Set-up: 55# @ 28" Bob Lee Recurve. 28.5" draw
Arrow: 65-70# POC Shaft 31" (Throat to end of taper)
Arrow nock pointing way down and to the right. The arrow flys sideways the whole way to the bail.
I ended up breaking the arrow after the 2nd shot. What is going on?!!
Your quite a bit underspined and the nock point sounds to be too high
Need a stiffer or shorter arrow, IMO.
Thanks!
Your going to break alot of wood shafts trying to bareshaft them. Best to fletch them up and flight tune them. Just my experience. Carbon or aluminum work alot better to bareshaft. dino
I broke the first 2 wood arrows I tried bare shafting 5 years and 15 bows ago. Haven't bothered since. Fletch them up and paper tune if you have too.
The above suggestions will work if you are right handed. If you are left handed the shaft is too stiff.
Thanks for the help guys..
I am right handed I should have added..
I have to ask: how do you pronounce "cpnhgnlngct"? Would you like to buy a vowel? ;) :wavey:
I always thought that the nock pointing right
(0<---<<<) for a right handed shooter meant the shaft was too stiff. Could someone clarify this for me? What is the impact point?
Thanks
Copenhagen Long Cut?
Ditto Scattershot.
He said the nock is pointing right, not the point. He's overspined.
nock right = stiff
nock left = weak
he is overspined!
CJC, Shooty1, and SCATTERSHOT have it correct.
Bare shafting with wood can be a real challenge. Best bet is to start with a lower spine shaft, fletch, and paper tune as stated above.
QuoteOriginally posted by knife river:
I have to ask: how do you pronounce "cpnhgnlngct"? Would you like to buy a vowel? ;) :wavey:
:biglaugh: This made me laugh.
I would highly doubt he is overspined and am more inclined to think he has his terms mixed up as many do when posting about their arrow tuning. A 31" 65-70 is going to spine at 40-45 pounds and that is with 125 grain point. The bow is cut a bit past center, uses FF string and so forth so will nock the spine down another 10#s. If he is using a point heavier than 125 you can nock some more pounds off.
According to Rose City Archey's spine chart you should be using 70-75 or 75-80 spine with a 55 pound recurve.
http://www.rosecityarchery.com/spine.htm
So, vermonster is right on the spine. Weak spine should make your arrow go point right/nock left though. Hmmm, either you have your directions mixed up or there is something amiss in your form. Torquing the string can cause the situation you describe (I'd rather not discuss how I know that).
I also agree with the others though, that bareshafting cedars is a waste of time and often a waste of shafts. Fletch them and shoot groups. Use the ones that group the best. I'd bet you'll need more spine or a shorter shaft. If you are drawing 28.5" you can trim them some and maybe get them to group where you want.
vermonster, then since he's drawing 28-1/2" he should be able to cut 2" off and see at least some slight improvement...right.
Sorry 30coupe, we must have posted at the same time. Dave
Yes he'd see some improvement if he shortened the arrows to 29". He should be drawing between 56/57# if his draw is 28.5". Knowing the point weight would help in arrow selection also.
That is for right handed shooters, left handed is opposite!
longcut, I don't want to be argumentative but if your knock is to the right when your hitting then that arrow is over spined. I will also bet the your hitting to the left of where you are looking. I bare shaft most of my wood shafts and with a 125 grn. point and a 30.5 shaft I get very good arrow flight out of 55-60's but my bow is not a Bob Lee. Glenn
"I ended up breaking the arrow after the 2nd shot. What is going on?!!"
I hate seeing folks go through this frustration. Tuning wood arrows is no different then any other arrow or from self bows to compounds. You could have absolutly perfect tuning and still bend/break arrows with a poor release. In other words you are "looking" at the wrong indications.
Wood arrows, either do the tuning with wide broadheads or bare shafts at a long distance. That way if they are flying too bad, you simply miss the target and don't break the shafts.
Paper tuning is all but worthless. Eyeballs are worthless. "Looking" good doesn't mean it is. Folks find that out the first time they try to shoot broadheads on arrows they had been shooting all year that "looked" good.
With that length you should be in the ballpark spine wise if not a bit over spined. 60-65's would be closer if cut to 29-30". Use the planning method either with bare shafts or broadheads and you'll get them dialed in.....O.L.
You never said what point weight you were using.
If you fletch up the arrows first and they are to weak, then would you be running a risk of the shaft breaking when you shoot it? I don't know i'm just asking.
they would have to be way under spined to break when shot.
I ignore what the nock end shows but instead focus on where the bare shafts group in relation to fletched ones
3undr, At very close range, you bet. I've bent aluninums at close range fletched! When in doubt a fellow is better off shooting bare shafts at 40 yards then at 10...O.L.
I use this since I forget
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/TargetRightHanded4.jpg)
cpnhgninget,
I use Ol's method for bare shafting, however to see if in I'm in the ball park I start at 5 yds from the target. Slight nock left/too weak or slight right/ too stiff. The nock pt may also require some adjustment. Once the appropriate adjust have been made and verified, then I will move back to 15 yds and then on to 20 yds. Even after satifying the 20 yd bare shaft tuning. I will recheck my 5 yds. It may not be necessary, however I want to know what my arrow is doing as soon as it leaves the bow. A five yd shot may be presented and I don't want to hit the target side ways, thus losing pentration.