First of all I would like to say I really enjoy this website. I think this is one of the best websites for traditional bowhunting info. That being said this is my question.
I have always hunted deer from a treestand. About 3/4 of the time I use an oldman climbing stand. It is just about impossible to shoot a tradtional bow from this stand because of the seating platform. The lower limb hitting the platform. I would like some bow recommendations that would solve my problem. I know about and agree a longer limb bow is more forgiving\\stable. But if i cant shoot it its usless. I was looking at Bob lees 54" recurve, but I am curious if its such a good bow design why are they going to stop making them?
Well you see my delima and theres probaly some more folks who have the same problem. I need bow thats quiet and accurate at hunting ranges and short. I have taken 5 deer with longbows\\recurve but out of lockons. I did take one deer out of my oldman but at close to dark I lowered my seat way down so my limb to clear. Anyone with any info would be appreciated. Thanks
54" RER Arroyo, shooys like a 60+" bow and is very quiet and as quick as they come. Check them out at www.rerbows.com (http://www.rerbows.com) Very forgiving due to the static limb design. Shawn
Just use lockons,i have a lone wolf and if a deer doesnt get to the right spot your s### out of luck.
On my place when the acorns are falling I like the versatility of a climbing stand. I own 2 and Ill leave it on the tree in a hot place. Its so easy to move. Lockons are great on food plots and funnels. But for me I like to hunt out of my oldman.
Take a look at the 56" Mojo from Whisperstik. JD Lund builds a heck of a bow, fast, quiet and accurate. I took mine up in my climber last week and had a hard time finding a shot it couldn't make.
http://www.whisperstikbows.com/
Shrew...
Methinks it's not a bow problem, but a tree stand problem.
It'd be cheaper to replace the stand. If you love that stand so much but it costs you shots at game... well, hmmmmm!
No its not a treestand problem. Oldman treestand is great tool for my area. deep southwest al. hardwood swamp. Deer travel patterns are hard to pinpoint. May be hitting one white oak tree and 2 days later maybe another one. The stand lets me easily move my setup. Do have any deep south bowhunters out there that can relate to my area.
I had this problem on one shot on opening day this year. Quick fix, canter your bow more & lean in to your shot ( bend at the waist ). Worked for Me & I hope it works for You.
I'm shooting a 70" N2N self bow I made.
QuoteOriginally posted by longbow59:
On my place when the acorns are falling I like the versatility of a climbing stand. I own 2 and Ill leave it on the tree in a hot place. Its so easy to move. Lockons are great on food plots and funnels. But for me I like to hunt out of my oldman.
I do the exact same thing with 2 ol'man climbers. This will be my first year with my recurve hunting out of my climbers but I did practice shooting out of them this summer. I need to have the stand facing the area the deer will travel and be in a standing position ready to shoot. In 2 weeks I should have a better review of my escapades :D
What length is your recurve? I have 2 longbows a 62" wildfork and 66" Byran Fergussen redhawk he made for me when I 1st got interested in trad. hunting. Theres no way the 66" works for me out of oldman.
I shoot 64 inch r/d longbows out of my ol man climbing stand have never had a problem with the limb hitting the bar.
Like was said above cant your bow and bend at the waist also lower your top portion of the tree stand. I keep mine maybe 28- 30 inches above the foot portion of the stand. also with a good seat-of-the-pants harness you can lean w-a-y over the front of your stand
lone wolf loc-on & climbing sticks work for me...i can set it up as quick as a climber...if i use a climber, i prefer a sit and climb but then you have the problem you are talking about with the bar across the front. i cant my bow when i shoot out of one of those & have no problems up to a 62 inch...it just seems to limit my shots though & that's why i prefer the loc-ons. In my area, i have the same problem you are talking about when we have a good mast crop and need to move quickly.
why not just set it with the top and bottom sections closer together when in the tree?
Then when ya stand up, the seat section is barely above knee height. Adjust the seat so its not too low in relation.
I have actually killed a couple of deer out of my oldman shooting the 62" longbow. What I would do when it got close to dark I dropped my seat to the bottom and stood till end of light. But it would seem a short recurve would be a better tool? Plus I dont own a recurve a good excuse to buy one. LOL
I use a treesaddle for most of my hunting now. It offers me great mobility and no bars to fight (I've got a Gorilla climber that's very similar to your oldman climber).
That said, I make sure that I'm positioned so that my strong (bow) side is near where I believe the deer will show up - yesterday I had two show up on my non-strong side (release hand side), so I had to move the whole bow over my pivot point. Not terribly difficult to do, but definately awkward. My bow is 62AMO, but I'll be swinging by Merrill here shortly to try out a new 54" RER.
I have to laugh now when my buddies complain about they're 34" wheelies getting in the way of the bar...
Does anyone know why bob lee would discontinue the 54 recurve. This seems like it would make a good treestand bow. And I have read some good comments on tghe bow. So why discontinue?
I have the Summit Viper SS climber and I can shoot out of it with my 64" Bear Montana, I just have to bend at the waist and lean way forward. My dad has the Summit Razor SS Climber with a bar up front that you can sit on to climb and when you get up high it fold under you and out of the way. I would be a cheaper option than a new bow and Summit makes great climbers.
I need to practice some more out of my climber...
Bakes
Try a 56 in. Fedora 560 T/D very compact and easy to shoot out of a stand for a cheaper alternative get a 54 in. Damon Howatt Hi-Speed I had one for 2 yrs. and very easy to shoot out of a stand, very quick and quiet aso.
Now your talking, do you really give up much with a short bow at normal hunting ranges vs longer limbs? I pull 27" by the way.
TTT
I have never used a climbing stand with the bar that gets in the way. But could you modify it, cut the bar out and if you want or need it back in make some kind of quick connect to hook it back up?? Just a thought. Jim.
I have hunted out of a ole man for a couple of years. Mine has the turned down bar,but still gets in the way on a close shot to the left. I will let the top section down as low as it will go or spin it around behind the tree and stand till dark. I am thinking seriously about a Lone Wolf hand climber for bow hunting. Probably not as easy to climb with as the ole man but better to shoot out of.
I have a 56 in. Northwind Curve on order, with a strip of carbon in the limbs, & a grip like my grizzly, also 56in. for this style of hunting. Mike
I had the same problem and got a lone wolf climber. Problem solved. The open front allows me to shoot in any direction. It is cheaper than a new bow plus all of the setup. I found that I needed a climber as well to keep up with the deer when they change patterns. Good Luck!
Check out the Stalker Series by Loggy Bayou treestands. It might be the answer your looking for.
last year i hunted from a summit viper with the rale in front with a 64" lommahawk long bow. i love the bow and the stand but was not comfortable with the 2 togather. over the summer i got a 58" widow psr and a summit bushmaster open from stand(hand climber) this setup was a lot better for me. i can shoot in all directions in fron and can get some shots behind the stand.
Words of advice from me. they are free so take them for what they are worth.
1) A strap on or loc on style treestand can go anywhere a climber can go, plus some that a climber can't touch. Newer models, with a few particular ones in mind are so stable you can stand on the sides and not make it move. They have less "stuff" to work around, are comfortable and you can use any bow you want.
2) Don't scrimp. My current favorite treestand costs ~ $ 250. A bunch. Twenty years ago I would have NEVER paid that much. However if you add up the cost of all the treestands I bought and have hanging in the shed, looking for "the one" I would have been much better off just paying the 250 and being done with it.
Good luck, hunt safely.
ChuckC
On an ole man you can't cut the barbecauseit is the actual seat frame. I hunt with a 62' hummingbird invisible wings and I just keep the seat platform low enough that the limb doesn't hit but still high enough to sit down and get back up.
My treestand aresnal if you will: I have 3 lockons and 2 oldman. I use my lockons on my small food plots and move around with my oldman. All this on my 88 acres hardwoods.
I like the oldman stable quiet east to move. I climb high too for concealment and scent.I would rather get a shorter bow than give up what I like. Thanks for all the advise.
Here is something for you Summit users.
http://hazmore.net/cart/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=2&ccSIDa6e70b027d696f1d3afe13fa71f85b8e=f848579ff0cb773750cca51e0a46ce52
I put one on my Summit Viper and put a thermoseat in between the net to keep the wind off the hiney. Sits comfy and allowed me to raise the seat to in the top part so I could lower the bar. (Summit users know what I am talking about.