I have a bow-bolt on my RER Vortex, which I love, which has loosened up considerable since I bought it. Sometimes when I shoot it the handle twists a little so the riser isn't completely aligned properly. Don't know if it is when I have a less than clean release or if it is from my grip above and below the connection point causing torque on the bow. Also, when the bow is braced, you can seed a small gap where the foreward parts of the riser come together. Don't know if that is normal or not. Anywone with similar findings or a solution. I love the bow, but I am frequently unstringing the bow to realign it.
I had one that did the same thing, it eventually came apart ,WHILE shooting, scary to say the least. up until the point it gave way I kept wondering if the gap in the front was normal.
Actually a little gap in the front is normal when strung. Are you shooting a bow quiver on the bow? I've seen others have a problem with a quiver torquing the bow and loosening the bolt.
Mike
Thanks for the input guys. I don't use a quiver so it may be something with my grip. It seems to be getting more pronounced. I wonder if a thin layer of some type of epoxy that resists compression could be used toward the rear to even it out. It seems like it must be putting stress on the inside of the riser. I'm including some pictures braced as well as unbraced so you can see the difference.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000608.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000606.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000583.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000611.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000610.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000612.jpg)
pat, take the bow apart and post pic's. look and see if it looks like the bolt & sleeve are coming out of the handle.
Also try bow string wax on the bolt, see if that helps keep it tight
I don't think I could shoot that without wincing. I hope that's not normal!
I'll try to take it apart and take pics, but probably can't get to it today. Wax might help keep it from turning, but I don't think it will help with the gap. Thanks for the input Sal.
I'll never shoot another one again.
I'm praying that there is a solution. I really love this bow.
OK, here's some pics of the bolt. Don't know if this will help any. It seems like the hardware is flush with the spacer, at least when not braced.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000616.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000617.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000618.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000619.jpg)
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd102/pdk25/P1000621.jpg)
I'm guessing that this is one longbow that probably shouldn't be left strung.
rub string wax on the handle around the bolt & sleeve. screw it back together then brace... pull back 5 times then remove and look at the wax. This should tell you ( show ) if there is any high spots that might be messing up your bow.
Always worked for pool sticks
This system is similar to the one they use for takedown bolt action rifles. They get loose after a while in rifles so I was curious how it would hold up in a bow. Sounds like they have the same problem....
The bolt doesn't look to be centered in the grip to me. It's off to one side. I'm not sure how these things are supposed to work but it seems to me that could cause problems. Just a thought.
Thanks Mr. Nash,
I think it just the angle of the photo. It is actually centered about as well as can be for an oval surface.
Anyone with any thoughts on how to proceed. Does this need to be fixed? Is there a way to fix it? I'd even consider a method to convert this to a different type of takedown bow or another type of connection system.
I think I agree with BMN. But maybe it is just the angle of the photo? Steve
I would be contacting Warren Archery, he is a Sponsor and he builds the Bow Bolt system, and bring this thread to his attention and ask him if he can give you any ideas.
Bill
QuoteOriginally posted by pdk25:
Thanks Mr. Nash,
Stop that! It makes me feel older than I am :D
Maybe it is the photo angle but it sure looks off center. I think I would measure it to be sure.
Bill
p.s. How are those grizstiks working for you?
Patrick, don't wait another minute. Call The folks at RER and tell them your problem. Tell them you did buy it used. E-mail the pictures if needed. They are great folks. They are the ones that can help you solve your dilemma.
I would see what your bowyer has too say. I've had 3 bows with bow bolts blow up on me, and I've had 4 survive. 2 of the survivors belong to me and I shoot them alot, I'm taking one to Africa next week, and the other 2 belong to friends who shoot them alot. The biggest thing I see in your photos is that Craig Warren told me after I had my problems to move the bolt as far forward as I could get it, yours is pretty much in the middle. The bow I'm taking to Africa is 66" 61# @ 29" and I've put a few thousand arrows through it and it's still very tight. If yours is loose I would say that there is a problem. If your bowyer is no help contact Craig Warren, he's a great guy with a quality product and will do what he can to help you. Installing the bolt is a complicated process and one small mistake can cause failure, trust me! Craig looked at my photo's and helped me as to what I was doing wrong in the instillation and as far as I'm concerned the bow bolt is the best take-down system out there, provided it's installed in the right handle, properly. That's my 2 cents.
