I want to install 50gr. brass inserts into some new GoldTip carbon arrows. Can I use hot-melt glue, in case I wish to take them out again? Not sure if that type of glue works well for carbons? If hot melt won't stick well enough, is there another option? Thanks!
First clean the arrows with acetone. I use JB weld but epoxy will work too.
The best thing i have found for inserts and carbon arrows is HIT glue made by Easton for their hidden inserts. I have tried everything and nothing comes close. I have arrows that I have shot hundreds of times into all kinds of targets and have never lost one yet.
I dont know if there is a way to use hot melt, if there is i havent found or heard of it. A realy good epoxy is the only way to make them stick that i have found.
You might be able to use it for tuning if shot into a bag target
I use the hot melt to test the setup and if I find I like the results will then take out the insert by heating the point ( Only ) on low heat. You do not want to over heat the carbon fibers as they will break down.
I then clear the inside of the shaft with alochol with a q-tip. I then use 24 hour slow cure epoxy to the insert and install the insert in the shaft....using this method I have not lost a insert over the years.
Bill
I think the key to getting the inserts in is to properly prep the shaft and insert.I etch the inside of the shaft with a bore brush or prep tool and clean with alcohol.And I scratch the insert with some sandpaper to give it alittle teeth for the epoxy to hold.Then I use Bohning Powerbond or AAE two-part epoxy(24 hr.cure).I know alot of guys use hot melt,I have my self and ruined a new Carbonwood once.There is no carbon arrow manufacturer that recommends using any heat at all on there shafts,some even state that right on the shaft.I just don't like to use heat on my carbons.I haven't had any problems with loosing any inserts.
You can use hotmelt with carbons, you just need to be very careful and heat only the insert and NOT the carbon. Good shaft preparation is key, so use the acetone on the insert and the inside of the shaft.
Epoxy also works well, the bond is darn near permenant though, so once it's in, it's in.
I use just plain old superglue.
Two brands I've had great luck with are Loctite Control Gel, which has a little slower set time so you can clean everything up, and is thick enough it's very easy to control how much you put on. The other brand I've had great luck with is the Gorilla brand superglue. It's got more in the bottle and a much wider tip so it puts an even coat down quick on the insert/feathers. Set time's a little faster and it's more liquidy than the gel. I've found I actually perfer it.
I usually put three stripes down the insert, and twist them when I put them into the shaft. Count to 10, and it's done. Let it sit for a minute or two to fully set. If you ever need to remove them, take a drill bit that's roughly the same size as the inside of the arrow, put it flat side toward the insert, and slide it down the shaft. Put a pillowcase over the insert end of the shaft, and holding on to both the shaft and the case, swing the shaft toward the ground (like a swing hammer). A couple whacks and the insert will come out, just clean up with acetone and you're ready to go again!
Chris
I doubt you can "swing hammer" out an insert that's been installed with J-B Weld. I haven't tried to get one out so I don't know for sure though.. JB is good for this and most other "permanent" applications, IMO..
JB is an epoxy, btw..
loctite 4212 works well also
I use JB weld, don't use the quick set type of anything 24 hour cure is the kind you want, make sure both surfaces are clean, I use a 22 cal bore brush in a drill to clean the inside of the shaft, then clean them up with acetone.
Pat, yes you can "swing hammer" out an insert glued in with JB Weld. I've gotten a few out that way, but it certainly wasn't easy.
Second what JRY309 said. I clean with a damp q-tip. I heard alcohol and acetone can leave a residue that makes a bond less reliable. Don't know how true that is, but I can wait a few more seconds for the water to dry.
Rough up inside of shaft with a bore brush, sand the insert lightly, and epoxy that sucker in.
"Swing-hammering" doesn't work for me. Not since the incident with my wife's china cabinet, anyway. And with the roughing and epoxy, those things are TOUGH. I have a 36" steel rod from the hardware store. Cheaper than a good drill bit, too.
-Charlie
Quote"Swing-hammering" doesn't work for me. Not since the incident with my wife's china cabinet, anyway. [/QB]
I sense there's a story there. :biglaugh:
Thanks guys!