I am fairly new to trad. equipment...about 2 months into it. My problem is consistently shooting 6 to 8 inches LEFT of where I think I am aiming. :knothead: My elevation is usually good. I am a right hand shooter with a left eye dominant. I tried closing my left eye, but it blurs my target too much. I am attempting not to drop my bow arm or "peek" at the target. My set-up:
Morrison Cheyenne 58"
26.5 inch draw
52#
2018's with either 150 gr. Stingers or 210 gr. Silver Flames
Split finger, glove shooter
Thanks for the advice. ;)
What length are your arrows , if they are close to your draw then they are going to be stiff. Is the 52# @ 28 or your draw? I would say going down to a 2016 would be a closer match. Drew
Not that I'm a certified expert at this stuff but I've made most of the shooting mistakes that can be made over the course of the last 8 years or so of traditional archery. Before I would look at anything with my equipment I would focus on your right shoulder blade and back tension. I heard this talked about for a long time before I realized what it really means. If you don't get your string hand elbow and shoulder blade all the way back to a neutral alignment like Terry Green and others have demonstrated then your arrows are often going to be left.
Even with bad spine and a lot of other problems this is the first thing I go back to if I'm shooting left.
Hope this helps.
Chris
That's a real stiff arrow for that set-up. Drew is right, a 2016 or even a 1916 would be a better match IMO unless you are keeping them real long.
Red Boar,
Your post could easily be a description of myself- Right hand shooter, left eye dominant, split finger, glove, and a lifelong problem with consistent follow through. I have learned that above all else, I must concentrate on not dropping my bow arm until the arrow hits the target. If I fail to focus on keeping my bow arm up, my arrow will remind me because it will be about 4-6 inches left of where I was aiming.
I finally broke the bad habit by shooting just one single arrow every few minutes with total focus on form. Eventually correct form replaced the "programmed" bad form in my subconscious. The tendency is still there though and every once in a while I have to go through the mental exercise again. Usually when it happens I'll just stop shooting for the day or at least for a couple of hours.
Bad form can become instinctive just as proper form can be and like any bad habit, the longer it goes on, the harder it is to stop.
Hope this helps,
Ron
i had the same problem when i tried shooting right handed with eye dominance. if you practice long enough and develop good instinctive shooting form it will correct itself. If you try to use the split vision technique you will have serious problems. You have to focus only on the target and under no circumstances acknowledge the arrow.
I got good at it but in the end I just went to shooting left handed and everything felt much better. Good luck
Your arrows are too stiff.. Fletched shaft hitting left (right handed archer)equals shaft too stiff...
Thanks for all the advice. In answer to the question, 52# at my 26.5 draw length...arrows cut to 28 inches. It is FRUSTRATING that both the charts and "supposed" experts you order from make recommendations that are incorrect with regard to spine. Getting the wrong equipment becomes expensive quickly. I'll have to order some 2016's, along with working on my form and focusing on shooting less arrow with total concentration. I am putting a lot of pressure on myself because I want to put down the "wheelie" and hunt with my trad gear. Presently, my practice results are not filling me with the confidence I need.
2018s spine out at 67-70#s depending on the model.
I am also right handed and left eye dominant and shoot with both eyes open. The arrows are probably too stiff and dropping the bow arm. Good back tension and push toward the target with bow hand and follow through, ie do not move the bow arm until shot is over ie arrow in target as said above. Also try canting the bow a tad more. I have found that if I hold the bow too verticle it will cause my shot to go left. Concentrate on the form and spot and have fun.
Danny
I had the same problem as well. If I cant the bow to much I was left. I started out w/ Heritage 150's that shot good to 15yds and looked to be flying very well. Past that I was very inconsistant. I blamed me being a new shooter.
I switched to axis 500s and shoot much better now. Even at much further distances. I guess what Im saying is dont get stuck on one arrow.
BTW: here's the Easton chart recommending a 2018 all the way down to a 46# recurve and 27 inches. :confused: Certainly I thought at 28 inches with 52# and 210gr. broadhead it would be correct...seems my arrow builder did as well.
(http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa102/Redriderxx/spinechart.jpg)
my bow is around 50# and i shoot 2018s but i shoot them full length with 100gr heads....they shoot great but like i said they are full length(31.5")...maybe try some longer
Simple test: try canting the bow more. That will move the impact point to the right.
Try using a thinner side plate on your riser if it is possible. I discovered that by removing the thicker material and putting a thin leather patch my groups moved to the right and were right where I wanted them. It may be that simple, especially if you are shooting good groups but only to the left. Hope this helps.
BOB
When I consistently shoot left, it is almost always because of poor back tension. Working on back power almost always straightens things out. TM
You mentioned using two point weights, 150 and 210 grains. That is a lot of difference (60 grns) and it will affect the arrow flight if you do not also change the arrow length. What weight field points are you using for practice? They should weight the same as your intended broadhead choice. Heavier heads will make the arrow hit farther right.
Ideally you will end up with an arrow / point combination that flies straight and hits where it is pointed.
QuoteOriginally posted by Shaun:
You mentioned using two point weights, 150 and 210 grains. That is a lot of difference (60 grns) and it will affect the arrow flight if you do not also change the arrow length. What weight field points are you using for practice? They should weight the same as your intended broadhead choice. Heavier heads will make the arrow hit farther right.
Ideally you will end up with an arrow / point combination that flies straight and hits where it is pointed.
I have field points in both 150 and 200 grain. The back tension issue is probably the root problem. I also try some lighter spined arrows. Thanks to everyone for the advice! :cool: