I was under the impression that Bareshaft tuning meant to shoot arrows with no feathers and adjust things until the arrow flew straight.
Most of what I read though says that the bareshafts should impact the target in the same spot as fletched arrows(all should group together)
How does someone new to shooting or with a new bow find the correct arrow to put feathers on in the first place?
To me the best part of shooting a bow is seeing nothing but a tiny ball of feathers flying downrange, no porpusing, fishtailing or any other movement whatsoever. I am having trouble finding that as there always seams to be some, if subtle, other movement in my arrows.
I think getting the arrows set up so perfect is a very difficult task!!!!!!!!!!!!
If there is always some sort of movement and you've tried a bunch of different arrow setups problem could be your form. I am no expert so I won't get too in depth on you, but I worked on my form till it was "perfect" (to me anyway), repeatable and second nature. After achieving that, which took some time, I tackled the tuning issues. Just my $.02...Mike
If your form is good, list the exact flight patterns you are seeing and you'll get lots of help...Mike
Shoot bare shaft and make adjustments untill you get it flying stright then make 3 arrows to that spec and fletch them, now shoot the 3 fletch and 3 bare and make adjustments to both fletched and bear untill they come together
I think my for is good as I really focus on it when I shoot.
I get excessive wear on the left side of my arrow rest(velcro on shelf)
I am using 3 5 1/2 high bannana cut feathers, right wing.
Most of the time the arrow seams to wobble left and right. Not much, but enough for me to notice. This happens with a variety of shafts that will shoot great and then not great. AAhhh maybe it is just form. But it is irritating
QuoteOriginally posted by wtpops:
Shoot bare shaft and make adjustments untill you get it flying stright then make 3 arrows to that spec and fletch them, now shoot the 3 fletch and 3 bare and make adjustments to both fletched and bear untill they come together
That sounds like good advice!
I will try that!!
that does sound like sound advice
thanks wtpops
Normally a stiff arrow will fly tail right, weak tail left (for right hander). Sounds like you may be left handed by your description of your bow. If the strike plate is getting excessive wear that points to a stiff arrow. Problem with a stiff arrow is that it may fly nock left for you or may deflect off the shelf and actually fly nock right indicating weak.
If it is flying right sometimes, left sometimes, sometimes perfect...then there may be some issues with your form that need to be worked on first.
Maybe you are dropping your bow arm, collapsing on release, plucking the string...maybe you are so frustrated with tuning that you are doing all of these (ask me how I know :) ) What bow and arrow setup are you using?
Mike
I should mention that I'm with wtpops about how to tune. Just don't get too hung up with the flight of the bareshaft as it could be form. Get an arrow that is close (from experience or from the experience of others on here) and tune with the 3 fletched 3 bare shafts. There is a good explaination of this method on O.L. Adcock's website as well as A&H's website. Good luck and have fun...Mike
Here's Adcock's site: http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm . Go there and then click on "bow tuning". It's the best I've seen on the subject and I often use it as reference.
That's a lot of feather.They may work fine,I wouldn't know as I've never used them.Just for kicks,if you don't get it straightened out,try some 4" feathers or you may need a higher nock point for thoes.
OL's site should get you fixed up.
Plentycoupe, "I was under the impression that Bareshaft tuning meant to shoot arrows with no feathers and adjust things until the arrow flew straight."
There are 2 different methods. One is the method you describe and the other is the planning method. The method you describe is the "kick" method and is the same as paper tuning. Some claim it works for them. IMO, it's too dependant on form and other quirks that have nothing to do with tuning nor can all "kicks" be "fixed" by normal tuning methods. Then when/if a person does get the shafts flying straight, they'll find out later with broadheads they are over spined.
The planning method seperates tuning issues from form issues and does not require good form and works very well. Use which ever method you choose but don't mix them....O.L.
"I get excessive wear on the left side of my arrow rest(velcro on shelf)"
Assuming you are right handed and getting the feather wear mentioned above, I would suggest adding weight to your point. I had the same wear pattern and had to add 40 grains up front and now I have great flight.
Rob