Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: RightTrailWrongTime on January 02, 2007, 12:30:00 PM
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Ok everyone, I realize that the bow I shoot has both wood, fiberglass and carbon in it but I've been thinking that I "should" be shooting wood arrows-
.... but I've had some difficulty in the past finding good wood shafts(experimented with many) and also being consistant with them.
I would like to shoot wood but shoot much better with aluminum, I have some carbons but rarely shoot them(reminds me of the wheel bow).
Bow specs are as follows in case anyone is wondering- PLX/ 52 @ 28/ draw 29/ usually cut arrows 30 bop.
What I am looking for is your opinions #1 ( yes I know I will ultimately have to decide what is best for me)
I find too that I keep switching back and forth and of course would be more consistant by sticking to one only!
Anyone shoot wood only? Carbon Only? Aluminum only?
In part I "think" I should shoot wood since I shoot "traditional" is this wrong?
AHHHHHHHHHH
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Few options...learn to make better arrows, buy arrows from a good source (do some searches here) or shoot aluminum (they work).
For the last part...I second the AHHHHHHHHHH!
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Shoot what works the best for you. Your widow
is more than likely 55#@29 and cut to center.
I would guess that a 65-70 spine wood will work.
What aluminum are you shooting? 2117's?? or maybe
2216's? Just guessing? I've had the best luck with
aluminum out of widows, but that's me. I shoot all
three wood, aluminum and carbon. It just depends on
what I'm going after. If wood is your choice I'd
try some Hex Pines from Whispering Wind there tough
and Bob knows arrow shafts.
good luck,
Scott
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A friend had trouble with woodies on his (then) Widow. His bow was cut past center which appears to impart its own problems with finding the right spine. One "fix" was to take off the original side plate on the rest and either bild it out a bit or add a thicker side plate. Don't go nuts, but build it up a bit. That allowed him to use lighter spined arrows and they actually shot better (for him). Find the kind that work for you and use them, don't matter if they are wood or graphite. Then have fun.
I happen to prefer wood, for several reasons... but mostly, cause I make em cheap and don't care if I break em taking a weird stump shot.
ChuckC
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Make better arrows.......mmm. Well I'm pretty darn picky so thats not it- Thanks though-
I did have good luck with most of the shafts I bought from Bob @ Whispering Wind- one batch great! Next batch was marked 50-55 scatched out and 65-70 written over it- these did not fly well but made a great gift for a friend!
Maybe I should get some more from him- I had the best luck with him and great service!
The aluminums I have been shooting are 2018's and 2020's legacy's. cut 30" The 2018's seemed to perform better.
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I used to shoot aluminum and when the urge struck to make my own I went back to wood. With wood you need to spend more time with the basics. Bareshafting is critical if you want them to fly right. Spend some time with the tuning sections here, and Ol Adcock's site too. Don't use the easton spine chart for wood.
I think there is one at Arrows by Kelly.
Whether or not you use the newer strings, and brace at the low end will make a big difference in spine choice. Get some shafts full length 70-85# and start following the techniques on OL's site before you even think about feathers and cresting and with any luck you will be a happy camper in no time.
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Anyone have any good poc shafts in the 65-70 range maybe to trade for whatever I can come up with?
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It took me forever to get cedars to fly right out of my 62#@27 SAIII. I monkeyed with all the norms:arrow spine,brace height,nocking point position.It drove me nuts.I have never had enough patience before, to do what Bjorn suggested.Bare shaft testing.But,it sure solved my problem.My widow likes arrow spine 12 to 15# higher than marked on the bow,and it seems that five inch feathers don't come off the rest well.but Four inch feathers make my arrows fly like darts.
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IMHO Shoot what works best for you and your equipment; if all three types of arrow shafts work thats great if not shoot what does.
Forget the idea that traditionl archery is a wooden arrow. If we look at the great legends of bowhunting and shooting (Howard Hill, Fred Bear, Ben Pearson, Jack Howard the list is really long) they all shot wood at first and switched as newer materials made the scene.
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Todd,
I also shoot 55#@29 and have shot 65-70# spined POC and Sitka shafts. I stick to alum. 2216's for hunting and use the wood for 3D's. Don't seem to get the consistency out of wood as my alum.
I like the feel and smell of POC(when they break) but when crunch time comes I always fall back to shooting alum.
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Todd - It is a process. The feeling of wanting to go back to aluminum is mutual. It took me a few batches and some trial/error to get my tuning in. Had to jump up 5 pounds in spine, lighter points, 1/2" shorter....the biggest advantage (I found) was not permantently gluing nocks until the fletching was done. That way I could tune the hen feather to ride right in the groove of the shelf.
