Trad Gang

Having trouble getting my heads to stay on my aluminum adapters no matter how much glue I use. When practicing with layered foam target it does fine,but everything else comes right off(have a Snuffer in a piece of foam right now I that haven't had time to dig out).My worry is in case of not having a pass through this fall that I'll end up with razor blades floating around while I'm dressing game.But hot melt is the only thing I know of that I can reheat and adjust to get my heads spinning true.
So what are my options?I know this is a rookie question but I need help  :banghead:  !


THanx,
Ethan

are you using ferrule-tite hot melt

Ethan,
Make sure you REALLY clean both the adapters and inside the ferrule of the broadhead.
If necessary, use a little heat to burn off the machine oil from inside the broadhead ferrule.
Acetone or denatured alcohol have worked well for me.
If you decide on a different type of glue, Goat Tuff makes a de-bonder that works on their Goat Tuff glue if you need to remove the head to adjust them, alot of the glues are heat reversable.
Hope this helps
John

I personaly use a two part epoxy. The one I use is made by Devcon and has about a five minute working time which is plenty long enough to get that head aligned and spinning true.

my buddy used jb weld to glue his wensels to adapters,worked well for him.i like to use 2 ton 2 part epoxy for my woodies.mix it up put on arrow tip put on broadhead and spin balance.let sey up over night before you shoot em..will be rock hard and wont come off..if you want them off just heat up with small propane torch.they will pop off so watch where you point them.[sometimes]

As stated above, you need to de-grease the broadhead and the adapter. You didn't say what kind of hot melt you're using, but the hobby stuff won't work. There are different grades of hot melt at the hardware store, but for now just make sure to use Ferrl-Tite or other archery cement.

Good luck!

I've been using regular sticks of hot melt for years without any problems. The secret is to make sure you clean the inside of the head prior to gluing. I usually heat the inside, and then clean it good with a piece of rag over a tappered insert screwed into a shaft. Then, I take a small piece of sand paper and rap it around the tappered end of a shaft and clean the inside again. After that, I use acetone to finish the job. If you do this, your heads should stay put.

Thanks a bunch guys.I'm embarassed to say I haven't thought to degrease my heads and adapters.I'm probably using hobby stuff as I have millions of sticks of this stuff laying around from all the craft making that went on in this family.I assumed that overall it was all the same(never assume).Does JB weld come loose in heat?(probably another dumb question)


Thanks guys.I love having this site,
Ethan

It is very important to heat the ferral, adaptor and glue all at once.  What I do is heat the adaptor, melt some glue on, and heat up the broadhead ferral and stick 'er on. After sticking it on i like to twist the broadhead in making sure that there is an even amount of hot melt.  And you're set.

Steve

I have always used Ferrule Tite since the early days  and I have NEVER, NEVER, EVER had a point come off an arrow, no matter what I shot it into. Don't know what you are doing wrong but I suspect it has been mentioned above. Good luck with it.

Personally, I don't care for the Ferrule-Tite as well as the regular industrial grade glue sticks from the hardware store.  You have to get the yellow ones, not the clear/white kind like used for crafts.  The darker the glue, the harder it sets up.  Ferrule-Tite is a little too hard in my opinion but it's been around a long time and is the "standard" for glue on tips.  The stuf from the hardware store is a lot cheaper and I think works a bit better as it doesn't get brittle at all.

J-B Weld those heads and they'll not come off..
Cheap and readily available. You can mix a "pea" sized glob at a time, great stuff.. I'm sure with heat it will break free ---- but I don't know how much heat is required..  OTH, I don't want them coming off !

Lots of folk go to great lengths to degrease their points prior to glue-up, not necessary and very time consuming. It is much easier to wrap a piece of sandpaper around a piece tapered shaft or adapter in this case, insert it in the point and turn it a few times. You end up with bare metal inside the point, tap the dust out and you are ready to glue. I use two part 5 minute epoxy and never loose a point.

heat WILL NOT loosen jb weld

I only use Ferrel-Tite. Never had a problem.   :thumbsup:

I always clean the inside of the heads with denatured alcohol before applying ANY glue, hot-melt or epoxy.  Works well when gluing my steel inserts into Woodmans.

