Can someone please direct me to a proper layout for a Flemish string jig? I've come across a couple on the 'net but they slightly different dimensions in the layout.
What do you use?
I started tying my own strings about two months ago. I haven't messed with the continuous loop, I just like the look and feel of the flemish braid. Here is a link for a jig as well as pretty thorough instructions.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/ragiwarmbear/diy/flemish/flemish.html
Hope it helps. I have found that with B50 I get a little stretch initially and the first couple of strings came out a little long so I had more twist in them than I wanted. I recommend check the length of your string with the bow strung to proper brace height then tie your string to length before you twist it. Good luck.
There's different lay-outs that will give you basically the same length bundles. I'd be sure to use a design that goes by string length, not bow length.
Chad
Thanks, guys.
Chad, your Inbox is full.
I don't use a jig at all. Two nails in a wall or on your workbench will work just fine. Just figure the length of the finished string you will need, add 16" for the twists,and that's all there is to it.
Good luck!
QuoteOriginally posted by SCATTERSHOT:
I don't use a jig at all. Two nails in a wall or on your workbench will work just fine. Just figure the length of the finished string you will need, add 16" for the twists,and that's all there is to it.
Actually, that does make a lot of sense.
So, how come so many folks use jigs - space restrictions?
I use an oak 1" x 1" board about six feet long.
It has two nails spaced equal to half the length of the raw string length. Simply tie a loop on one end of the string and attach it to nail #1, wrap it up around nail #2 and back, and you have one strand of your string. Wrap it up and back five times, and you have five strings. Simple as pie.
I also have it marked for the length from Nail #1 to the finished length of the strings for my wife's bow and my 66" Hill bows.
I can't even imagine why someone would use one of the complex string jigs. They seem like something that compound shooters would love.
Simpler is better.
$.02 worth:
One reason to use a jig versus 2 nails - the strands that make up each bundle produced by a jig will be tapered which (per the link csdqm2 posted) means that "Staggering the string ends helps to lock each strand in place as you make the bowstring loops".
Also - staggering strands in each bundle means a smoother, better looking string.
I have one in the back in the how to's but it is set up for amo length but the string is the same. make one and measure how long it is and write it on the jig.
rik we need pics my man with a leson on how to do it. sounds like a good simple jig. :clapper:
I wrote an article on it for Instinctive Archer Magazine with plenty of photos. If any of you have the back issues, take a look.
i dont as we dont get that mag here.
HO'NEHE JEFF,
I didn't realize you were down in Beautiful New Zealand (Lucky guy!).
I just built a new string yesterday, would have been a perfect time to take some pictures.
I will see if I can locate some of the photos from the article.
JDice, you mentioned using the complicated jig because it allows a person to stagger the strings ends.
You can accomplish the same thing with the two-nail method by simply staggering the strings before you wax them into the three bundles. Takes all of two seconds. Piece 'O Cake.
I don't stagger the ends on the strings I make. I either trim them with scissors (when I want them to look clean and civilized)or leave them rough for the ragged look (my favorite).
String jigs with more than 2 nails are complicated??? what happens when the bow is different than the nails do you have to use one of those really complicated things with all the numbers on them??? adding 16 inches to the bow length is good for a 8" turn back but some use different end lay outs!! ;-)
Like everything else - to each his own.
The Feb/Mar 2006 issue of Traditional Bowhunter has a how to on flemish strings complete with instructions and dimensions for a jig that has worked very well for me and was very simple to make. It also has instructions on how to make your strings, including the number of strands to use for the different types of materials. You can get it for 5 bucks on Tradbow.com in the back issues.
QuoteI can't even imagine why someone would use one of the complex string jigs. They seem like something that compound shooters would love.
Complex? :biglaugh: Folks that know me will fall over laughing if they see that! I'm the polar opposite of "complex", and I'd hate to be without my string board.
The most complex thing about making a board is using a tape measure--the same thing you use if you drive two nails in a board or a work bench. Using one just requires being able to count and read numbers.
If you only make one or two lengths, or if you have a workbench you don't mind driving nails into on a regular basis, or if you have plenty of room to store 6' 1-by's...I can see not needing a board. Otherwise, they are really nice to have.
A board isn't required to make a string, but it's very handy and makes things go quicker, especially if you make several different length strings. Using one is less complicated than a game of "tic-tac-toe", building one is less complicated than a boy scout birdhouse.
If you want to get right down to it, you don't need a jig at all, or even a tape measure. Pull off your strands long enough that you know they will work, make one loop, and tie a bowyer's knot in the other end. You can also just measure the strands individually--takes more time that way, but it works.
If you have an endless jig, it works just like driving two nails in a board/workbench, except no hammer. To stagger the bundles, just start dropping a strand every twist or every other twist before you get to the end.
Tom, got the inbox cleaned out and sent you a reply.
Chad