Maybe I am Lazy and Maybe i dont want to take feathers off any of my dozen gold tips.
Here is my setup
Chuck Jones osage Royale 68" 55-57# at my long draw of 31"
GT 5575 classics
shooting 200 gr BH or FT.
To get the total arrow weight I want i am adding rope in the arrows total arrow around 600 grains.
Tired of messing with the rope and wanting a litttle more FOC, (we all know why) I was going to go with 260 gr BH and FT.
I am wondering if my arrows will be too weak now, i shoot them full length 33"
I had some old wood arrows and they were too underspined and I had terrible flight, The carbons now fly great, to the naked eye.
I have never bare shaft tested.
Now I am wondering do I need to because I am adding the weight or should I regardless??
I have read past posts and I get alot of " the same carbon arrows shoot great out of three different bows" and I read "trim off 1/4" at a time until they are tuned."
How can they be so far apart?
One says it is a universal arrow almost, to the other end of trimming itty bits at a time.
Is 260 head going to be too much?
Do I have to bare test to be sure?
Thanks,
Lash
No,if you're happy w/ the results.Bareshaft tuning works best 4 me and would definately be a way to see the spine of your arro w/ a 260gr point.Also,the more fletching on a arro the quicker they recover.IMO, why so many wood arrosmiths build w/ 5 1/2'' high back feathers.
The "naked eye" is a great tool! Try the new heads and if your arrows seem to wobble a lot, hack some off. I would guess 1/2" would compensate for the extra 60 grains. But first try them and see if they still look good to you. If so, leave em alone.
Carbon arrows out of bows with a close to center cut shelf are extremely forgiving. Carbon "recovers" much faster than wood from the archers paradox (bending when the string pushes from the back of the arrow against the weight of the point).
Waste of time.
Shooting a lot of fletch can hide tuning problems. I prefer to bareshaft so I know they are right on. Do you have to bareshaft? no, but if you want the best tune I think you do. It is not hard to strip the feathers off of one arrow to check and keep a bareshaft to check things out occasionally.
Old habits being what they are, I never bareshaft. I won't say I never will but I have yet to discern a real need. I can pretty much tell whether my arrows are flying like they need to. Any extra is superfluous to me. Can't argue that bareshafting is the "gold standard" but there are plenty of guys that don't as well. IMO carbons are more forgiving but then my bows are center shot/ cut past center and that has alot to do with it. Only you can determine what is right for you. Try tuning fletched, and if you don't like it or are not satisfied strip the feathers off and go again.
I love bareshafting, but if its not convienient that just shoot at 30-35yards and see how they are flying. Put some BH's on and see if they are hitting way to the left or right. That will tell ya the same thing.
Paper tuning can tell you whether or not our arrows are flying cleanly off the bow. Hang a sheet of newspaper about 3 ft in front of your target and shoot thru the paper. If everything is perfect, there will be a single hole with tears from the fletching. If the arrow is flying a bit crooked, there will be a tear with the fletch tears at one end. It's pretty easy to figure how the arrow was flying and what it means, spine and nock point wise.
Shooting broadheads will tell you a lot, too. Mount some vertical and some flat.
The reason you hear different things from different people is because of their different personalities and definitions of GOOD.
Western States Rendevous last weekend-it rained. I have my arrows bareshafted and when the rain took the feathers down to nearly flat, I was still shooting. Really good flight-not perfect but really good. Feathers cover a lot of errors that could have possibily been corrected. That said, do what ever you think you need to do. Make yourself happy first
I think I will give the paper test a go first, Should i also paper test with broadheads?
Question: Can I foot about 4" and get the same results as the added weight? I am at about 25 grains every two inches i think. I will make sure, but before I buy some 250 gr tips I wonder if this will give me the same result? I suppose ons sacrificial arrow to bare shaft test isnt too bad.
What is the best link/site on bare shaft testing.
I hear OL has one??
Nice Kudu Katman!!!!
Thanks for your help, that is great
A trick that works in pinch...wrap fletching with Saran wrap or whatever its called...lol The wrap will make the feathers ineffective and give close to the same results as bareshafting
QuoteOriginally posted by Red Armed Panther:
Waste of time.
It would only be a waste of time if you do not have a clear understanding of the methods and objectives of bare shaft tuning. I use it to get as near perfect tune as possible so that I don't need to reli on a huge ball of feathers to correct minor form or release errors.
Steve
I will bareshaft, think it does help. But something I do not understand is do you go back and use paper again after you have fletched your arrows??
I always have as that is how the arrow hunts. To me bareshaft tuning helps "feather/fletching" tuning afterwards. You know the base is good, now you have a foundation to build off of. Just my .02
Yes it is worth the time.
J
opinions differ thats for sure. I think it is a waste of time also. And something I'd like to add is not spending money on 12 of the exact same arrows if one is concerned with bareshafting.
i like ol adcocks method best
No. You don't have to, but you do need to start with a logical spine accuracy to begin with. A paper test will work fine too. Over the years I've come to know instinctively (did I say that 8^)) what will work for my bows, and I have acquired accuracy enough to shoot Class A instinctive field rounds and yes, good arrow flight to boot. A little common sense will go a long way toward tuning.
Almost no one bareshafted until the carbons came along and required more work. Then someone opened the book and saw it was a good way to narrow down spine quickly. Frankly, I think you change the dynamics very quickly as soon as you add fletching that it is nearly null.
I know guys who do it religiously and that's cool with me; confidence is everything. But I'm with old Sam Fadala....it just ain't always necessary 8^).
One thing I was going to mention is bareshaft is an important tool, but has its limitations. I use it mainly to get me close.
Where the rubber meets the road is how your arrows hit to where your aiming. If your hitting right constantly, you have to ask if its your form or weak spined. And if you hitting left constantly, ask the same.
I highly suggest BH tuning, it tells you alot. And if yoru a hunter, this is what is important.
BH tuning will give you the best results and bare shaft tuning will get you verry close. You will get good arrow flight with either. I do not like paper tuning my self. I have seen too many times (with long bow and compound) where I got a "bullet hole" with an out of tune arrow and a tear with an arrow that was tuned. Steve
if they shoot good bare shaft,why waste the feathers,,jeff
Rod gave a great suggestion with the Saran wrap...would have never thought of that. That's why i come to this site.
Randy
I vote bareshaft, but I think it's kinda fun. I keep one wood, one aluminum and one carbon to play with using different point weights. The carbon and alum. have a cap wrap, but obviously no feathers. It's pretty cool to see the effects of different point weights on different arrows. I haven't tried paper tuning, but probably should just for curiousity. Guess the most important thing for me, though, is to put my first arrow where I want to.
I have a friend who doesn't bareshaft...........
he's starting to grow hair on his palms and his vision isn't what it used to be!!!!!!
:) :) :) :) :) :) HEE hee...
Me, I am a bareshaft planner (per OL's directions which can be found on A&H's website).
Good luck,
Jim
What is a good way to add the weight up front before buying the points.
can I foot a piece of aluminum where I need the weight ?
I can dab a little hot melt to hold it in place.
would 4" of footed aluminun effect spine other than the weight?
I can see the benefits of bare shaft tuning for target points, but:
I've never understood how anyone could think that having perfect flight from a bare shaft with a field point would have anything to do with perfect flight from a fletched shaft with a broadhead. It's a guess at best the effects on flight that the fletching and broadhead would have over and above the bare shaft with field point. You may come close, but the only way to find the best flight is by loosing arrows with the same fletching and broadhead you hunt with.
I'm of the opinion that when you do find that sweet spot with feathers and broadhead, most any other point in that weight range will fly great as well. I do not think this is possible (outside of blind luck) when you put the cart before the horse.
