This stuff heat reversible? Got an insert (in an aluminum) a touch short of all the way home.... Dang!
Open to other ideas too (except cutting)!
Yes, it is heat reversible. I had lots of trouble with it letting the inserts go and stopped using it.
It is supposed to be heat reversible, but I know it took the heat of Hades to get a bent adapter out of a broadhead. Ruined the head in fact.
My son shoots carbons and I've used it for his point inserts and we've had the opposite problem, of them pulling out.
I'm done with the stuff. I've gone back to epoxy for those type glue applications. I use Ferr-L-Tite for most stuff though.
Yeah, I tried Powerbond...never again. I too had issues with inserts coming loose in carbons (they had been scored with a .270 bronze brush, and cleaned with acetone).
I also made up some 250 grain hex blunts to match my field point and broadhead weight. I glued 175 grain hex heads on 75 grain steel adapters using Powerbond. In one round of the Muzzy course at Whittingham this year I had 3 of them come apart. When they did, I found that the Powerbond never fully cured. (I had made them up at least a month before Whittingham.)
I had used it for a couple years and I never used it according to the instructions. When I read the bottle and did what it said it worked great. IMO it is better than any epoxy I have used.
It is heat reversible,at least when used on alloy shafting where you can use more heat than I'm willing to subject carbons to.As far as bond strength is concerned,in my own experience with any adhesive on any material,the key is 'PROPER PREPARATION'combined with controlled curing conditions,at least as far as ambient temp is concerned.When ya grow up out in the middle of nowhere,you learn to make friends with JB Weld & bailing wire! :bigsmyl: and like deerman said,if all else fails,read the directions!(maybe not as challenging,but way less frustrating)
I use Bohning Powerbond on all my carbons and haven't had an insert come out yet.The key is proper prep.I don't like to apply heat to any carbons,I use the knocker method to remove inserts from carbons.Where you slide a drill bit or steel rod in from the nock end and whip the shaft toward the floor.If they won't come out that way I just leave alone or sell them if they don't fit my needs.
I know you're not asking about adhesives but if you were I'd say that J-B Weld works.. I've never had a failure with it..