I just finished a doz ash arrows for my banboo backed self bow. In cedar I shoot 40-45 29" with a 125gr tip. Fly great. When I ordered the ash Ted at Raptor said I should go 45-50 in the ash because they are so heavy. So I did. Well they are to light spine. I even cut 1" off still won't shoot. The bow if reflex deflex and shoots hard for a 50lb selfbow. I want some ash because I need the weight 40-45 cedars just are not heavy enough for me. Also let me say this is in no way Ted's fault. What should I try? 50-55's and go to 160gr tip if I need to. Help me if you can.
Tom
Tom...I'm shooting 50-55 Ash with a 190 up front out of my 58" 56# @28 longbow and they're slightly stiff. I'm by no means the guy to fix your problem but just thought if I offered those numbers you could compare and adjust.
Good luck!
you could taper the back first to see how that works. Lighter and/or smaller feathers might help.
I have a 45 lb osage selfbow and I shoot 50-55 ash shafts with 160 grain field point/175 grain broadheads with no problem. I think 50-55's are gonna be your answer.
Tom:
I know your bow is a self bow, but I would check to see how far from center the strike plate is. I know Too Short makes a lot of his bows center shot that will require more spine. Bow weight and arrow length alone are not the only factors in calculating spine. When people tell me their bow shoots hard it usually means its center cut or past center.
Bob
QuoteOriginally posted by aromakr:
Tom:
I know your bow is a self bow, but I would check to see how far from center the strike plate is. I know Too Short makes a lot of his bows center shot that will require more spine. Bow weight and arrow length alone are not the only factors in calculating spine. When people tell me their bow shoots hard it usually means its center cut or past center.
Bob
No my bow is not center shot. The arrow rest is glued on the riser. It is at least 1/8 to 1/4 from center shot. These ash I have just will not shoot out of my bow. I have worked hard at trying to get them to shoot but no way. Changed tips, cut 1" off, tuned bow over and over with different arrows from that doz. I would get a arrow to shoot good 2 or 3 times and the next shot it will get allmost to the target and kick down 8" :mad: I bet I have put 15 to 20 hours into it and that don't count building time :help: . I don't know what I will do to get my arrow weight up but I am over ash shafts for right now. To bad they are the right weight.
you could put a shim on the riser to move the strike plate out....that's sometimes easier than shortening an arrow. I think that's what Bob is trying to say....it's not all head weight and arrow length.
I have to admit it took me a long time to believe / implement this. I simply didn't want to accept that my bow wasn't "perfect" the way it was. Once I decided that perfect may be including a shim behind the strike plate, the arrows flew a lot better.
homebru
Tom:
When you say your arrow kicks down 8". Are you saying the arrow drops 8" below your target or does it actually kick down, with the fletching kicking up? If its a spine problem (too weak)the arrow will hit too the right of your point of aim and or will fishtail in flight (right hand shooter), just dropping low is just a heavy arrow.
Bob