Daddy Bear
QuoteOriginally posted by Daddy Bear:
I've never understood how anyone could think that having perfect flight from a bare shaft with a field point would have anything to do with perfect flight from a fletched shaft with a broadhead.
Sort answer: Because it works.
If I bareshaft tune my bow, fletched arrows with broadheads of the same weight as my field points will impact the same group as my target arrows.
I agree 100% with Jason.
In fact I will go one further. If your arrows are tuned properly to your bow, you can shoot broadheads with a bare shaft. Now, a VERY, VERY accomplished hunter/archer told me this and I was skeptical...I went home and tried it. One very slight nock adjustment later, I was hitting exactly what I wanted at 20 yards with my bare carbons and BIG Snuffers.
The "old" guys with an open mind at our club that I have shown how to bare shaft are amazed with the flight they get now.
Another interesting fact...my bare shaft tuned arrows shoot great paper tuning holes. Different method, same results.
So, that was the long way of saying you don't HAVE to, but why not invest an hour and KNOW you are right rather than guess?
I am with Jason, once my arrows are finely tuned using OL's bareshaft method (although I go out to 30 yds) the broadheads hit with field points.
Lashbow, if you put a long piece of aluminum shaft on the carbon you may increase the dynamic spine by having a shorter working arrow. I have footed with 3/4" on the axis but since it does not extend past the brass hit insert it does not stiffen the arrow but slightly weakens it by adding weight (very little weakening). Get the points they are pretty inexpensive at 3 rivers.
QuoteOriginally posted by Daddy Bear:
Attempts to obtain consistent flight with a bare shafted arrow w/ a broadhead is not aerodynamically sound. The broadhead will act as a wing without the stability of fletching on the back end. Most would be hard pressed obtaining good results shooting arrows from a machine using that method much less shooting a stickbow off-hand.
It is moot how well the field pointed bare shaft flies from your hunting bow since the intended end result is to use a broadhead and fletching on game. In addition, adding the fletching to the rear of your bare shaft will change the arrows FOC and the weight will change the resulting paradox (stiffness/weakness). Changing from a field point to a hunting broadhead can result in the same changes to the front end as many hunting broadheads have their weight distributed differently over the length of the head as compared to a standard point of the same weight.
No matter how you estimate any changes in flight due to the changes made from a field pointed bare shaft to a fletched/broadhead hunting arrow, it would be a guess at best. The only way to confirm any proper flight is to actually loose the completed hunting arrow at a distance to confirm groups. I'm of the opinion that 20 or even 30yards is on the short end of such tests. I prefer at least 40 to 50yards as a good bench mark. I'm a firm believer in choosing the broadhead for the game you seek and then building the arrow around that broadhead. Once you confirm the desired flight at a distance, it is rather simple to find the same flight from a field point, judo, bludgeon, tiger claw, etc. That is how I skin this cat.
later
Daddy Bear
My thoughts on bare shafting are this; I don't think that there are very many people that can shoot a traditional bows consistently enough for it to work. I started shooting bows in 1981 seriously and from what I remember bare shaft tuneing started with the advent of short compounds and using releases. One comment that has always stuck in my mind was made by Paul Brunner and it makes a lot of sense! You don't hunt with a featherless arrow so why tune with one or words to that effect. I have always just eyeballed my arrow flight or had someone else look over my shoulder with excellent results. One time just to see what all the fuss was about I stripped the feathers off of a perfectly good arrow to see if it would group with the feathered ones and it did right out to 30 yards. Maybe I don't have a consistent enough release or it is because I shoot wood arrows but I have never seen a need to bare shaft and I have also never had a problem with poor arrow flight with broadheads or shooting through a lot of critters but like many other things there are 10 different ways to skin a cat! Joseph
One thing to remember is FORM. If your form and release is crappy. Bare shaft shooting is a BIG waste of time. You must have good form and a good consistent release. BILL
Gotta agree with bullfrog
For a beginner bareshafting most likly will be a waste of time since form has not yet developed
It is a good tool that works,it can also be confusing if your unknowingly getting a bounce off the shelf for whatever reason.When bareshafts fly well with fletched shafts you can bet your BH's will be in there too
OK do ya hafta LOL No I'd say a big nonvented 2 blade like the magnus2 1.5" wide ones will tell ya plenty without bareshafting.Your still using the planing method except your letting the BH steer.Impact adjustments between FP's and BH's are the same as they would be for bareshafting.
That last method is also in OL Adcocks tuning page
Good luck
Bareshafting is not some zen mystery that requires a quiet mind and flawless form. I'm an average shot on most days, and I can flat tell the difference in flight on a GT5575 shooting 145 vs. 200. The 145 shoots way too stiff and to shoot them I can see that I need weighted inserts or the 200 grain point. I can sure see the 70-75 Douglas firs hit the target almost sideways because they're too weak, but the 80-85's shoot great. I can shoot all these setups fletched, but why should I use less than optimal arrows for my bow? Bareshafting just gives me more confidence that I'm shooting the best arrow for my setup, and I like that confidence. It's not a mystery, nor is it that hard to do. It can sometimes take a bit of trial and error, but you can always sell those extra arrows that are too stiff or weak right here. Once you find what works best, stock up.
Oh yeah..and if you don't bareshaft, then you're not traditional! Just kiddin', :p
I have used a type of bareshaft tuning and it is great for getting you close without having to be a good shot or have great form (works for everyone).
First set the brace height to what is recomended for your bow, set nock hight to 4/8 or 5/8" and make sure your nocks fit the string (not to tight). The brace height and nock height can be fin tuned later.
Now, get a target with a consistent medium such as a layered block target or foam target that is not shot up. Stand 5 to 10 yds away and shoot into the target. If your arrows stick into the target sideways with the nock to the left (for a right hand shooter) your arrows are too week. if they are nock to the right your arrows are too stiff. when they are close they will drive into the target straight.
As far as the question "do I have to bareshaft??" No, you don't but you do have to tune somehow!! Not tuning your arrows to your bow is like not balencing the tires on your car. Steve
Almost forgot if ya do end up tuning using BH's to tune it could end up costing you more in the end than if ya just stripped one down in the first place unless your extra careful to shoot at differnt spots LOL
I never was a believer until I tried it. Once I tried it I was amazed at how well it allowed me to tune an arrow to the bow. It's very cool to watch a bare shaft fly deadnuts straight to the target from 30 yards. Just add feathers and voila....no excuses for bad arrow flight.
From what I've seen most of the people that tell you bareshafting is a waste of time shoot either wood or aluminum.
If someone has enough experience shooting trad with wood and aluminum,they can probably just pick an arrow that will work fine.
Carbon however is a different story.With basically 3 shaft sizes to pick from they need to be tuned by length or point weight.If a guy doesn't have the experience to know how to get close with thoes limitations,bareshafting is a great tool.
There is no magic "bullet"...
Sacrifice one of your broadheads and shoot it into a steel plate at 10 yards :eek:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/osminski/FMJ1-2.jpg)
and if it looks like this when you are done, you are close enough to tuned
Since I dont have my 250 field tips yet, if I bareshaft test with my current setup of 200 grain tips and it shoots the same as my feathers, does that mean the 250 grain will make it too weak, or is there a sweet spot that has a broader spectrum?
QuoteOne thing to remember is FORM. If your form and release is crappy. Bare shaft shooting is a BIG waste of time. You must have good form and a good consistent release
Not true if you use the method outlind by OL and A&H. The reason for comparing BS groups to fletched is to factor in the inconsistancies. really well explained on OL's site for those who care to read it carefully. Only a waste of time if you do not invest the time to understand it.
Steve
My setup now is perfect
Bare shafts are just a little low at 15 Yards
My Broadheads flew same as my tips to 30 yards or more when practicing.
I am guessing another 50 grains I will be a little weak, Maye trim 1/4 to 1/2 " But I need all the arrow I got.
Maybe I reconsider the change in the first place I am trying to get my FOC up a bit more.
If I add aquarium tube I am up to 725 grains, But according to the doctor, I would be better off at 650 graind with 5% better FOC.
Decisions,decisions
my bareshaft method is to use a bareshaft and eyeball the bareshaft in flight. See if it is nock right or left up or down and make changes from there. I only need one bareshaft this way. As soon as the bareshaft is shooting a tad towards weak spine, I fletch and BOOM, shooting like frickin' lazer beams.
You're splitting hairs IMO,
If you got it shooting a 500+gr arro clean,you're good to go.
Go shoot have some fun.....overbo nailed it now your splitting hairs
I'm guessing that ya went and stripped one down or at least saraned it like was suggested.If ya did strip one down may I suggest that you leave it that way for a while and slip it in during your practice sessions.Bareshafts will tell you when you form is slipping....commonly we start short drawing or not maintaining back tension thru the shot assuming ofcourse that your/we are to that point that we are doing that LOL ,maintainig tension thru the shot that is and yes it does effect flight and impact.A BS slippied in for practice on a regular basis will let ya know if your slipping
I'll post my results and maybe a few of ya'll will look at in the future and help you out.
I decided to take a small length of airline tubing and fill it with lead shot, about a 2" piece. i wrapped it in tape and rammed it from the nock end towards the inset. now I have my 260 grains up front.
i wrapped my feathers to get a bareshaft and started shooting at 12yards. I could tell nothing different and was hitting my arrows almost. I moved back to 20 yards, my group was not as tight but the bareshaft arrow was in with the rest. GREAT!!
I glued up some broadheads, 100 grain steel with a 160 grizzley, spun until true ,cooled it, and shot it(fletched) flew like a homing pigeons, i can hit a three inch circle nicely with the blades.
I am ready to hunt and I have 22.3% FOC and a 597 grain arrow. I like the 650 grain area, but as you wise ones told me, were talking feathers now.
The thing I dont get is that my 200 grain setup bareshafted the same, I am surprised that another 50 graing didnt effect the results, at least with what i could tell.
I hope someone else will learn from my experience and to everyone who added to it a great thatnk you to you and I hope to post a first BIG game trad kill in the fall
Happy hunting
Lash
Not sure if you HAVE to.
Im learning from here and written material, and was under the immpression that i HAD to.
I'm glad i did. My arrow flight is great, and my confidence better for it.
Not to mention it is fun.
Good point, to answer my question do you have to, well In my case i made no adjustments, so technically no I didn't.
But I am glad I did, now i am more confident in my setup
I think arrowsbykelly.com (foxfire) still has a pretty effective way of tuning using only fletched broadheads. Those guys are all strong believers that bareshafting is a waste of time.
I always had bad luck bareshafting but it was because I always shot long arrows with too little weight up front. I would shoot three and they would all go different directions!
I found I prerequisite to flawless arrow flight in any case is having plenty of weight up front. That way all the physics of shooting an arrow works works the way it should.
after all of this...don't forget the turbolater!
Never bareshafted in my life.
Hmmmmmmmm.........
Yeah, biggie, but from lookin at yer avatar, you dang near are bare-somethin'n :eek: :rolleyes: :knothead:
I don't bare shaft.. Fletch them up and start shooting a broadhead!!! Tune your brain and your arrows with broadheads attached. When a broadhead flies true so will a field point.
I shoot only broadheads all year for practice. I don't hunt with a field point. This makes it hard to go shoot indoor league or any 3d courses. But then again I am a bowhunter; not a target shooter.
John III
You cut a carbon off too short and it's about impossible to get good flight out of them. Without bareshafting I wasted a lot of money. I'm a believer.
Anything an archer can do to give them more confidence in themselves and their equipment is basically going to be beneficial.
Any kind of tuning in some form or another is something most of us all do. Some of us just want to be more precise about it.
