Yep, its me again. "Long Draw" BobW..(32+").we have discussed this a bit before, but I finally was able to secure the components I need..
Looking to add over an inch (maybe 2) to my uncut carbon shafts. Original idea was to foot with aluminum, and use the aluminum shaft's insert, butting the insert against the carbon shaft. Problem is this only will give me maybe 3/4" more arrow. With this, though, I can use the PDP system to up my point weight. I need 225-300 up front for my Heritage 250's.
So, to get more length, I was thinking of putting a spacer, such as a cut off piece of carbon shaft in the footing between the aluminum insert and the carbon shaft. The aluminum foot would extent an inch or two over the shaft. The hollow carbon cut-off would allow me to use the PDP weights.
Sound solid enough? Any other thoughts? I had also been considering a wooden dowel, but trying to get weight correct or fit issues concern me.
anyone?
I would say put together with epoxy this should work. I added 2 " by just adding shafting over the carbon and they turned out ok . Drew
Drew:
No issues without it butted soundly together? You are giving me hope!
I would say just put one together and put it through a torture test. Sounds like it would work but you never know till you try. Wish I had that problem myself.... Shortdraw Lewis (26.5"). LOL
You can add length to your shaft with broken arrows you might have lying around..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/VanTX/Arrow%20Making%20Tools/SinglePointJigWeb.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/VanTX/Arrow%20Making%20Tools/Footings.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/VanTX/Arrow%20Making%20Tools/AfterGluingUp.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/VanTX/Arrows/OBArrow2small.jpg)
You can use the Reparrow system also
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/VanTX/Arrows/FootingDeadheads500.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/VanTX/Arrows/BeforeAfter500.jpg)
I do this all the time to fix arrows that have broken off at the tip. It will work equally well to increase length of a new full length shaft :wavey: I've also lengthened aluminum and fiberglas shafts using this technique.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/VanTX/Arrow%20Making%20Tools/Splice2.jpg)
There's all sorts of things you can do to arrows with a bit of imagination, a belt/disc sander and a few homemade jigs made from scrap ;-) ...Van
I would epoxy an aluminum piece inside the carbon and than epoxy another piece over the whole thing. Shawn
Hey Van, is that blood I see in the bottom picture? Did you hurt yourself? Gary
Probably, but I'm tough :bigsmyl: ...Van
Bob,
I'm kinda thinking along the same lines you are. I have a dozen 31" Carbon express CX200's that I couldn't sell last year..... I'm thinking about getting a blunt or a field point ground flat (should be worth at least 100 grains, and maybe a brass or steel spacer inside the aluminum footing using golf club epoxy. Figure that the aluminum shaft, the field\\blunt, and the spacer weight will be about 150 grains... add the broad head and you have near 300 grains or so on the front end when it's done.
Figure that everything will be butted up tight and epoxied so it shouldn't be an issue. I'm looking to get up around 33" nock to BOP.
Well, the first one went "okay" with the exception of not getting the insert fully seated - grrrrrr. Ended up tapping the back of the aluminum insert (for the aluminum foot shaft), and installed the PDP weights using lock-tite. Used Power Bond to attach the footing. Actually used the 50g PDP weight as the stop point since it doesn't fit in the Heritage 250. Used 2" of lap on the shaft, and 2" of extension. Only problem is that I "built" for the wrong bow and I miss-calculated my tip weight significantly (needed 50, built for 100, ended up 125 (forgot weight of footing). Arrow flies "good" but is 8" low at 15-18 yards. Need to change fletch to see how it flies on the other (stronger) bow..... grrrrrrrr!
Bob,
What draw weight are you looking to set these arrows up for... Gonna need to go through this myself in a little while and it might give me a bit of a head start...
Steve:
Keep in mind, this is all based on my Heritage 250's and a 32"+ draw. The arrow shaft dynamics become quite interesting.....
My 56#@32 ChekMate Crusader likes 225-250 up front. The 4" of footing, and the Easton insert (31g) and 20g of PDP weights gives me 100 grains of tip. From there I will be trying a 125 g Magnus 2-blade.
For my 59#@32 Shrew, I am at 250-300g of tip. Thinking my original set-up of a 145 Eclipse 2-blade and 75 g steel (the good ones, not 3-R's)adapter may be too much with the 100g foot. Got to try it out though. May drop down to the 125 Eclipse or Magnus 2-blade w/ 75 steel adapter, and/or drop the 10 to 20 grains of PDP weight.
Got some (junk) WW's that I may play with too....
Problem is that when I glue up my footings, there isn't much I can "un-do". Gets costly with mistakes.....