Trad Gang

I shoot a PSE Impala 50 @ 28"  2216 arrows @ 29.5 " w/ 125 gr field points.

Been shooting almost every day for about a month now but my groups were not as good as I was hoping for.

I did some reading on here about bare shaft tuning and decided to give that a try.  I am shooting 5 each fletched arrows and 1 bare shaft at a 8" paper plate at 15 yards.  

My bare shaft was constantly nock low so I decided to adjust the nocking point but couldn't figure out how to get the old one off.  A little more searching and I had my answer.  

After adjusting my new nocking point this is how I did.  So far this is the best grouping that I have been able to achieve.  I did it twice in a row. Just want to know if I'm missing any fine tuning tips or if I should be happy with what I have.  Looks good to me but I'm open to suggestions.  I have a ton of vanes and will have to use them up before I can justify going to feathers but hope to do so when I'm out of vanes.

Front view
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/headon4.jpg)

Right view
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/rightview4.jpg)

Left view
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/leftview4.jpg)

If I understood the bare shaft tuning part the slight pointing to the right with the bare shaft will be corrected when I shoot a fletched arrow.  My other arrows look good to me but am I understanding the concept correctly?

Judging by the pic, your bareshaft looks to be too stiff, for a right handed shooter. (nock right)

try a heavier tip or longer arrows

Good shooting!

I disagree O&U.  According to Adcock's website the nock orientation doesn't matter, just where you hit in relation to the other arrows.  I would think you're spined right but would try stepping back another 10 yards and see if it stays the same.  Are you shooting off an elevated rest with those vanes?

Yes, I'm using a elevated rest. Nothing fancy just a plastic rest that screws in and out.  Right now it is screwed in as far as it will go to the right. ( I'm right handed)

After learning how to post the photos I was going to go out and shoot some more but it started raining.  Have to wait and see if it quits.

Pac, the way I learned it, if you're nock right it's a bit stiff. At 15 yards, though, I doubt it's enough to worry about. I bare shaft tune at close range, 5-10 yards, and when the bare shafts average straight over several shots, but a fuzz nock high, I'm there. I don't think it's necessary to the accuracy of fletched arrows, including broadheads, to try to fine tune it any further. There's a point of diminishing returns, as the accountants would say. Your arrows will shoot straight, even when you get rid of those vanes and have rain-plastered feathers.

try a 145 grn field tip every thing will get stright and you will end up in the center of the plate

Back up to about 30 yards and try. That will tell you things you can't see at close range.
SL

Pac, I shoot an Impala too 45#@28 but I draw 31" which = +-  53#.I had the same problem, with about the if I understand I may even be shooting the same rest.I turned the arm down to where it wasnt sitting exactle level and every thing cleared up, Only I be shooting feathers  and that makes a little difference .

I was told that when bareshafting to use a "soft" target. I use styrafoam...thats seems to give me a pretty accurate reading.

You're about 20 pounds over spined with those arrows...Van

2016 w/ 125 grn heads

If you want good flight try feathers and dump those vanes it is a trad bow after all and everything goes better with Feathers  

I'm no expert, but I agree with Van and MJB in particular. I shoot about the same poundage as you do and I found that a 2016 w/125 gr up front flies like a bullet.
Can't argue about your shooting results!!

I was shooting 2016s for the last month and they would zip right along.  They were alot faster but grouping was sporadic compared to the 2216s.  Not real bad but not as tight as the 2216s.  

I looked at several arrow charts for recurves and each one gave me a differnt size selection.  Not one of them agreed on what to get.  Since I have been using Eastons since 1982 their chart is what I decided to go with.  

I haven't tried the 2016s since adjusting the nocking point and will deffinately give it a go if it ever stops raining here.  I do like the speed better but like the accuracy even more. Who knows it may just be the way I shoot or my bow.  If the 2016s fly true now that I have tinkered with the bow I know that is what I would prefer to use.

Gord those aren't actually aluminum arrows with plastic vanes.  Those are authentic arrows made from the melted sabers of the imperialists and fletched with bone polished to a high sheen.

:biglaugh:

Today it finally stopped raining for a little bit so I went out and shot 2016's and 2216s side by side.  The 2016's deffinately fly good now that I have adjusted my nocking point.  Both groups are still a bit to the left but I had to shoot fast before the rain started again.  Both have 125 gr field points and the range was 15 yards.  I wish to thank those that suggested the 2016s and made me go out and give them another try.  My new 2216s just arrived today so I guess they will have to be mailed back and swapped for another dz 2016s.

The arrows on the left side are 2016 and the right side arrows are 2216

I shoot in my backyard in town and about 25 yards is as far as I can shoot.  I would have shot at that distance but I don't believe there would have been much of a group to compare.  I'll get there though.

Front view
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/comparefront2.jpg)

left view
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/compareleft2.jpg)

right view
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/pactac/compareright2.jpg)

Dumb question but I just thought of it.  I'm shooting off a flipper rest that can be adjusted left and right.  If I screw it out to the left a little bit will that move my point of impact to the right or left?