Just took my first deer with a self-built arrow and must say it was well worth it. That was only a week ago, so I'm still glowing. :)
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Get woodgrained carbons and paint them up pretty.You can pretend they are wood and have a good arrow as well. :)
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HA! I already did that too James-
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I shot wood once. Then I found a carbon tree. Been growing them ever since.
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When I had alot more spare time.I would by woods by the 100's to get maybe 12 or so that tuned well.Then again I use to by shafts from Silver Arrow and most of them shot very consistant.Don't know if they are still around.
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I buy cedars from KustomKing and have had very good luck with them. I also have aluminum and carbon in the house. I have less trouble with wood than carbon, as far as tuning goes. Aluminum is easiest to get flight from. They are all acceptable at my campfires. I do like cedars for hunting though.
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I play the same game with arrows, Wood, carbon, aluminum. Which is best? Well my wife bought me a new bow for Christmas and some arrow making tools, ect. I got a dozen tapered cedar from kustom king, made them up, tuned ect. I can honestly say I have never seen an arrow shoot better out of a bow and accuracy is as good as I can shoot. I may be wrong but I have found my bows like cedar over all else, although poor quality cedar is a different story.
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I shoot wood because I really like the feel.........
Wood arrows just feel like hitting a ball well off a bat to me.
Plus I like the looks of them!
Tim ;-)
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Thanks for all the responces guys, always a pleasure to be on here with good folks!
Think I'll try to get a hold of some new woodies, it seems like thats what I want to shoot so I'll give it a try again!
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I get tapered shafts from Kustom King as well. I find they are very consistently matched, and shoot very well. The last dozen I made up turned out with about a 20 grain weight spread through the whole dozen, and they all shoot like darts out of my bow. I went to carbons a few years ago, and came back to wood. The biggest thing that changed my mind was realizing at a recent traditional 3D shoot, that almost everyone there was shooting carbons. I figure someone needs to keep the tradition going, LOL. I dont want my son to grow up thinking "I cant beleive you used to shoot arrows made out of WOOD??!!" Plus, you cant beat the smell of a broken cedar!!
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I get my wood shafts from Paul at Elite Arrows. It took me some time to find the right spine but now I can shoot the same arrows on 3 different bows. Paul actually sent me a bunch of test arrows to try. The quality is top shelf and price is very fair. I don't like to shoot my carbons anymore. Same as Tim stated previously, wood arrows just feel better.
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I'm suprized that not 1 person has asked what type of fletching jig/clamp you use.
I have not shot anything but wood arrows for the last 7 years or so (with the exception that THIS year I hunted with re-fletched aluminium XX75s that belonged to a friend of mine who passed away in Sept.) and I have NEVER had a problem with poor arrow flight,(grouping is another story but THAT is MY falt LOL)
First let me say that I do not make my own arrows.I buy my arrows custom made from Joe Skipp at Renegade Archery.Joe is a sponser here on TradGang.
Joe uses Bitzenburger fletching jigs with a VERY pronounced helical twist (I'm not possitive but I believe it's an 11 degree helical clamp) Joes arrows spin like a top and fly like a bullet!!!!! Also,I have NO problems with windplaneing broadheads.I use 2 blade Zwicky Eskimos and old green Bear Razorheads without the bleeder blades and I mount them horizontaly,they do NOT windplane at all.
Also,not all of my arrows are perfectly straight LOL.I buy a couple dozen arrows a year from Joe and right away the new arrows get stuffed into my backquiver.I try and use "newer" arrows for hunting,and after the dozen new arrows gets thinned out from being lost or broken the remaining arrows get stuck in a 5 gallon bucket for stumping and 3-D shoots.By the time my arrows are ready for the "graveyard" some of them are about as straight as a corkscrew,BUT they fly as "straight as an arrow" from the day Joe makes them till the day they die!!!!! :archer:
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I say with a 30" shaft and 55#s at 29"s ya should shoot 70-75#s as ya normally add 10-12# of spine fro a high performance LB and than another 5#s for every inch over 28"s in arrows length. I had a proto-type PL and it was 51#s at 28"s (I draw 28"s) and I shot 29" Sitka spruce shaft spined 65-70# with 125 grain head and it bareshafted perfect. Go to arrowsbykelly(foxfire traditional archery now, but same old web address. Tracy has some greta wood and his spine charts are right on the money. Shawn