That is good information everyone. I sent an e-mail to Kevin and Sue, but I don't know when the will get to check it. They are great people. I wonder if the bow bolt can be moved somehow at this late stage in the game? If Kevin can't do it, maybe some other bowyer could. I just really like the way the bow shoots and don't want it to blow up before I can get it fixed.
Does the riser have Phenolic in it? Craig recommends that it be used in Phenolic risers or risers with a good section of Phenolic in it.
Bill
The riser is dymondwood and the ends have some sort of insert, capping the cut ends.
PAT,, Now you know L/B's are supposed to be ONE Pc. !! Just kiddin ya BUD, hope ya get it taken care of, I know how much you like that bow.. Good Luck...
When you say it is loosening is it unthreading or is there play like the parts don't mesh as tight as they did when new. If it's unthreading you might try a little medium strength loctite (blue) on the threads. Do the mating parts show any signs of wear or stress?
Get in contact with Craig Warren, he has a fix for the unthreading part.
There is nothing unsafe about how that bolt was put in. Kevin left at least 1/4" of dymondwood all the way around the bolt. Craig recommends at least 1/8". I install my bolts further toward the back of the bow but also have a smaller grip then the RER does.
As far as the gap on the back of the riser. That is normal. I've built 10 bows with bow bolts and they all had that gap when the bow was strung. I believe that there must be a little play in the threads so when the bow is strung the gap is present.
As far as the bow unthreading check with Craig on that one. He does have a solution but I can't remember what that is. I'd try wrapping the threads with thread tape to snug everything up. I do that on my screw in field points to keep them from loosing up when I shoot LW feathers.
I wouldn't worry about the bow if it were mine. Chad
Thanks very much for the input everyone. I will get in contact with Mr. Warren about the unthreading. I'm glad to hear from Chad Holm about his experience with the bows. I have shot a couple of thousand arrows through the bow and it still shoots great, although I can't always say the same for me. I will talk to Kevin at RER and see if he thinks it is a problem. If not I will keep on shooting it. Will play it by ear for now. Sorry to hear about all the bow's that blew up. Hopefully mine won't be one of them.
Using the thread tape is a real good idea, I use to have a noisy take down recurve until I wraped the limb bolts with thread seal tape and the difference was unbelievable, it made it feel like a different bow when being shot....Glenn....
I had problems with mine so I sold the bow. However the guy who makes them (Warren I think) wrote to me with the solution on how to fix it.
If you write to him he can inform you.
I need to have confidence in my setup and this certainly wasn't it. I now only shoot three piece T/D L/B's, they are indestructible, more accurate with the mass in the riser and instill confidence!
Sutto
I've got a Morrison Cougar 49# @ 28 that Ted Frye installed a Warren Bow Bolt into. It was a nice job in terms of craftsmanship and the system works well after 2 years + of shooting.
The question I have is regarding the durability of the two sections of laminate that touch each other when the bow is put together. If those pieces of laminate are a soft wood it seams like they might compress, creating a gap after the pasage of time and many arrows.
As I see it either the bolts are pulling out, the metal in the bolts has stretched or perhaps bent, or the mating surfaces (wood laminate) have collapsed slightly
I think we're all forgetting that a riser, even a metal one, flexes when the bow is strung and shot. The whole thing, bolt included flexes. That alone would make you see a gap at the front of the riser while strung.
The only bow I've seen that came unscrewed when shot had the tips slightly out of alignment.
Despite problems with the way some bowyers install the bolt, I think it's the slickest 2pc system out there and when installed per the instructions it can't be beat! :)