I heat the inside of the broadhead with a propane torch, melt some Ferrul-Tite and smear a little on the taper, and push the broadhead on firmly while holding it with pliers. Rotate the arrow while pushing to spread the glue, and spin the arrow on its point to check that it's perfectly straight on the shaft. If not, apply a little more heat if necessary (it may have cooled some by now), rotate the head with the pliers, and spin again. Repeat until the head spins true. If the point taper is straight, it will usually work the first time. A broadhead has to be on straight to be accurate.

Hot melt still works for me.  You're doing something wrong if your points are coming off.

2 pot epoxy dont come off ever untill ya heat with a blow tourch

Jeff....you have to take the temper out of the steel to get the critters off with epoxy 8^).  I'll keep the hot melt thank you.  

No George, been using epoxy for years, hot melt takes 2 or 3 seconds to turn loose with a torch, epoxy 5 or 6 seconds. No damage to a broadheads temper.

Eric and George,

I like both of you so I won't play favorites. Epoxy sucks!!... Did that help any?
 :bigsmyl:

As with any project involving adhesives, the bond will only be as good as the surface preparation.

When I do mine, I thoroughly degrease with acetone or laquer thinner, rough the surfaces to be bonded, then degrease again to remove any dust or grit.

(burning out residue in a ferrule can't be done... it just leaves burnt residue)

I like to use a combination of three or four sticks of brown hobby glue with one stick of Ferrultite... you get the improved tack of the Ferrultite and the shock absorbing traits of the softer hobby glue... and it's frugal.

I heat only the point being careful not to get blades on broadheads too hot. An old timer told me when I was young that heating only the point allows it to cool and shrink down aroung the taper.... not sure how valid that theory is, but it has worked for dang near 50 years.

Rotate to spread the glue evenly and quench in cold water.

Like I said, it works for me. Epoxy has it's advocates and that's fine with me.

thanks Eric i new i was on to a good thing with the epoxy like i said i dont have a problem with it any way its up to the individual as to what they  use good luck with what ever ya  use. may  the force be with you young string walker.  :readit:    :biglaugh:

One thing I have done a few time is shoot a new hot melt glued on broadhead into my McKenzie mountain goat kill section and have it turn loose. One sure has to dig out a large hole to retrieve it, you certainly can't leave it in there and risk hitting it with another arrow.

Epoxy doesn't suck in my opinion as I haven't had to dig a single broadhead out of my targets since I started using it.

Before I began using epoxy(I only shoot wood arrows)I degreased points, used every type of hot melt, cut threads inside my points, did everything to try to not loose a point. None of these things worked 100% of the time. I tried 5 min epoxy about 4 years ago and have had 100% of my points stay on no matter where I shoot them.

I didn't have any problems with hot melt when I shot aluminum. Of course this was BC (before carbon) so I don't have any experience to relate to its compatibility with this material..My statements apply only to my experiences after I switched to wood arrows exclusively.

I shot a 3D tournament today. I shot some CE arrows with 100gr. brass inserts that I had glued in with Titebond...2 failed. I had taken sandpaper and roughed up the inside of the shafts and then used alcohol to clean them out with befor gluing....?

Ethan

I have used hot melt and epoxy.  Never completely satisfied until I started shooting Magnus Stingers.  Problem solved.

Titebond is a wood to wood glue, never heard of it being used on non wood surfaces.

Sorry, it wasn't titebond...it was an epoxy that was recommended by the place that I bought the inserts.

A lot of helpful info. guys.I sure do appreciate it.This will be my first year going completely traditional and also my first year using traditional solid one-piece broadheads.So I'm having to learn a few more basics.


Thanks,
Ethan

We were at a shoot this weekend and my wife pulled out a field point stuck on her arrow that was lost in the target..You guessed it, it had been glued in with a hot melt.

The shooter that lost it probably was not to concerned as it only cost him a few cents to replace it.
There were open class shooters at this event shooting $25.00 arrows. It would have been very costly for them to have hit this lost point.


I stoped using melt glues after trying every type I could find, and never having sucess in retaining points in hard targets. Epoxy holds much better,and it will be apreciated by the guy behind you .

There is a range in Calgary that does not allow wood arrows any more because of all the lost points in their backstop and the damage they caused to the other shooters arrows.

Lost points is a real issue to others shooting at the targets after you leave. They spend lots of hard earned cash for often very expensive arrows and don't need to have their equipment destroyed so we can save pennies a shaft.

If you insist on using hot melts stick to your personal targets. The guy behind you will thank you.