Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: benny on February 22, 2007, 07:39:00 PM
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What size aluminum shaft to fit a black st axis 400?
Benny
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2020 is the best choice...2020's are super tough on their own....will make the Axis damn near indestructable.
"Foot" the first 2 inches, and the inch at the nock.
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What BJK said.....
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So what one fits the carbonwoods? Shawn
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Ya might need 21XX...I can check wehn I get home from work...in about 3 hrs...you'll likely be up, though... ;)
What Scotty said, really...his recipe...works perfect.
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BJK is correct.
In case you go to the 400 Woodgrain Bemans you will need 2018.
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Thanks for the info guys. I have footed 500 st axis with 1916, only the front. Why do you foot at the nock?
Benny
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Never heard of anyone footing the nock end.
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Why foot the carbons, what does it do? Mike
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I used 2112 to do my carbon express shafts.I did the nock end as we see them split there also. Carbon express sells "collars" for their shafts nock end. I used old shaft as I am cheap.
I guess it is the way the shaft impacts the hard object(rocks, stakes, etc.) that determine how the shaft will split and which end. I have been told that keeping them in target keeps them from splitting. Guess I will keep footing them then.
Tom
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While on the subject, what size for axis 340, the same?
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Originally posted by no:
Why foot the carbons, what does it do? Mike
It protects the point end and they last longer.
I had shot one dozen into targets only and wore the surface over the first few inches of the shafts. Some of my shafts mushroomed (got wide just behind the point and failed with strands peeling off) shortly after that -- but that might be due to glue failure. (Easton changed their adhesive recommendation last year, I think. and my shafts were assembled with the "old" product.)
I cut 2" lengths of aluminum tube, chamfered one end, and glued 'em on. A good deal.
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Pics of footing process please? JW
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2020's work on Axis 340's like a charm.
No pics needed, really. It's an easy process. Find the aluminum size shaft that fits snugly over the front of your shaft. Cut 2" off for the footing. Lightly rough up the carbon and inside of the footing. Slather epoxy on the shaft and slide the fitting down until the end of the footing is even with the end of the shaft. Wipe off excess epoxy and let cure. The footing should butt against the field point or BH.
You can chamfer the end of the footing if you wish to provide a smooth transition if you draw the footing into the shelf and it catches on the shelf material.
You'll only need about 1/4" of aluminum shaft if you're doing the nock end, but the process is the same.
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What about footing them with the aluminum insert left in the footed portion and then screwing in your point to that? It adds more weight and eliminates the trouble of the transition between the point/bh and carbon shaft and also eliminates the need for a broadhead collar. What do you guys think?
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I think you would defeat the purpose. The area behind the RPS insert would become a hinge point and break.
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What Scott said...the idea here is to take a VERY durable shaft and make it damn near indestructable...there are three weak points, either end and the area immediately behind the HIT insert. The two inches in front cover the front and the area behind the HIT. The bit in the back keep that area from splitting...the shafts are bomb proof.
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I never thought of doing that before..Anyone know what it takes for gold tip traditional 7595's? I need to make some stumpers anyway.
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Any suggestions for Beman ICS Venture 300's? JW
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What about AD Nitro Stinger Greens?
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I have been thinking about footing some of the Beaman MXF shaft that I shoot, but I don't like the idea of having an arrow longer then I need. How many of you guys that foot your shaft draw the footing up on the rest/shelve or do you all leave them long? I was thinking about this and if I make the transition smooth, it should almost shoot like a tapered shaft with the front end being larger then the back. It would also reduce the spine by the add weight and the reduction of center shot.
James
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BiC,
Unlike most that have posted, I only use 1" of foot. This is long enough to cover the area not supported by the axis insert and adds only about 10 grains (already have 250g up there). My arrows are just long enough so I don't draw up on the footed section. I beleive you are thinking correctly about it acting as a tapered shaft...
I do run the back of the footings over my rifle cartridge brass chambfer for a tapered transition.
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Originally posted by bowhunterinchile:
I have been thinking about footing some of the Beaman MXF shaft that I shoot, but I don't like the idea of having an arrow longer then I need. How many of you guys that foot your shaft draw the footing up on the rest/shelve or do you all leave them long?
I worried about that, too, but it seems that carbon arrows cut to the same length as my wooden arrows don't fly well. I can't say that I've got it all figured out, but longer carbons seems to group better (for me -- so far) and the 2" sleeve isn't on my shelf.
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Wudstix -
I use 2413 on AD Trad Lites - should work on the greens too, I'd imagine.
I've drawn the footing into the shelf without problem. On thinner footings I don't worry about the transition, but if it catches on your shelf material you can chamfer then back end of the footing with a dremel easily enough.
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In regards to the Axis/Beman shafts I try to keep some 2020, 2018 and 2016 shafts or pieces around for footing them. The black shafts are more suited to using the 2020 and 2018 and the camo or woodgrain shafs seem to do well with the 2016. I use 1" pieces and use 2 ton epoxy to keep them in place.
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In regards to the Axis/Beman shafts I try to keep some 2020, 2018 and 2016 shafts or pieces around for footing them. The black shafts are more suited to using the 2020 and 2018 and the camo or woodgrain shafs seem to do well with the 2016. I use 1" pieces and use 2 ton epoxy to keep them in place.
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Any one have any pictures of some of the shafts they've footed? It would be nice to see a couple to see what they look like......
Thanks,
David
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(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/osminski/DSC00729.jpg)
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Thanks Steve.
David
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(http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/1376/2091887790037109063S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2091887790037109063fHMqbx)
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Goldtip wood grain 35/55=2216,55/75=2215.
Benny
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Ok you have most of the basics (length, glue type)
For shaft size/diameters. Measure the OD of your carbon, take that number to the "Arrow Fitting Charts" here (TG) in the How To section. Pick your correct AL size, cut to your desired length. Now for the square edge that will hit your riser. Take a reloaders deburring tool and chamfer the beack edge so it makes a nice smooth transition.
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So a 2114 will work on my blackhawk vapors the black version of carbonwoods? Shawn
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So a 2114 will work on my blackhawk vapors the black version of carbonwoods? Shawn
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I'll throw one more issue into this thread. I've repaired some carbon shafts that I busted the ends but the rest of the shaft remained intact. As it was they was useless to me, but I put a three inch piece of aluminum arrow over the tip end of the carbon. I suddenly turned my junker pile of carbons back into usable arrow shafts again. I've shot several of them and none of them have given me any problems. Not sure how the footed end changes my arrow flight as I have not bare tuned any of these shafts. I suspect their is a difference and will take some tuning to get them perfect.
Chris
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I footed some Beaman MFX Classic 400's with a 1-1/2" section of a 2018 legacy. There turned out nice and the shafts seem to fly better. Not sure if it is from the added weight or the taper affect. I am drawing the footing up onto the shelf rest. I tapered the back of the footing and I can not feel it going up on the shelf at all. It remains to be seen if the front of the arrow will break now when I hit a rock or something. I will post a pic later.
Thanks,
James
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Here is a photo of my footing. These arrows just seem to fly better with the footing. I will be footing all my carbons from now one.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/JPStangs/DSCN3024.jpg)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/JPStangs/DSCN3027.jpg)