Just wondering what grips on the bow you guys prefer.
I find I get better results with "heel" on my bow hand. Better control= better accuracy at longer distances.
I tried a high wrist grip, but found my groups widen beyond belief.
I can get repeatable results with heel on the bow out to 30 yards.
Any input would be appreciated.
Steve
I like straight grips. For example, the straight or dished grips on Hills and Great Northerns or the very slight index on a Roberston. I think it's easier to handle heavier weight better with a low wrist/heel down grip as opposed to a high wrist grip.
And it's less stressful on my bow arm. I found my form, I'm ready for my moose hunt this September.
Now all I have to do is find a way to control target panic....(cause I know I'm gonna be up close and personal with these monster moose :archer: )
Steve
Steve...I wish I had some great advice for you. I am a Black Widow recurve fan and love my Widow with a very high grip. Decided to add a long bow to the arsenal so I bought a Pronghorn. Wonderful bow, dead in the hand, light, and beautiful...HOWEVER...I can not get used to the low "heel" grip necessary to shoot a long bow so I bought a second Widow recurve and the long bow will be for sale shortly. Good Luck!!! If you master the "heel" grip you are more of a man than me! Cotton
I go high wrist on recurves, but definitely prefer low wrist on longbows.... speaking now of real longbows, not hybrids. I have had them with straight, dished and locator and can shoot all of them , but have come to appreciate the straight. i think it helps make the heeling of the grip more automatic and natural.
Dick in seattle
I like the Shrew grip the best! Something about that grip makes my groups really small.
I like the hybrid style of grip. I find that I don't really put my whole hand into the grip like I used to. My bottom two fingers sort rest on the front of the riser making my knuckles slope, rather than parallel to the riser. Most of my grip is done with my thumb and first two fingers, and I do feel the riser push into the meat of my thumb where it connects to my hand.
I shoot Hill-style longbows and prefer the straight grip or slightly dished one. I had one Jerry Hill longbow with a locator grip and it gave me a lot of string-slap on my bow arm wrist.
I love my Tomahawk Diamond SS, fast smooth and powerful.
I think I pretty much mastered it, the low wrist(heel) grip really helped alot. I made consistant hits at 30 yards on my 4x4 block and it felt great.
I had a Hill Big Five for awhile from a fellow trader, which I also shot low-wrist with great results.
I am very glad I made the switch longbows.
Steve
What Orion and Dick said. :saywhat: But it's all fun. :goldtooth:
I have longbows, in Straight, Dished, Locator and Reverse handle. Of them all I found the locator grip the hardest to get use to. And I know that's just a matter of personal preference not design.
I don't know your opinion of Mr. G Fred Asbell. But I have his shooting DVD and he explains the difference in grips. He states the wrist high grip is for recurves and the low wrist is for longbows. The reasoning is because there is a difference in the center of the bow. If you shoot wrist high with a longbow it unevenly bends the limbs when you pull. This uneven bending gives you poor arrow flight. It looked plausible in his DVD. The bottom limb appeared to flex more than the top. I shoot my longbow with a low wrist grip and have put my recurve away. Good luck this fall.
Jeremy
Griffin-shrew grip
depends on the shooter & bow.... My shrew likes both high & low, My ROP likes low better then high....
I shoot a Hill style bow with straight grip. I find if my last knuckle of my thumb is in line with the mid line of the bow I have my grip correct. If not I have all kinds of trouble. I would say I have a low wrist.
heel under thumb on a straight grip works for me. If I get too much hand into the grip my groups fall off. Mike
I love the grip on my Crow Creek Black Feather and I think I'm also going to like the grip on my Cook's Mountain El Puma which is in the mail headed my way.
Black Feather grip:
(http://usera.imagecave.com/wlamb1647/Crow_Creek_Longbow/CrowCreekRiserLeftSide.jpg)
(http://usera.imagecave.com/wlamb1647/Crow_Creek_Longbow/CrowCreekRiserRightSide.jpg)
El Puma grip:
(http://usera.imagecave.com/wlamb1647/Cooks_Mountain_El_Puma_Longbow/001.jpg)
(http://usera.imagecave.com/wlamb1647/Cooks_Mountain_El_Puma_Longbow/003.JPG)
Bill
fdlz: Most recurves are constructed with medium or high wrist grips, and most longbows with low wrist grips, and the type of grip determines how the bow should be held and shot.
But grip type really has nothing to do with where the center of the bow is. Whether the grip is in the center of the bow or not depends on how the bowyer crafts the bow, not the type of bow/grip it is. For example, most bowyers put the arrow rest about 1 1/4 - 1 3/8 inch above the center of the bow, regardless of whether they're building longbows or recurves. I know this because I've been measuring and recording bow centers for the past 10 years.
Also, keep in mind that this is center of the bow, not pivot point, which would likely be about 3/4 inch from the arrow shelf when the shelf is 1 1/4 above the center of the bow. But again, its position wouldn't vary from recurve to longbow, only the amount the riser is cut in or indexed at the pivot point. It will be much more indexed on medium and high wrist recurve risers.
Some bowyers may put the rest as much as 2 inches above the center of the bow. It's not terribly common on glass laminated bows, but they do exit, and it is quite common on self-bows because the bowyer often lets the bow's limbs determine which will be the top and bottom during the tillering process. With a 4-inch grip area, it's just a matter of flipping the bow end for end before cutting in the arrow shelf (2 inches above the center of the bow).
All bows, regardless of type, will bend the lower limb more if the grip isn't exactly in the center of the bow, i.e., the rest isn't 2 inches above the center of the bow, because the limbs are of unequal length with the lower limb being shorter. That's why bowyers generally incorporate a quarter inch or so of positive tiller into the top limb.
Seem to do my best shooting with Great Northern's Jackknife straight grip, and agree with Orion that the straight grip allows me to shoot 5-8 lbs heavier comfortably.
i think the grip, the bow, your individual hand, you, and the boyer, all need to become one with each other. thats why there are somany different bows out there. That is why there are custom bows because everyone is different. I took a lump of modelling clay and grabbed it with my bowhand to make a mould to send to my boyer. that way he has my hand in mind when building my bow.