I shoot a Horn's long bow, 51@30. I draw about 31 inches. I make wood arrows from scratch. After much paper/bare shaft tuning the arrow that shoots the best is 31 1/2 inches arrow @ 80lbs (.320) approx. Here is the question. About half the time I get a slapping sound of wood on wood. The bow grip has a hole worn into it were the arrow rest rolls from horizontal to vertical. I also sometime get a slap on my top knuckle of my bow hand. Any help to resolve this issue.
means the arrows are too stiff, doesnt it?
I could be wrong though..see what others says
I agree. Too stiff. try a 60-65# spine and see if it doesn't clear up for you.
"After much paper/bare shaft tuning the arrow that shoots the best is 31 1/2 inches arrow @ 80lbs"
Yep, with those methods you'll wind up over spined every time....O.L.
Classic end result huh O.L.? Selecting a bare shaft thats flies without waggle, is certain to produce a stiff arrow when fletched.
hey O.L. & shooto8s, why? i use bareshaft/papertuning and my arrows fly great. what method do you use?
OL,
I have always paper tuned using fletched shafts. The bare shaft I am refering to is 3 bare shafts and 3 fletched shafts as described in an article by someone we know. The bare/fletched shaft and paper test indicated a weak reaction. By the way, I can put my bare shaft, field points, and broadheads out of my compound in a 4 inch circle at 40 yds. Since I am a little bored with that and I am getting old, I wanted to go back to the archery of my youth. There is alot I do not know about Longbows since I shot recurves in my youth and back then if the arrow stuck in the target we were happy. Is there any other reasons except a stiff shaft. Maybe I need to start over with the bare shaft/fletched shaft test or just start sanding until it stops slapping.
Ozy... when you add feathers to a bare shaft that flies "like a dart" or with the nock sticking straight into the target,the addition of fletching stiffens dynamic spine, ending up with too stiff an arrow.
I bareshaft tune, but have learned that a perfect flying bareshaft is too stiff, and when fletched,to the eye, flies great, but will never be as forviving as a bareshaft thats slightly weak.
"The bare/fletched shaft and paper test indicated a weak reaction."
The two are completely incompatable..You can't get one to pass one test without failing the other. Talking folks trying for bullet holes as normally done. If you are looking for the paper to be weak, how much? How do you measure it? 3', 6', 10', 20', will all show different length tears from the same shot and will do so because of release or bow hand torque. Release and bow hand torque could make shots shoot "bullet holes" as well, once in awhile! :)
"I can put my bare shaft, field points, and broadheads out of my compound in a 4 inch circle at 40 yds. Since I am a little bored with that and I am getting old, I wanted to go back to the archery of my youth."
Yes sir, thats the results we want no matter how we got there. Bet you aren't doing that with the longbow slapping the riser? That's a classic "stiff" condition, arrow nocks too tight on the string, nock point a little low or all three....O.L.
Thank you for the info. I will start sanding and stick to the bare shaft planning test only. Good advice. As an engineer I should follow the old rule. kisS By the way. Traditional has put the fun back into archery for me. I have even started wearing wool plaid for hunting like we did in the sixties.
with bareshafts i always get nock high no matter where the nock point is. just the amount of nock high changes with nock point adjustment, for me. i get them shooting as best i can then fletch them up and paper tune. works for me. if i could shoot reliable groups i would have a go at the planing method.
Ozy...just a thought....are you sure your getting a nock high reaction, or is it possible that your getting shaft bounce from the shelf?
yeah, i thought of that too but i been everywhere from below square to 1" above square. same nock high just not as bad at a "sweet spot" in between. that is only with bare shafts. when fletched and shot though paper all is good. my two limbsets that i have for my bob lee 'curve, 54# & 69# like 5/8" & 7/16" above the shelf respectively. both these produce really tight paper tears at all ranges, as good as my form/release are cabable of at present. but that is a good suggestion. never known why my bareshafts shoot nock high. form or release, don't know?? thanks