has anyone used the bow bolt take down system? what are your likes or dislikes about it? is it noisy?
Great system. My Samuri had it and my Dryad Bushwacker has it. no not noisy at all very quiet. Easy to take apart and put back together.
Danny
Best two-piece system out there, in my opinion. Solid, silent & really simple to use. Doesn't affect the 'feel' of the bow either.
All of my experiences with it have been very good.
I HAVE 2 bows with it and in my opinion it is the best!!!!!!!!!!!!!
QuoteOriginally posted by robtattoo:
Best two-piece system out there, in my opinion. Solid, silent & really simple to use. Doesn't affect the 'feel' of the bow either.
exactly what big Rob said :thumbsup:
I had a small problem with mine, which was an earlier model. The solution was simple, and with my bow it has been very stable and is very easy to takedown. I have shot several thousand arrows through the bow without failure. Very convenient system.
Would it be worth the 200.00 price tag to have it added to a new bow thats being ordered?
I have a Holm-Made Osprey longbow and a Shrew Classic Hunter longbow, both with the Bow Bolt system. If not for the joint in the grip and a little bit of extra weight, you would not know the bolt was even there until it came time to travel with the bow. That's when you love the Bow Bolt. All you have to do is give the two sides a quarter twist and the interrupted threads disengage and allow you to pull the two pieces apart. Now you have a bow that is half as long to put into a travel case and take with you. The system is especially handy with longbows because they can be placed in a much smaller diameter container for travel than if the bow is a recurve. But the system would be nice on a recurve too. I don't like traveling with a one piece bow except in my vehicle, so the Bow Bolt is a great solution.
Allan
Tex-archer,
The answer to your question is: YES!!!!!
Allan
I've only owned one bow with the bolt and it split in half at the handle along the accent strip of "wenge" during full draw.It might have been a freak occurence because I've seen plenty of bows with the bolt and have only heard of it one other time from the same bowyer, but my confidence in the system was still bruised (along with my face and head )
If you travel via airlines, the $200 is quickly made up in savings from premium baggage charges. I have had customers report as high as $75 for each way to tranport a pvc tube with a one pc bow.
Heck one trip at that rate and your almost even.
We have installed quite a few bow-bolts and have had very good success. We learned to engineer the riser a bit to strength for the joint but all and all have had smooth sailing.
Mike
WindTalker, Craig Warren doesn't recommend drilling into and installing the bolt into an accent strip/glue line. Chad
Yeah, that wasn't a bolt failure but a riser failure. You need to design the bow with the installation instructions for the bolt in mind.
Is the bow bolt user friendly with all riser woods,or are there only specific woods you should use?
Craig
I had one come apart at full draw, on a horne longbow, up until it gave way I liked it
Hogdancer,
Did the bolt come apart or the Horne Longbow?
I have never heard of a bow bolt failure, I have heard of bow failures with bow bolts. As a result, some bowyers have chosen not to offer the system anymore. We chose a different route and engineered the strength of the bow to handle the additional stress created by the system.
Mike
Mike,
What did you do on the design to strengthen the riser? My two bows both have strengthened risers, but use different approaches. Chad Holm used Dymondwood and Gregg Coffey incorporated phenolic with the woods (so there are glue joints in the riser). Both have performed perfectly, but neither is very old either, and they have not been subjected to extreme temperatures, either high or low. I would be interested to know your approach.
Allan
We do the same as Gregg did only we use fiberglass. Adding a couple of black highlight strips in the right places makes a whole lot of difference in shear strength.
Mike
I'm using actionwood now. I've used a lot of different exotic hardwoods and never had a problem. I put it towards the back of the riser and put it lower in the riser then most to get it away from the "throat" of the grip as much as possible. Chad
Holm-made, Wish I knew about the recommendations when I bought the bow at the expo I attended, it would have saved me some minor injuries.Vermonster13 I never meant to suggest the bolt failed,just my experiance with it in that paticular bow. Now keep in mind I'm not a bowyer and I only had one bow with the bolt and didn't get to own it long enough to really check the system out(purchase to breakage was about 1 week and 50 arrows),but laterall pressure on that small of an area incased in wood and epoxy and a nice leather handle wrap doesn't seem that strong.Just my opinion Art
I edited my post above because I know a lot of bowyers with good reputations have used Dymondwood with good success.
The main thing to keep in mind is the bowyer is providing a warrenty with his bows. The last thing he wants to see is a bow come back, that's just money and time lost. If the bowyer trusts his system then the customer should too. :) Chad
Chad -- Sorry I said that you used Dymondwood instead of Actionwood on my Osprey longbow with the Bow Bolt!!!! As you know, I love the bow you built for me and recommend your bows as some of the best made, and as perhaps the best bargain available for a great shooting, high performance bow. I don't want to diminish the quality of any other bowyer's products by comparison, because I have not tried all the others (like the Dryads), but I know yours are top notch and extremely reasonably priced.
Mike -- Thanks for the information on how you strengthen your risers for the Bow Bolt. I hope someday to shoot one of your bows. I have heard nothing but great things about you and the bows you build and have no doubt the praise is well deserved.
Allan
I definately feel they are worth the extra couple hundred bucks and you will too if you ever decide to re-sale it at some point in the future.
I love my Griffin 2 piece. I was interested in having John install one in my other griffin. He flat told me he would not modify an existing 1 piece bow with a bow bolt. He explained that to be installed correctly it needed to be done at the time the riser was built as this system required phelonic in the riser to safely contain and support the stress in the area of the bolt.
I did on one occasion, see a riser blow up while being draw weight tested. This was a bow that had the Bow-bolt installed after the bow was built. Bolt did not give. The wood left in the riser was awfully thin on the sides and that is where it "Let Go". Keeping in mind that the origional Bowyer never built the riser for use as a T/D bow.
I would buy another in a heartbeat as long as it was done at the time of the Bow Build.
Gene
Gene,
That is a great point, we don't retrofit the bow bolt even on our own bows. We design the riser for the system when we build it.
It's a great system, but takes some thought on the bowyers part as to whether it will work in there bow and if it will how to make it work safely.
Mike