Okay experts...is there a fool proof way to sharpen grizzly 190's to shave hair??? I have been trying for QUITE a while without any luck. Thanks.
justin
call Ron at kme sharpeners - he'll help you out. He's a sponsor here.
here you go
http://www.kmesharp.com/
I have some 300 gr Tuskers I had to break out the grinding wheel on...
Ron is a VERY good guy!!! These things are really testing my patience. It should not be this hard......
I can do it with my Lansky, but it takes 45+ minutes on each head with an extra corse diamond hone. I wish they would pay closer attention to their grind.
Dave
The easiest way to put a hunting edge on a Grizzly out of the pack would be to maintain the factory bevel. This would require the least amount of metal removal. If you can maintain and keep a flat file against a flat bevel, a good single cut bastard around 8-10inches would remove that few thousandths of steel fairly quick. When you reach the point that the bevel has reached the edge, you can use a smaller single cut bastard to develop and hone a very sharp edge. This takes more technique than muscle. Most get lost and are stuck in a revolving door chasing their tail. You can find quite a few tutorials archived that cover proper techniques.
If you wish to modify the Grizzly by reducing the bevel angle and changing its overall profile, this requires the most amount of metal removal. There are only a couple of choices of files available to do this effectively. Again, this requires technique to avoid much work.
Some by-pass hand files and use power equipment. Even if you go this route, you should learn to maintain the edge with a simple hand file as it is not practical to haul heavy power equipment out into the field when hunting.
Good Luck,
Daddy Bear
Check out the file on page 3 of this thread.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=065714;p=3#000044
It makes sharpening and getting the right angle on a Grizzly real easy. Does great with Snuffers too.
That curved tooth file from the link above is a must for simple sharpening of the Griz. This is how Ray Hammond showed me. Takes about 15 minutes once you get a feel for it.
I clamp the file down on the edge of a table and use my index and middle finger knuckle for a guide. Color the bevel with marker so you are sure to keep a constant angle. Pull from the back of the head lightening the strokes when the file starts pulling evenly along the whole edge. Once both bevels are taken down even, flip the head over and run it FLAT on the back side to raise the edge. Very Important!
Switch to a mill file and repeat the steps using progressively lighter strokes until you have a wire edge the full length of the blade. Again flip over and run FLAT on the back to raise the edge. Strop off the wire edge and you have a Grizzly that will cut your eyeballs if you look at it too long.
Lots of good suggestions above. These are the three most common mistakes I come across in Grizzly sharpening:
1) Changing the angle but failing to continue long enough to truly get to the cutting edge.
2) Failing to maintain a consistent angle.
3) Ignoring or not paying enough attention to the back side of the head.
Any one of those three will get you a dull Grizzly.
A couple great tutorials:
http://www.tradgang.com/pdf-files/grizzly.pdf
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000053;p=0
Hope this helps, Tim
I got one of those flat carbide cutters from Kustum King this year for Christmas that you pull through several times and it did an excellent job on my single bevels...They have them for just about any type of head and cost in the mid $20.00..You can carry it on your keychain,backpack or even put it in your fishin tackle cause it has a V groove to sharpen fish hooks...Three Rivers got them also...My wife got me one for my double bevels also...God Bless, Keefers <")))><
I took the easy way out and took advice from another tradganger. I ordered from Harbor Freight the 8" wet grinder and strop wheel combo and you can spend about 30 minutes or so per head initially if you choose to reset the angle and take off a bit more metal, and then the leather strop wheel finishes them off. For touch ups, just hit the leather wheel. I was wearing out files after only a couple of heads, and this thing is wonderfully easy and productive if you shoot a lot of broadheads at game. I highly recommend it, and also get the resurfacing stone for 8 bucks or so to keep the stone surface flat. A local archery shop said I should charge and sharpen heads on the side, but they just take a long time whatever method you use. Good luck.
I also use a little carbide sharpener similar to the one for sale on three rivers. I put it in a vice on a bench so I dont have to bother holding it, and can firmly put pressure on the Grizzly. I have to say they came out razor sharp, cut the hair right off my arm. It took only a couple of minutes. I couldn't do that after 3 days of practice on a stone and file.
Here's one for all of us to marvel at... Ed Ashby can sharpen an El Grande from start to finish in 9 minutes or less! :saywhat:
He starts with a curved tooth body file, goes through several grits of bench stones, finishing up with a black Arkansas "Surgeon's stone", and a leather strop... 9 minutes flat!
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Ron
ttt
Alaska bowhunting has a new sharpener in tbm this issue.
The 190 can be a particular challenge; ABowyer-the answer to your prayers. :pray: :pray: