hello all.
Been lurking a lot lately in the classifieds and
I've taken the plunge and bought a Quinn Stallion 60" 52lb @ 28.
I'd like some advice regarding arrows
I would be probably drawing about 28 1/2 or 29, using 125 grain broadheads.
I'd like to shoot gold tip carbons, as I had great experience with these on my compound, and can get them reasonably cheap locally.
would 5575 be the way to go? I would cut them down to size, but could I stuff them to make them heavier? I don't want to over/under spine them, and I never really figured out how to tune arrows, and I don't have a great deal of cash to play with.
I want to have fast, accurate, heavy hitting arrows for our hard as nails Aussie game.
any and all advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Glenn
thats what I would use. I would load the tip to make the shaft weak so they will fly from that bow. start full length and see if it's too stiff or too weak. you can get 50 or 100 grain brass inserts, 100 or so broadhead adapters plus your point. just play with it til you get a good bareshaft then fletch em up.
ok so I received my bow today, and I'm waiting on some 5575 gold tips.
I'm going to shoot off the shelf, can I fletch my carbons with the 2" blazers I have here? I had good success with them on my compound, and already have all the gear to get them on the shaft already.
If they are suitable would I just go with the standard three vane setup? I don't have a helical jig.
cheers
You should really use feathers unless ya shoot off an elevated rest and than the vanes may be OK. If you are gonna shoot those 55/75s you beter leave them long and have at least 300 grains up front, they are awful stiff for that bow. I would of went with the 35/55 cut to 30"s and shot 175 grain points or a tad more. Shawn
If you do end up pulling it to 29" you will be very close to my set up and it works very well for me. Mine is 57# @ 29, GT 55/75 with 325 grains up front. Load the front of them up and I'll bet they fly like darts. If you find you really aren't drawing the bow that far (it's not unusual to draw less than you thought you might) those arrows may end up being a bit stiff.
thanks guys.
I can't find the darn bareshafting guide.
Its late here so I'll have a good look around tomorrow.
cheers again
ok, so now I have my shafts, and the easton bareshafting guide.
When cutting carbons, can I cut from either end?
I've seen trad blokes mention elsewhere cutting the nock end so you don't have to keep gluing the insert in, but when I was looking at it for compounds everyone said NEVER cut the nock end.
I plan on using a dremel with small cut off saw, then sandpaper to smooth it.
anything I should know before I start this?
thanks