I just ordered a Morrison Archery Cheyenne. Its gonna be a "B" riser with "D" foam core limbs 48#@28 my draw is 29" I asked him to make the riser exactly like one I saw on his site (see attached picture) It will be Black Phenolic with Rose Diamond Wood. I would like to get some pictures of other Morrison Archery risers that have phenolic used in them? Is there any advantages/disadvantages to using the phenolic? Also do you think this bow will have enough power at my draw weight to take down Big California Boars?
Thanks
Tenbrook
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k258/matter_daddy/bowindex8.jpg)
Tenbrook congrats on going with a Morrison, Your Journey has just began. I will get you a Pic of mine as soon as I can. A sharp BH on finly tuned arrows and that bow will take Hogs just fine!
blueline
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m208/boxxer06/PB200257.jpg) (http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m208/boxxer06/PB200252.jpg) (http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m208/boxxer06/PB200251.jpg)all phoelnic riser foam core carbon backed
Absolutely enough to shoot pigs, etc. Just use a fairly heavy arrow and hit them low and forward. Those foam core limbs are awesome-quiet and smooth. You will enjoy it.
Mark
QuoteOriginally posted by tenbrook:
Is there any advantages/disadvantages to using the phenolic?
I like phenolic for two reasons. One; it looks nice to me, dark, understated and classy. Two; it adds a little mass to the riser which to me helps with stability which = consistency which = accuracy. Combined with the dymondwood (pretty heavy too) you should have a very solidly built bow and with foam cores it is going to be lightning quick and whisper quiet. At least that was my impression of the Cheyenne with those limbs - for what it's worth. :D
ttt
:bigsmyl: I am waiting mine,about same # and I plan to use it on Wild boar too. Since here,I guess,the temperatures in the winter are more severe the hogs have more fat hair and shoulder blade protection, but a well placed BH of good design makes the job fast. On big boars I look more for a quartering away shot,than broadside,with a 2/4 blade BH. In the times I have seen a shorter tracking and highter success.Wild boar does't bleed really much because the fat(in winter)and the hair with mud sticks in them. On poor shoots 3bls in not the way to go. Personal experience big boars, winter time
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n217/reviveourhomes/Bows/Dscn4124.jpg)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n217/reviveourhomes/Bows/Dscn4123.jpg)
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n217/reviveourhomes/Bows/Dscn4126.jpg)
IMHO the most important part of making dymondwood pretty is to do something to take break up the grain. A few contrasting colors of phenolic lines running through the handle in the right places, or one of those pine cones or oak leaves carved into the handle like Dean's. Even the checkered grip does alot to distract the eye.
When they are a solid riser piece or not broken up enough I just think they look generic though. They all have the grain in the same places and it has a mickey mouse kind of feel to it. Too manufactured looking. Like the fake New York in Las Vegas. Don't take me the wrong way, to each their own. Plenty people think bubinga is as generic as it gets and I think it's very pretty wood.
tenbrook. I like you am partial to the rosewood. I think mixed with black you'll have a very pretty bow. I was looking at Morrisons site and he picked most of the best looking drymondwood samples. Dymondwood selections are famous for looking gaudy but he picked out all the best ones. He makes a very pretty bow.
I'll never guess why the makers of dymondwood make so many gaudy colors. Pinks, and greens and purples. I don't know what they do with that stuff besides bow risers, but the majority of it must be marketed to preteen girls. Only a handful of their selections out of the entire catalog are relatively natural wood colors.