Some archers just pick arrows based on spine charts, set their nock point, set brace height, fletch the arrows and if if everything appears to be flying well and hitting where they are aiming...it's all good. Nothing wrong with that one bit...if they are satisfied with the results.
While others...like myself...also bareshaft tune at long distance, paper tune with fletching and/or broadhead tune for nothing less than perfect arrow flight.
I also often use a bareshaft in my practice sessions to work on form. It can also be a great practice aide.
During typical hunting situations there isn't as great of a need for precision arrow flight when compared to tournament competitions...but something a hunter should keep in mind...is that a more perfectly tuned arrow will out penetrate an arrow that isn't as well tuned.
Ray ;)
QuoteDuring typical hunting situations there isn't as great of a need for precision arrow flight when compared to tournament competitions
You kinda came back and justified this statement but I want to reiterate that it is MORE important to have precision arrow flight in hunting situations. Targets don't bleed, critters do and the straighter that arrow is at impact, the better penetration you will achieve.
QuoteOriginally posted by Biggie Hoffman:
...I want to reiterate that it is MORE important to have precision arrow flight in hunting situations. Targets don't bleed, critters do and the straighter that arrow is at impact, the better penetration you will achieve.
Preach on Brudda Biggie! :readit:
I tried bareshafting for the first time the other day with my beman ics bowhunters from about 15 yards. I shot 3 arrows and two of them broke on impact with my carboard box filled with vizqueen. sp? I will never do it again. Don't know if I did something wrong or what but I don't really care. Who cares what they fly like without feathers when normally the arrows have feathers on them. The arrows I shot said nock point was high, but they couldn't fly any straighter with 5" shield cut feathers
Biggie,
I totally understand your concern and believe in your values regarding taking a life...which is one of the reasons why I precision tune my equipment the way I do.
An arrow that needs minor tuning for perfect arrow flight in a hunting situation will still perform to the degree it needs to to make a kill if the archer places it within the large kill zone. The deer won't be any more dead with a more perfectly tuned arrow than with one that was killed by a slightly less than perfectly tuned arrow.
I believe the real issue of most concern is when arrows are so mismatched to the bow and the archer that it greatly effects accuracy and penetration at hunting distances.
The accuracy required to hit a paper plate or the kill zone of a deer is not the same as trying to hit the 5 ring on a NFAA 300 round or the gold at 90 meters.
That same arrow that isn't perfectly tuned but more than capable of killing a deer can score a 4 on the NFAA 300 target or in the red at 90 meters when a more precisionally tuned arrow would have gotten a 5 or the gold.
That is why I believe the degree of tuning I'm discussing has more of an effect on the desired result and becomes more important...but I totally understand where you are coming from.
Ray ;)
Cool :-)
as far as the 300 rounds and the gold dots and 5 rings, I have no idea what you're talking about so I would be remiss to try and compare those things to bowhunting.
You're too smart for me.....
No...you don't have to. I've only done it once with woodies, and I've never had flight problems or penetraition problems.
That is not a slam on someone who does though, so don't read that into what I said.
Thanks for making it clear Biggie that's its more important to the hunters, that actually kill stuff, than to the target archers that just type.
Biggie,
I'm definitely not to smart for you. If anything...I'm just more experienced when comparing target accuracy and bowhunting accuracy...since you have stated you have no idea what I'm talking about in regards to some target archery competitions...that's all.
It isn't meant as a put down to you or anyone else or any indication of arrogance on my part.
I've just personally experienced what it takes to achieve consistant accuracy under specific target competitions and the difference in score when comparing perfectly tuned arrows and not so perfectly tuned arrows.
I also love bowhunting and have been witness to the effects of poorly tuned equipment, moderately tuned equipment and perfectly tuned equipment.
Nothing more...nothing less. I'm not trying to come off as a know it all. Just sharing my personal experiences.
