I am about to start tuning with wooden arrows. I never really liked paper tuning. It probably works just fine, but I always felt like spending the time to get good bare shaft flight at 15-20 yards produced better results once I fletched up.
That said, do you all have any shortcuts when bareshaft tuning wooden shafts, or do you glue on points, shoot, remove, retaper, and start all over when you want to adjust the shaft length?
Also, do you find that minor inconsistencies in individual shafts cause significant variation in bare shaft flight, thus making it difficult to really fine tune with wooden bare shafts?
Thanks.
If you plan to hunt you can shoot matching weights of field points and broadheads on fletched shafts.
Yes, glue on points, shoot, pull points to shorten if neccessary, re-taper...
Rusty
I feel happier with paper tuning and shooting for group with wooden arrows. I just got scared of launching featherless wood as I've had a few hit the target and snap.
I don't glue the points on when bareshafting. Just heat and push on hard-yeah I have lost a couple of points-no big deal.
Shoot into two pieces of 2" blueboard. They will stick out the other side and you won't lose points.
I haven,t bareshafted woods for awhile now, when I make them up I usually get them spined and weighed close and I leave them long, once I get the nock point set and they are flying with no porpise, then I group tune them. hopefully they fly right of bull, I,m right handed, then I start to cut them down and they will start to pull over to center, when I get them close I just mess around with the brace height until they go straight to where they are suppose to.
I agree bare shafting will get you close.But this'nt a short cut.To fine tune you have to still add your fleather,tips,or broadheads I should say.I've did this for so long I skip the bare shafting part.
I just shoot wide broadheads till I get them dialed in, it's the same as doing the planing tests.......O.L.
QuoteOriginally posted by O.L. Adcock:
I just shoot wide broadheads till I get them dialed in, it's the same as doing the planing tests.......O.L.
Hmmm... so no bare shafting? I shoot STOS. They're pretty wide. So get a shaft that's close, fletch 'em up, mount a broadhead and go at it, huh? I know the shaft will be close - Paul at Elite Arrows will get me there. So it sounds like bare shafting will be of marginal value. I can live with that. It's just that with the carbons I used to shoot it seemed that the shafts were ultra sensitive to tip weight changes and length changes. But once they were tuned, you have it nailed.
Thanks for the advice.
IDK...STOS seem like a pretty narrow head. Seems like they might be more tolerant of tuning errors than other heads, I know if I can get a set of woodies (or any other arrows) flying properly with Snuffers or Magnus I heads, I've got a well-tuned set...