I probably should have asked this question before I went and made a few of them, but does anyone have any experience with .357 Magnum/.38 Special casings as blunts?
I made up 4 of them with .357 Magnum cases, about 1/2 full of (I think) #7 lead shot for weight, then glued onto my POC shafts. They are actually heavier than my broadheads (125 grain Woodsmans) and field points, but by how much I don't have a clue.
I'm not so worried about where they will shoot, I can adjust my aim accordingly. They are fletched differently than the broadheads as a reminder.
The big question unanswered is: Anyone else tried them, and how did they work for you on rabbits and squirrels and such?
Never used them, thought about it in the past because the would be cheap using spent casings.
bhfp
I've taken a bunch of grouse and rabbits with them over the years.
Mike
They Work Fine (http://home.earthlink.net/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://home.earthlink.net/~jsteflik1306/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/meandmybunny.jpg&target=tlx_new)
Mine are the same weight as my other heads. That particular shot was from around 15 yards... went in near the base of the tail and exited between the front legs, pinning the tasty little thing to the ground.
You can always slot the casing and add a little blade, making it look like the Magnus blunt.
QuoteOriginally posted by bowhunterfrompast:
Never used them, thought about it in the past because the would be cheap using spent casings.
bhfp
This is precisely why I tried them. I was given the casings and a small amount of shot for free.
I'm notoriously cheap :)
They are all I have used for the last eight or so years. I have LOTS-O-BRASS as the .357 is my primary CCW.
I do not add any weight. They will fit over an ll/32 field tip with a little help. Us e a small nail to pop the primer out to facilitate the centering of the case on the point. Lots of 'BONK" power. If you feel the need to glue them onto a wood shaft without a field point, use a bit of silicone. Makes a somewhat flexible joint that will stand up to some pretty good impacts with rocks and such. Again, knock the primer out so that the silicone can oooz out the primer hole while you seat the casing onto the shaft.
Have not had to go the route of bleader blades but would be very simple to do using old steel banding that you could probaly pick up at any freight yard.
A good friend will have an article coming out in one of the spring TBM's featuring their use (or my cheapness as the "case" may be)
Edited to add...One of the cheapest arrows you can make up for flinging at treetop grouse is a 3/8 Ramin dowel, tapered on the front to accept the brass, self knocked with a carbide tile saw blade, and fletched with the remnants of full lenghth feathers. Again, case glued on with silicone. About 75cents worth of FUN! :archer:
Emjoy them.
Scotty
Pretty much all I use any more for squirrels is 357 casings(with bleeder blades) and Ace Hex heads. If I could find some cheap durable broadheads I would use them. Squirrels is tough.
QuoteOriginally posted by CheapShot:
Pretty much all I use any more for squirrels is 357 casings(with bleeder blades) and Ace Hex heads. If I could find some cheap durable broadheads I would use them. Squirrels is tough.
This is the first year I'm going traditional (at least as far as bowhunting is concerned, I switched from a bolt action .30'06 to a .54" caliber flintlock longrifle years ago).
Hopefully these will do the trick for squirrels and rabbits. I've always wanted to do something about that squirrel scolding me, or the rabbit I spot while still hunting, I just never wanted to waste an expensive aluminum arrow and broadhead on them.
Let your Buddy shoot ya in the keester with one and YOU tell me how "effective" they are..... :scared:
All of my small game heads are .357 casings covered with an HTM rubber blunt...I call them wrecking-balls for a very good reason!
QuoteOriginally posted by woodchucker:
Let your Buddy shoot ya in the keester with one and YOU tell me how "effective" they are..... :scared:
Heh. I think my wife would be willing to volunteer to do that to me.
I was surprised at how much force they actually have when they hit, I expected them to bounce and skip along the ground, but they buried themselves just as deeply as my (lighter) field points.
Here is a couple of pics:
(http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/4746/dsc01614fv6.jpg)
(http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9642/dsc01615wz1.jpg)
Nothing too fancy, but I'm new at this whole arrow building stuff.
They work great for stump shooting. That way you don't have to worry about losing a field tip in the wood.
Ive used them and they work fine with a couple of steel washers in them for weight..PR
QuoteOriginally posted by Paul WA:
Ive used them and they work fine with a couple of steel washers in them for weight..PR
That's a great idea. I ended up using lead shot because that's what I had laying around, but I suspect steel washers would be less prone to 'rattle', not that it's a major problem with the shot.
It's all I use for small game. I also carry a .357 so lot's of it laying around and my wife thinks I'm saving money. hehehe