After reading the thread posted by Ozy Clint I am curious how most measure there draw length.
I know I used the wrong kind of their up there. :knothead:
nock to grip.
nock to front of bow
Okay....here's one for you. I've heard guys actually call the back of the bow the front. Now....is the back of the bow the part that faces you when you're holding the bow and shooting, or is the back of the bow the side opposite of the shooter, the side facing the target? :confused:
i measure to the side facing the target....
Belly faces you. Back doesn't. Kind of remember it this way when you're holding the bow to shoot. You can't see either your back or the bow's.
Looking at the results three people could shoot a bow and say they had the same draw length but be pulling different weights.
Nock to pivot point +1.75 http://peteward.com/AMOStandards.pdft
I use the system called:
"Hey, come here honey and put a black mark right right where the arrow meets the riser. No not there.. There. Right THERE!!! Right THERE!!! THERE!!! WHERE THE @*%^&#'ing arrow meets THE *#@%#@&'ing RISER!!!!!! Okay, thanks. Now go fix me some dinner."
bear- thats exactly my point.
To measure my draw to determine draw weight, I use the same method used by the bowyer. My two main hunting longbows are Great Northern and Howard Hill, neither are measured using the AMO standard by the bowyer but are measured to the far side (back)of the shelf. This is also the only important measurement for me when determining arrow length as it does not matter where 1.75inches falls beyond the pivot point. It only matters where the back of the broadhead falls in relation to the back of the bow and my hand.
I did not vote because of the way you worded option three, otherwise I'd say to the back of the shelf.
This has moved me to put my bow on the scale and figure out just where this thing was measured at.
I measure nock to back of bow.
AMO DRAW LENGTH STANDARD
For Manufacturers
Draw length is a specified distance, or the distance at the archer's full draw, from
the nocking point on the string to the pivot point of the bow grip (or the theoretical
vertical projection of a tangency line to the pivot point parallel to the string)
plus 1 3/4". Draw length from pivot point shall be designed at DLPP and shall be
called TRUE DRAW LENGTH.
EXAMPLE: 26 1/4" DLPP plus 1 3/4" is the equivalent of 28" draw.
For Dealers and General Use
For practical reasons not requiring precise terms, draw length is the distance, at
the archer's full draw, from the nocking point on the string to the back of the bow
at the arrow rest.
EXPLANATION: The standard Manufacturers is consistent with the Bow
Weight Standard as related to the pivot point. The DLPP plus 1 3/4" is compatible
to previous concepts of draw length. (See handle illustration.) Draw length
for Dealers and General Use relieves the burden of preciseness not required for
general use and facilitates determining arrow length. THIS STANDARD SUPERSEDES
THE PREVIOUS STANDARD.
QuoteOriginally posted by Otto:
I use the system called:
"Hey, come here honey and put a black mark right right where the arrow meets the riser. No not there.. There. Right THERE!!! Right THERE!!! THERE!!! WHERE THE @*%^&#'ing arrow meets THE *#@%#@&'ing RISER!!!!!! Okay, thanks. Now go fix me some dinner."
I tried that system two days ago. Luckily she only blacked my non-dominant eye, so I can still shoot.
If your bow is marked 55# @ 28" AMO, it would be 55# when drawn to 28" when measured at the point 1 3/4" beyond the handle pivot point. If your bow is marked 55# @ 28" (not marked AMO such as a Hill bow), it is probably 55# when drawn to 28" when measured at the far side (back) of the shelf. Some straight handle longbows can have a shelf through the handle that is less than half the depth of a pistol grip recurve. This can place the point for the +1.75inch AMO measurement out in space beyond the entire longbow handle.
The "True Draw Length - DLPP" to the handle pivot point as noted above is a consistent measurement between bows. But, as I noted in my earlier post, the only thing important for determining arrow length for the archer is BOP as it relates to the back of the shelf and the bow hand.
Wait a minute. Now I'm confused. I measure my draw length from the bottom of the nock valley to the back of my bows (Hills) and it comes to 26.25". In fact, I had Craig tiller them to 26" for just this reason. Now, I just read in the AMO standards this statement, "EXAMPLE: 26 1/4" DLPP plus 1 3/4" is the equivalent of 28" draw." Since my draw length happens to be the exact distance noted in the AMO book, does that mean that I actually have a 28" AMO draw length? Did I have my bows made wrong? :scared: :(
QuoteOriginally posted by Otto:
I use the system called:
"Hey, come here honey and put a black mark right right where the arrow meets the riser. No not there.. There. Right THERE!!! Right THERE!!! THERE!!! WHERE THE @*%^&#'ing arrow meets THE *#@%#@&'ing RISER!!!!!! Okay, thanks. Now go fix me some dinner."
Otto,
I tried that method too, but found that cooking my own dinner got really old...and sharpie marker is hard to wash off the back of your hand. :knothead:
My confusion with my bow is that it is marked as follows: 60#at28"
60"AMO
Does that AMO only go for the length? Called the bowyer to ask but he will probably be a while getting back to me if he calls back at all.
QuoteOriginally posted by pointystick:
Wait a minute. Now I'm confused. I measure my draw length from the bottom of the nock valley to the back of my bows (Hills) and it comes to 26.25". In fact, I had Craig tiller them to 26" for just this reason. Now, I just read in the AMO standards this statement, "EXAMPLE: 26 1/4" DLPP plus 1 3/4" is the equivalent of 28" draw." Since my draw length happens to be the exact distance noted in the AMO book, does that mean that I actually have a 28" AMO draw length? Did I have my bows made wrong? :scared: :(
If you measure your draw length from nock groove to back of shelf, target side of bow (26.25"), that is the same measurement method used by Craig on your Hill (26"). If you are measuring this 26.25" from nock groove to the pivot point where you place your hand, that would be your true draw length "DLPP". The DLPP measurement, or the DLPP measurement plus 1.75" for AMO, have no bearing on Craig's measurement to the back (target side) of the bow shelf.
Nock to back of bow.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bear Heart:
My confusion with my bow is that it is marked as follows: 60#at28"
60"AMO
Does that AMO only go for the length? Called the bowyer to ask but he will probably be a while getting back to me if he calls back at all.
I have several bows that are marked AMO for length but are not AMO for draw. Instead of guessing, use a bow scale and measure the bow for your measured draw length. This will tell you exactly where you stand.
Many thanks for the explanation, Daddy Bear. :cool: I was actually confused about the DLPP measurement (without realizing it). My DLPP would be 24 point something inches. On my Wesley the shelf depth from back to PP is 1.875". On the Bobcat it's 1.625". The main thing is that Craig measures draw length from nock groove to back of bow, as do I. That's what I wasn't sure of until your post. It's good to know he and I are on the same page in that respect. Whew! I got a little worried there for a second. :scared: :D
The confusion comes from everyone doing it differently though. At this point if I were the president of the archery world I would through out all the confusion and settle on one draw length measurement for everyone to stick to.
From the poll results it sounds like most of you have "draw lengths" that change with every bow. I realize High, Med, and Low wrist grip actually do change your draw length but to the back of the bow seems very inconsistent.