Ray ;)
Since I've stopped over 2 decades worth of dedicated freestyle fingers recurve target archery (NAA, FITA, NFAA), I no longer have a need to do any bareshaft testing. IMO, the differences between the two disciplines - target archery and trad bowhunting - are clear and plentiful. Just the static target archer's shooting form alone is no comparison to the dynamic shooting form required when hunting - and form alone will affect arrow flight. Then consider the tackle and the shooting distances and the locations and the climate and on and on. Personally, I want a heavy hunting arrow to be as stable and direct as possible as it clears the riser, and bareshafting can be almost counter-productive ... for me. YMMV.
Unfortunately, as Rob states, the differences in shooting the target, be it 3d or what have you, and shooting the intended game is literally dynamically different. Try as you might there is no perfect release in hunting. Luckily you dont have to be perfect, just good enough to hit the intended target perfectly. Ill wager the vast majority of bows are more accurate than we can shoot them whether it is with a bareshaft or a fletched one. Assuming your set up is tuned properly of course. That is part of it you know. Yune your set up the right way then you can build yourself in a margin of error such as release flaws, target panic, etc.
Ray, never saw any sign of arrogance in your posts. Appreciate the information.
Widoweater, you're definately right about the bows being more accurate than we can ever shoot them. Dan Quillen and I did hours of testing with a "shooting machine" he'd built when he was designing bows. Any bow we clamped into the test machine would shoot 5 arrows touching @ 20 yards.
That's why trad bowhunting is so much fun. When you add the human equation(sp) it's no longer an exact science!
That's also one of the reasons why I personally tune my equipment to the degree I do.
I believe a perfectly tuned arrow is going to be more forgiving of minor form descrepencies than an arrow way out of tune.
I practice with a bareshaft under different situations such as a reverse cant, shooting from the knee, shooting with the bow straight up and down, etc. etc. to practice maintaining my form in regards to shoulder and arm alignment under those conditions.
Yes...some people may believe that guys like me are being anal about it...and that's OK. I personally don't have any problem with any archer who doesn't take tuning to the level I do. It's just a preference thing.
I just personally feel more confident in my equipment when I set it up to shoot it at the best of my ability under the conditions I will be shooting it in. Confidence in your self and your equipment plays a huge roll in our accuracy. Do whatever makes you feel confident.
Like I said...as long as your equipment is at least somewhat tuned...most bowhunters will do just fine.
Ray ;)
The best case for bareshafting I've seen is usually with new archers straight from a compound.I've seen guys that thought they had great arrow flight with way over spined arrows.
Apparently they couldn't see the same problems I could untill we took off the feathers.I've seen guys say they had great flight but the same bareshaft would turn sideways at 20 yards.It took a bareshaft to prove to some of them they had the wrong spine shaft.
I totaly agree with R H Clark. A lot of people just don't know how bad the tune is on their setup. It sounds like this is the problem that broll89 just had when he tried to bareshaft. broll89, if you are breaking bare shafts at 15yds then your setup is way out of tune. Steve
With out reading any of these posts the answer is "heck no". Ten thousand generations of humans fed themselves with arrow shot game and I guaran-darn-tee none of them was so anal so bareshaft tune!
We all want the best flight we can get from our arrows.The say it is more than one way to skin a cat and the same applies to tuneing.They all work and how well they work depends on who is doing it and what works best or easiest for them.No you do not have to barshaft tune or paper tune.I do both at times with carbon arrows I hunt with.I seldom do with wood arrows.With woods I stick on a broadhead,back up 40 or 50yds and see what it needs to shoot down the middle and adjust centershot or change spines untill I get there.There is no best way or only way in archery for about anything.The goal is to get to results that work for you and you can live with. :) jmo
Bare shaft tuning is very helpful for another reason that has not been stated here. If your shooting suddenly goes to crap a person can spend many hours/days trying to figure out whether its the bow tune or shooting problems that are causing it. Well if you have previously tuned your bow to bare shaft perfectly then all you need do is grab that bare shaft and take a shot to see what's going on. Its very helpful in diagnosing issues since it exaggerates them and makes them more easy to spot.