I have used a clothes pin on the shaft of an arrow, and then drawing my bow. And then measuring from the valley of the nock to the clothes pin. Is this right?
yep
depends on what you're measuring for. if you're just trying to determine shaft length thats a good way to do it...if you're measuring a bow for AMO drawlength it's from throat of shaft nock to deepest part of grip + .75" (I think).....usually requires another body to mark the shaft at the grip or a drawing device like a tillering tree....
Add 1.75" to measured draw from throat to deepest part of grip for AMO.
The clothes pin will work as a reference of arrow to riser. Put arrow relaxed bow at clothes pin, mark your throut of grip and add the 1.75". This will remove the need of a second person to mark the drawn arrow. I might go and do this myself to see what I actually draw.
I just folded a piece of paper over a couple of times and stuck it in the arrow. When I came up with 29 1/2 in. from the bottom of the nock to the paper. Is this my draw length? The measurment from the deepest part of my riser to the front side is 1 1/2in. Would I subtract this to come up with my true draw length. I assume this is the measerment you need if your ordering arrows. thanks
sdpeb1 when ordering arrows, you need to keep in mind that the 29 1/2 to front of bow plus whatever you need to keep the broadhead from hitting your riser/shelf area. my draw is 26 to fromt of bow, so i shoot 27" arrows.
Don't use any stupid (yes..I means stupid) AMO designations. Measure to the back of the bow like you did. The AMO version was for compounds with overdraws or arrow rests the could be moved in all directions and the ability of such devices to shoot shorter arrows, etc.
With a stickbow, you only need to worry about whether the arrow clears the back of the bow...your knuckle, etc. Draw length was always measured to the back of the bow until the compound came along. Shall I say it is the traditional way of doing things?
thanks, so is my draw length 29 1/2 if someone ask, or is it 28?
kWhat is unclear about what George just said? It's 29 1/2.
sounds like 28" to me
George,
If I remember correctly, before there were any compounds, AMO stands for Archery Manufacturers Organization, and when you purchased a recurve such as a Bear, Pearson, Wing, Damon Howatt, Groves, etc. that was 45# the weight was determined by what the bows draw weight was when drawn and measured from the throat of the grip 28" to the string. That was standard for all production bows I thought, and was determined by the Archery Manufacturers Organization, AMO, so they would all have a standard way of determining bow weight since all risers were not designed the same and had different thicknesses through the grip area.
The measurement taken from the back of the riser to the string was referred to as "true draw".
Louis
O.K. Now I feel confused. I thought draw length was from the nock to the back of the bow at your full draw. I measure it with a clothes pin on the arrow. Is that correct?
Straitshot, the mfgs I dealt with had clear photos of the bow and arrow length/draw length was to the back of the bow at sight window. I'll find an illustration. I was in NFAA competitive archery from 1967 on and it was always to back of bow. AMO didn't bring standards to the mfgs until 1968, and then it was to back of bow. Pivot points wouldn't make sense due to depth, design, etc.
do you want arrow length or real draw length?
the pin is the way to go for arrow length, but for true draw length. You need to go from nock valley to deepest part of the handle where your hand is. Some Bowyers go by backside of bow for your draw, but the handle (palm of hand / belly side of handle) will be your true draw length.
The true draw length is from the deepest valley in the grip to the nock point. If using the cloths pin method you will need to measure the distance from your grip to the back of the bow, and subtract that from your arrow measurement.
AMO draw is simple true draw + 1-3/4" which at one time was a standard distance from the grip to the back of the bow. If yours is already this, then there is no need to mess around. If not then you'll need to add or subtract a little from this measurement.
AMO was changed in the 1970's to accomodate compound designs of risers, adj. arrow rests, etc. Since all bows are different, the easiest and best way is to the back of the bow. For those of you who weren't around back then, here is an illustration. No goofy pivot point plus stuff. You are not going to pull to an imaginary spot, you are going to pull to the back of the bow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v134/oldearcher46/drawlength.jpg)
George,
I stand corrected. I had it backward. True draw was from the pivot point and AMO was true draw plus 1 3/4" and it was in the late 60"s. I was just looking at the same diagram you just posted. However, The Archery Manufacturers Organization was started in the 50's. :notworthy:
Louis