Really getting excited about hunting small game this year with a recurve. Just wondering what is your preferred head to use. Squirrel, rabbit etc
Thanks,
Mike>------->
my favorite still is a bullet field point with a washer behind it, cheap and effective
Judo Point
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g38/trapperDave/103_0034.jpg)
TrapperDave,
What kinda head is that , homemade ?
I've had good luck with the Judos for a lot of years. Had a spine issue last year and needed something heavier on the tip. Found Hex blunts in heavier weights and they, too, work well. Almost as good as far as not burying under leaves/grass, and easier in an out of quiver.
Steve
that looks like one of northshore's blunts. the bludgeon small game blunts from 3 rivers with the edges cut in to make little teeth that grab the grass.
Ace Hex Heads do the job.
Manny calls em Tarantulas
i really like the hex by ace... those babies kill by blunt trauma and still do some cutting...
a 5/16" nut is killer on a woodie too...
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/jacobsladdergrice/100_4334.jpg)
WINGNUTTERS!!!!!!!!!! :bigsmyl:
Steve GREAT PIC :thumbsup:
I drill a small hole through a field pointed arrow and then put a just fits finishing nail through it. Bend it back a bit so it won't slide out and cut so as to leave about 1/4 inch on each side. If the field point matches the broadhead weight, it shoots to match and does anchor small game. Started doing this after I shot a blue grouse on a high ridge one morning with a standard field tip. Arrow went part way through and hit the ground and the grouse took off over the valley. Musta soared a half mile.
I read too many horror stories about blunts. even hex.
convinced me to just buy the real small game heads. with the replaceable blades but the tip is cut flat and the arrow itself doesn't taper. It's blunt where the blade is inserted. so it should cut and break at the same time.
I'm not going to shoot squirrels in trees, just 5lb swamp bunnies and these house cat sized red squirrels that are always on the ground, as well as the occasional nutria. And these are semi large "small game" so I don't wanna mess around.
You get the arrows back, its not like they go tearing through the woods with it. So what is a one time investment of ten or fifteen more dollars?
Ace Hex head, but my favorite is an older broadhead that i keep somewhat sharp, stops em right away. I've see squirrells take a Hex head in the vitals with a ragged pass through and run away, but with a BH they stop instantly. MHO.
P.
gonna use a mix of rubber blunts, hex blunts, judos, old braodheads, steel blunts, and homemade heads for cottontails this year, but for squirrels its old broadheads only
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QuoteOriginally posted by MJB:
TrapperDave,
What kinda head is that , homemade ?
The Gopher got right.
blunts from 3rivers with notches cut into it, they stop on a dime in grass :)
Along the same lines as Terry I like to use the old Bodkins....cheap and they really stop squirrels in their tracks. Killing tree rats is not always easy and the bodkins really do the job especially if I rough sharpen them on my belt sander so they have a burr edge.
The most effective small game point I've used is probably also the cheapest and easiest...the nutter. Make a taper on the arrow like for a glue on point, thread a hex nut on to the taper and add a drop of super glue. You get enough penetration and excellent shock from the nut. Pat
I have started using a bullet-headed field point of the same weight as my broadheads, with a washer do-dad called a "gobbler stopper" behind it. Works great on rabbits and other smaller game like tree rats.
We try and shoot a few ducks every year. We put the gobler stoppers behind a broadhead. It does good.
OkKeith
In my opinion a broadhead is the only way to go. I usualy have more than enough beaters or old heads lying around. Some of my favorite are the Bodkins already mentioned.
G5 small game head.....has done really well for me...the center portion delivers a blunt trauma force while the 3 " claws" do alot of rippin'. i also just got some Muzzy SG-X's, look good but not for squirrels in trees.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/standard-pod.jsp?id=0032836&navCount=1&parentId=cat600306&masterpathid=&navAction=push&cmCat=MainCatcat21424-cat600306&parentType=in dex&indexId=cat600306&rid= (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/standard-pod.jsp?id=0032836&navCount=1&parentId=cat600306&masterpathid=&navAction=push&cmCat=MainCatcat21424-cat600306&parentType=index&indexId=cat600306&rid=)
the g5s look good, but man thats expensive!, 20.00 for three!
Hey Terry I have a WW I could spare to convert into that but my question is will they bury into they ground if you miss making them hard to find?
yeah 20 bucks is steep but i got a deal on them at an archery shop closing....9 bucks for the 3 pak. once i run out ill be using the hex heads again:)
As far as commercially made small game heads, I'll take Ace Hex Heads, hands down. But for home made heads, I like a bullet casing with a blade.
Ace Hex.
For gophers or just plane roving -- I've switched to using Condors ("Same features of of standard judo point but with 2" spring arms"). Tired of losing those expensive carbon shafts in the weeds.
Hex head works for me.
Billy
I second the post about using a fender washer behind a field point. I've shot many a grouse out of trees and the blunt force of that combo just about stops all vital signs immediately. Plus, you can pull back to full draw without worrying about pass throughs.
I like to bend the washer forward. I keep a few aluminum arrows around just for this purpose.
I just ordered some muzzy sg-x's. They're kinda like a judo but have the hard tip they use for most of their broadheads.
If you mmmmmmmiss, you can still find your arrow.
For those of you that mmmmmiss........ :-)
just shot my first blackbird at my grandfathers yesterday using one of my new SG-X's. man! what some damage. caught him eating at hte base of the bird feeder:)
I have a hunting buddy who uses a field point with a bottle cap behind it (concave forward). He says twist-offs work the best (no rebending). He uses mostly Blue Moon, with a Warstiner thrown in for really difficult shots.
Drill a hole in the center and put it on like a washer.
OkKeith
I'll stick with the Del Ma MA3s. Cheap, cheerful & will put the hurting on anything with a face. Keep 'em sharp & you needn't switch heads if you happen accross a piggy or deer! :D
I like the PDP Game Nabber. It has a small point on a blunt tip with flared serrated edges at the rear that keep the arrow from pulling out. (See the following link)
http://www.abbeyarchery.com.au/p/PDGN125CP/PDP+Game+Nabber+small+game+point+125gr+6+pack.html
Lot's of excellent choices. THANKS !!
My current favorite is the SGH from G5. Also a good stump shooter that doesn't get lost. However, it seems like they have stopped making them--they were a bit pricey at about $7 each. Devastating head.