says is correct-too stiff; building out the side plate will make them stiffer still.
Go to the acsbows site and check out the 'knowledge base'. There is a lot of advice on tuning. Have fun.

I tried the side plate and that didnt help any. I'm using full length arrows with 160gr upfront now. I draw 30.5"s. What would you guys suggest? I dont have any points heavier and am going to have to buy them. If this helps any, I tried a maxima hunter 250 125gr tip, a 2018 150gr tip and a Axis 340 FMJ 125gr tip. All flew great.

First find out how far past center your shelf is cut..Are you bare shafting?

Go to three rivers and get the test kit I ordered it and it was here in less than 3 days.  Then you will know what point weight you need.  I don't know if you are shooting a bare shaft but that will really help to see what is going on.  If all else fails ask O.L.

No offense to the fellas above I believe they are correct.

could it be because your blind? aka the blind one

I think you can learn what shaft you need from the shafts you have.With a new bow there is a lot of questions .Lets answer one at a time.Just my opinion.  :p

You could be getting a false stiff. You may be getting riser contact causing them to kick left. If carbons that stiff are flying well, the woodies would need to be serious heavy spines to be stiff on your bow.

NightHawk, good question!  :biglaugh:

If the woods are too stiff, why would they fly ok out of my bows that arent cut past center? Wouldnt this make them even worse on these bows?

Not blind, but if you saw my Ex you would think I had to be  :scared:  ....

Translation: False stiff = way too weak.

Just so we're clear, is the bow you just received the same draw weight as your other bows? If it's lighter than your other bows, that could explain the problem.  If it's the same draw weight as your other bows, listen to Vermonster.

If the arrows are flying well out of bows that are cut less than center, and not the bow that is cut past center, they are too weak for the bow cut past center.  They are so weak that they are slapping the shelf and kicking way left.  Try an arrow 12 to 15 lbs stiffer spine out of the cut past center bow.

Its the same weight as the rest of my bows. I'm going to try something heavier in spine. I have a ton of alum but would rather shoot woodies.

i used to have a recurve that was not cut to center(first bow i owned) and shot it well. However, one day a friend and i took a ride up to 3 rivers and while we were there i deceided to try a few bows. I picked up a recurve cut past center and shot 10 inches to the right. I then picked up a longbow not to center and shot right where i looked. The 10 " is what caught my eye, i think it might be the difference between cut to center or not

I'd say your other are just center shot and this bow is.This makes your arorows to heavy splined.Build your shelf out to the came as others are.
  NO MORE PROBLEM.

But first try adjusting your brace height... make it higher. If that's the problem a mere 1/4" adjustment will show a difference.

I had a similar problem I shoot left handed and my arrows were hitting right with just one particular bow. I thought it was spine, but after going up and down the spine range it did not help. I thought it might be torque; I built the handle up with duct tape to make a higher wrist and palm swell. It made me put the preasure on the web of my hand, and the arrows flew great. I have worked more on how I hold the bow and been able to remove the duct tape.

Something else to toss out there. Would the limb design and being past center both combine to cause this? In the picture, I have my Dorado limbs with my new bow limbs. Are the new ones a kind of static limb? They arent as rounded all the way out. I know nothing about how the different designs effect a bow.

(http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr151/bones61427/100_0825.jpg)

stiff ???? woodies ????? omg.....  :biglaugh:    :biglaugh:    :D   sorry couldnt stop myself...  

Another thought, are the grips the same on the bows, for me if I place my hand on the grip to far to the right(right hander) that is closer to the center of the palm vs base of thumb, it will torque the arrow left. Different types of grips on bows may require slightly different hand positions to shoot well. So try putting the bow a little closer to the base of the thumb(moving your hand left), what have you got to loose. If its not that then my guess is the spine is the problem, closer to center shot needs a stiffer arrow, sometimes much stiffer.

Roy, I shot 55-60 spined shafts from that bow and they flew great. My draw length thou is 28". 3undr is a friend and we shoot together at his place and at shoots. He knows about that bow I sold you. At your draw length you are getting 58-59lbs from the bow. So you should probably be shooting 70-75lb. spine with a fast flight string on that bow. Mike in Ohio.

I'm with Charlie on this one. Twist your string up 6 full turns and see if the Arrows start coming back to the right, I don't think you have nothing to loose in trying it.

Rob

Limb on the left should be much more efficient than the one on the right.

QuoteOriginally posted by vermonster13:
Translation: False stiff = way too weak.

Or your viagra hasn't kicked in all the way...

Might want to test the bow poundage to see if it's marked accuratly.Although you would probaly notice the difference compared to your other bows.Sometimes your form can be a little bit compomised on a new bow until you get used to it..I bet if you ask the manufacturer about the shelf cut he might answer the question.Keep us posted  :thumbsup:

Not all 52# bows are created equal.  Heck I'm real surprised that you have that many that like the same arrow too start with.

An example is from a old friend of mine that was a great wood arrow builder.

In selecting spine he has a chart that was developed over the years.

Some 50# bows got 50-55 shafts, others got +5, and still others got +10.  When we were testing out new recurve we ended up with +15.

As you can see the number on the bow has little too do with the # on the spine meter.

What make of bow is the new one.  Maybe we can find someone in our midst that has one like it tuned up.  Our you could call the bowyer and ask for a recommendation.  I get that call quite often.

Mike

Thanks for all the help guys.. I have it shooting great now. I ended up with 2018's 31.5" long with 150gr up front(600 total). Im shooting with the cock in, for whatever reason they fly very good this way. They are very consistent unless I mess up on form. I gave up on the bareshafting. It was driving me nuts.....Thanks again, Roy