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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Billy on November 23, 2008, 09:54:00 AM

Title: Wood Shafts
Post by: Billy on November 23, 2008, 09:54:00 AM
I recently got a 64"- 52 @ 27 laminated longbow.
I draw 26.
The bow has a notch and an add-on for a shelf.
In parallel POC shafts,40-45, 75grn points and 3-3" are pretty good off this bow.
I prefer to shoot 2 fletch and wanted to get some thoughts from others on tapered shafts; spine and such..point weight, etc.
Why a 10" taper?
If a taper is a good thing, why not 14"; or even 20"??
I could go with carbon or aluminum, yes. But, I've decided to give some woodies a try for this all wood bow. Thanks in advance.
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: jacobsladder on November 23, 2008, 10:27:00 AM
curious of why only 2 fletch... seems like that would have a tough time stabilizing the arrow...

theres a bunch of variables on picking the correct spine.

arrow length, point weight , depth of riser cut, fastflight or dacron, etc...

tapered shafts do seem to be more forgiving and allow for more range in spine.
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: trapperDave on November 23, 2008, 11:11:00 AM
about half my arras are 2 fletch. If the arrow matches the bow, 2 fletch is plenty;even for broadheads. I use 2 5 inch shields with a helical
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: Shaun on November 23, 2008, 11:20:00 AM
The reason for a 10" taper is that this does not affect the spine. The spine is determined by the deflection of the arrow and the center of the arrow end to end is the weakest point.

I would think you will need to go to a heavier spine and heavier tip weight to get into hunting weight arrows. Most laminated bows take 10-15 lb greater spine than draw weight.
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: Billy on November 23, 2008, 12:09:00 PM
I should have said these are 5/16 parallel that I have now.
So, IF i go to tapered, 55-60 or ?? with 125's is closer to a starting point?  
I'm drawing about 48-49 from this bow.
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: Bjorn on November 23, 2008, 02:16:00 PM
Billy, increasing the diameter does not call for more spine-in fact if anything, less-technically, the center is farther from the bow.
Like Shaun said taper has minimal effect. 125 grain points will increase your spine by 5# so 55-60 is a good choice, and you can always leave the shafts an inch longer.
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: Billy on November 23, 2008, 07:54:00 PM
Okay, after some phone time with a couple of friends; 'Brushpopper' will get the prefinished 45-50's from 3 Rivers.
I got the 160 field tips and blunts.
They will be dressed with 2, RW, 5" shields and a yellow cap.
I do not have to have these to hunt this season so, I'll have time to play with them and see where we get...Thanks guys
The 40-45's I will keep for 'Snakey'
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: Billy on November 29, 2008, 10:23:00 PM
ok, here we go...
I got all the ingredients in 2 days from 3 Rivers; Thanks for the speed!
Decided to skip the cap cause I have no place to dry them this time of year..  :rolleyes:  
I fletched them and went straight to a 29" length. With the 23/64 points, it comes to
28 3/4"  throat to bop.
At 5 yds I am dead on. At 15 yds I am about 5" left of aim. Bare shaft is going to the same area.
I need a new serving on this string and a spare string..so, the verdict is on hold..
Thought I'd ask, will torquing the bow cause the left side hit or will new serving and nock point straighten me out. Or, is there too little info..
I shoot 3 under and 'burnt' shot it split with the same results.
Maybe I should try a 'skinny string' like on another thread, to see what happens??
The other 8 are still full length, all 12 are ready to fiddle...ideas and thoughts are welcome!
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: Dave Bulla on November 30, 2008, 02:05:00 AM
Sounds like maybe your bow has very minimal cut in for the shelf?  If so, the decreased amount of center shot will require a lighter spine.  Also, when shooting a longbow, often the amount of cant will change the point of impact.  I think it is more of an issue of how well you see down the arrow and aligning the point under your eye than anything else but more cant moves point of impact to the right and less to the left.  If you are shooting with your bow close to vertical, try more cant.  If no help, try a heavier point.
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: toddster on November 30, 2008, 08:15:00 AM
I experimented with the two fletch, it will work if the bow is fine tuned and arrows matched up.  but I prefer three just to stabilize that arrow especially in hunting shot's.
Title: Re: Wood Shafts
Post by: Billy on December 02, 2008, 11:58:00 PM
Went ahead and ordered some 200 grain points.
I'm playing with these shafts and would like to get them closer to my draw length, even if just for the fun of building and shooting.
I've got around 9 1/2 months before these (or something like them) will head out into early archery woods  :saywhat:  
Sometime between now and then we'll come up with the right stuff...I hope  :D  
I like the idea of 2 fletch mostly because it's different. I'm not against more, just think they're cool.