Awhile back I posted this head to show how strong a forged & tempered head can be. Plus I was trying to come up with a strong haft connection by gluing a dowel rod inside a graphite shaft. Well at my R&D (Quebec Bear Quest II) Camp, this shaft & head proved to be almost indestructible. It was shot (inadvertently) through both sides of a steel pipe on a McKenzie target. It came out without a scratch and only needed a file re-sharpening. Plus three other forged heads tagged bears with pass thru shots.
It sure if fun to experiment with all the advise and info given on Trad Gang. I guess I'll now be shooting my own broadheads. Thanks for all your work Dr Ashby. Forged broadheads on bear hunt ranged from 225 to 300 grains...Doc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Broadheads/ForgedGrizzly003.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Broadheads/ForgedGrizzleyHeads016.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Quebec%20Quest%2008/QuebecQuest08049.jpg)
My personal Bear Tagger broadhead.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Quebec%20Quest%2008/QuebecQuest08097.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Quebec%20Quest%2008/QuebecQuest08001.jpg)
Rather impressive!
So, are you gonna have a booth at Denton? :bigsmyl:
That's purdy impressive, Doc!
Very nice heads. I really like those.
Very nice job Doc :thumbsup:
Hey Doc, I'd sure like to join team tippit and I've got an elk hunt - er, I mean a braodhead R&D business trip - planned for September.
There was a recent post with a picture of a WW stuck in an elk scapula. Bet a tippit 300 SB would have blown right through it!
A broadhead R&D business trip? :biglaugh: I need to schedule me one of those! And from the looks of the Tippit Head, I think the elk are in trouble.
Shaun, I'm always looking for a few good men...er ladies to for Team Tippit :D Doc
After seeing how well these heads work I'm looking forward to some R&D this September.
Thanks again Doc!
That pipe cutter head will be on my string all fall looking for some blood. Will report the outcome.
Thank you Jeff for the opportunity to be on team Tippit.
Allen
Bravo tippit! :archer:
Congrats Doc! I bet it was a great feeling of accomplishment to take your bear with a head you made.
CS
Someday I hope to be chosen for Team Tippit as first string tester to Jeff's screw in model.... ;)
You should have seen the damage done by those heads with no damage to the heads themselves...they are the equal to any conventional head on the market.
The "real" test would be on one of our Michigan whitetails shot from an all natural Dryad Bushwacker. I am willing to sacrifice my time for furthering hunting research.
I know the one you made me, Jeff...has tagged two hogs and is still razor sharp..just a strop and she's ready to go back in the quiver.
Im going to try for number 3 in 10 days or so!
Real nice heads Doc. If your looking for more field testers next year, put my name in the hat. I started on the osage last weekend, lots of shavings so far. I hope to have something shootable by spring.
That is right on, nice work.
Doctor Jeff,
Thanks again for the fine job on the Forged Heads for Bear Hunt.It worked like a dream !! I hope to arrow a Whitetail this fall and hog type creation in FEB at Pig-Gig !!
Keep up the good work.
After seeing your first post Doc I jump in and made some of my own with a few small changes.
No tange on mine, grizz 190 dimensions, left bevel. Some have been hefted some not.
Will be testing this fall on antelope,deer and hopefully elk.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES176.jpg)
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES183.jpg)
Jack, Great job! Do you have any close up pictures of your heads? Did you harden & temper them? Thanks...Doc
Doc, That's great bud!
I'm with JC in hoping Doc will develop a screw-in model.
WOW! :eek: Those are some nice heads!!!You do great work Doc! CK
Thanks Tippit
The closeups are not great still learning how to use a digial camera.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES182.jpg)
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES181.jpg)
I didnt heat treat them, something I would like to learn, and I believe you have a lot you could teach us.
Cutting them out with a dremmel tool heats them up so that I cant handle them but doesnt seem to have any effect on the hardness of the steel I am making them from (saw blades). Then wet grind in the bevel. Just cut out a 160gr from some banding steel a friend gave me, but there is a lot of rust on the steel and need to clean up some to see if the steel is still good and strong.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/broadheads/JACKSPICTURES156.jpg)
This one has not been blued yet
Jack,
Will banding steel make a good head? If so, I'm loaded with the stuff and can try making some myself.
I've used it on cartridge case blunts with good results, but never thought about making a hunting broadhead out of one.
Does it have to be heat treated?
Thanks,
Marvin
I would think the banding steel is too thin and would bend easily.
Marvin M
Im not sure yet. The steel like Fyrfyter43 says is malluable(?spelling). It is 2inch wide and almost as thick as the saw blade steel. I do not think it will be as stong as the saw steel, some testing to follow soon.
It may need to be tempered which I hope to learn how to do soon.
Tippit may be able to give better advice on banding steel. I used it because a friend gave it to me I prefer the saw blades so far. 5 bucks from just about anywhere and I can get 8 trade points from one blade.
My experience with old sawblades is that they hold one HECK of an edge but are faily brittle.
Has anyone else experienced the same thing?
That's what I was thinking, so was definitely interested when you said that.
I've cut triangles from it to add to cartridge case blunts. Seems to work well (haven't connected on a tree rat yet, but a direct hit on an oak held up well). I carry one or more of those with me all the time when roving in case of an opportunity.
What I use is a good high carbon steel that you can play around with to get a good strong but flexible head. Briefly to heat treat, you get the steel red-orange hot and quickly quench in oil for a very rapid cooling. This makes it very hard and brittle. Tempering is to re-heat at lower temperatures. The hotter you get the quenched steel--the softer it becomes. For a knife I like the edge to be fairly hard but that is too brittle for a broadhead. I'll temper my broadheads at 400-425F in an oven for 1-2 hours. You can file an edge but they are stronger for tip bending than regular broadheads...that's why the one head penetrated the steel pipe without bending or breaking. Kinda finding the sweet spot in not too hard to break or not too soft to bend. Go over to the hunting knives and there is plenty of posts on steel & heat treating...Doc
I dont use old saw blades but new. That way they have not been heated up repeatedly by use. They are not brittle as far as I can tell from shooting so far. Not into anything as hard as tippit has but they hold up to 3d, and hard packed dirt/rock of WY so far (few misses). No bending, chipping of edge and are holding edge well. May have to try and shoot a few into some wood and other materials for strenth testing.
So tippit it is heat to red-orange quench. Then temper in oven at 400-425 for two hrs. And if I like the feel of the steel as in when I resharpen after beveling I like the way the metal works with a file for sharping, can I just temper for bend strength or is that step even needed if I like the steel as is (not sure if I am saying this right). I will look thru the knife sectin
Thanks
Jack, If you like the way it holds an edged and it's strength now then stay with what you have. Certainly no need to bother any further. I'm just like to tinker when I'm forging so I try different temper hardness. Then try to destroy the blade or broadhead and see what works best for me...Doc
hey doc you done good nice heads :clapper: